Hi.
There is quite a bit of information available online, but it hasn’t really provided clear answers. The statement from the contractor is understandably “it’s fine.”
The adjustable screws were driven through the vapor retarder, meaning there is always a gap of between 0 and 20mm (0 to 0.8 inches) between the battens and the rafters or collar beam. No counter-battening was installed.
I’m just concerned whether this might cause problems for us in many years. Are there any experiences related to this? No blower door test was performed. Could that provide clarity?
Thank you
There is quite a bit of information available online, but it hasn’t really provided clear answers. The statement from the contractor is understandably “it’s fine.”
- Collar beam or rafters
- Wood fiber insulation between them
- Moisture-variable vapor retarder
- Battens installed using adjustable screws
- Gypsum board
The adjustable screws were driven through the vapor retarder, meaning there is always a gap of between 0 and 20mm (0 to 0.8 inches) between the battens and the rafters or collar beam. No counter-battening was installed.
I’m just concerned whether this might cause problems for us in many years. Are there any experiences related to this? No blower door test was performed. Could that provide clarity?
Thank you
Hello,
I am currently dealing with the same question, although I am still in the planning phase. My ideas:
a) Apply a highly elastic tape at the future penetration points of the adjustment screws to prevent the membrane from fraying or tearing.
b) Nail or screw thin rectangular battens onto the rafters and membrane first, then install the supporting wooden battens on top. This way, the membrane lies flush, and the adjustment screws penetrate the rectangular battens, which serve as a sealing surface.
By the way: What benefit does the blower door test bring you once everything is installed?
I am currently dealing with the same question, although I am still in the planning phase. My ideas:
a) Apply a highly elastic tape at the future penetration points of the adjustment screws to prevent the membrane from fraying or tearing.
b) Nail or screw thin rectangular battens onto the rafters and membrane first, then install the supporting wooden battens on top. This way, the membrane lies flush, and the adjustment screws penetrate the rectangular battens, which serve as a sealing surface.
By the way: What benefit does the blower door test bring you once everything is installed?
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