Proposal Isover, U=0.197
Hello everyone,
I recently purchased a house built in 1963 and now want to insulate the roof structure. (currently no insulation, just plastered bamboo mats)
The roof structure consists of rafters measuring 130x100mm (5x4 inches), with a cross battens and concrete tiles on top.
Step 1: (current -> target: Energy Saving Ordinance)
- Insulation between rafters
- Insulation under rafters
- Interior finishing with drywall
Step 2: (in 3 years)
- Insulation above rafters (alternative to roofing boards)
- Replacement of roof tiles
Current limitations:
- Due to ceiling height in the first-floor living area, it is not possible to double the rafters (length of roof slope: 2.20m (7.2 ft))
- In the attic, doubling the rafters is generally possible (rafter length in attic to ridge: 3.10m (10.2 ft))
- Therefore, insulation between rafters is limited to max. 120mm (5 inches) with 10mm (0.4 inches) ventilation gap to battens/tiles
Current questions:
- I have planned ISOVER insulation based on the manufacturer’s recommendation – are there alternatives? (better, cheaper)
- Does anyone have experience with the variable vapor barrier "ISOVER Vario KM Duplex UV"? Alternatives? (better, cheaper)
- Can the insulation under the rafters be done with polystyrene? Reason: cheaper and easier to install
I have already planned the assembly as described on u-wert.net – what do you think?
Thanks in advance for your help,
Feder
Hello everyone,
I recently purchased a house built in 1963 and now want to insulate the roof structure. (currently no insulation, just plastered bamboo mats)
The roof structure consists of rafters measuring 130x100mm (5x4 inches), with a cross battens and concrete tiles on top.
Step 1: (current -> target: Energy Saving Ordinance)
- Insulation between rafters
- Insulation under rafters
- Interior finishing with drywall
Step 2: (in 3 years)
- Insulation above rafters (alternative to roofing boards)
- Replacement of roof tiles
Current limitations:
- Due to ceiling height in the first-floor living area, it is not possible to double the rafters (length of roof slope: 2.20m (7.2 ft))
- In the attic, doubling the rafters is generally possible (rafter length in attic to ridge: 3.10m (10.2 ft))
- Therefore, insulation between rafters is limited to max. 120mm (5 inches) with 10mm (0.4 inches) ventilation gap to battens/tiles
Current questions:
- I have planned ISOVER insulation based on the manufacturer’s recommendation – are there alternatives? (better, cheaper)
- Does anyone have experience with the variable vapor barrier "ISOVER Vario KM Duplex UV"? Alternatives? (better, cheaper)
- Can the insulation under the rafters be done with polystyrene? Reason: cheaper and easier to install
I have already planned the assembly as described on u-wert.net – what do you think?
Thanks in advance for your help,
Feder
@garfunkel
“So commercially available membranes definitely last a few decades.”
How do you know that?
I am not aware of any studies regarding their lifespan.
It would be important to find out in time whether the wood is still in good condition and whether any fungi have grown during that period.
Roof tiles are easy to inspect visually.
How do you check the installed thermal insulation?
Jochen
“So commercially available membranes definitely last a few decades.”
How do you know that?
I am not aware of any studies regarding their lifespan.
It would be important to find out in time whether the wood is still in good condition and whether any fungi have grown during that period.
Roof tiles are easy to inspect visually.
How do you check the installed thermal insulation?
Jochen
G
garfunkel1 Oct 2016 19:42As far as I know, there are sensors that can be installed within the insulation to at least monitor it to some extent.
It is also always beneficial to have a membrane that is at least somewhat transparent. This way, the initial condition of the insulation and the beams can be somewhat assessed.
Otherwise, there are few options for inspection.
If the membrane is no longer intact or a tape fails, you might notice a musty odor caused by fungi and/or mold.
Perhaps a blower door test is performed every few years. Based on this, it should be possible to get a reasonable idea of the condition. However, localized problems are not always reliably detectable with this method.
It is also always beneficial to have a membrane that is at least somewhat transparent. This way, the initial condition of the insulation and the beams can be somewhat assessed.
Otherwise, there are few options for inspection.
If the membrane is no longer intact or a tape fails, you might notice a musty odor caused by fungi and/or mold.
Perhaps a blower door test is performed every few years. Based on this, it should be possible to get a reasonable idea of the condition. However, localized problems are not always reliably detectable with this method.
spassig schrieb:
I read “at least somewhat,” “little,” “otherwise,” “maybe,” “should,” “not always so certain.”
Do you notice something?
JochenWhy do you ask in a layperson’s group if you want expert advice?
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