Hello everyone,
Below ground level, there are special collars for cables or pipes passing through exterior walls. But how does it work when you want to lead cables outside above ground level? For example, for exterior lighting or an outdoor socket for a terrace/balcony.
We are planning to install 18cm (7 inches) EIFS (mineral wool) insulation. Therefore, I am considering how electrical cables should be routed to the outside.
Below ground level, there are special collars for cables or pipes passing through exterior walls. But how does it work when you want to lead cables outside above ground level? For example, for exterior lighting or an outdoor socket for a terrace/balcony.
We are planning to install 18cm (7 inches) EIFS (mineral wool) insulation. Therefore, I am considering how electrical cables should be routed to the outside.
Oh, unfortunately, I also have many typos and grammar mistakes.
What is the best way to lead cables from inside to outside, ensuring it is also sealed? I think the most important area is where the cable passes through the insulation to the outside. That is, the insulation and exterior rendering/plaster should be done so that the insulation does not absorb water.
What is the best way to lead cables from inside to outside, ensuring it is also sealed? I think the most important area is where the cable passes through the insulation to the outside. That is, the insulation and exterior rendering/plaster should be done so that the insulation does not absorb water.
Leave this to the builder to ensure the warranty remains valid. If you make a mistake there, it could damage the wall (and yes, this does happen).
However, we did it ourselves after consulting with our timber construction company:
We drilled through from the inside for cables slightly larger than necessary. Then, on the inside of the 10cm (4 inch) solid wood wall, we sealed it thoroughly with cartridge sealant (later, just drywall was applied). This is NOT silicone but a permanent sealant. Silicone needs to be renewed over time. On the outside (before the external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS / external wall insulation) was installed), it was also sealed. Then the cables were routed into wind- and water-tight boxes in the insulation layer. The socket or lamp was then installed and finished. But we also sealed every single insulation anchor in the plaster for lamps, etc., separately with cartridge sealant (pre-drill the hole, fill with sealant, insert the anchor fully until the sealant slightly oozes out). Work carefully! A tiny hole of just 1mm² (0.0015 square inches) can already allow enough water to penetrate.
However, we did it ourselves after consulting with our timber construction company:
We drilled through from the inside for cables slightly larger than necessary. Then, on the inside of the 10cm (4 inch) solid wood wall, we sealed it thoroughly with cartridge sealant (later, just drywall was applied). This is NOT silicone but a permanent sealant. Silicone needs to be renewed over time. On the outside (before the external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS / external wall insulation) was installed), it was also sealed. Then the cables were routed into wind- and water-tight boxes in the insulation layer. The socket or lamp was then installed and finished. But we also sealed every single insulation anchor in the plaster for lamps, etc., separately with cartridge sealant (pre-drill the hole, fill with sealant, insert the anchor fully until the sealant slightly oozes out). Work carefully! A tiny hole of just 1mm² (0.0015 square inches) can already allow enough water to penetrate.
It’s not always necessary to improvise, as there are several products specifically designed for this purpose: for example, from Eisedicht, and Kaiser also offers a range of sealing collars. They are sorted according to cable diameter and come as either single or double entries. With Eisedicht, you can also choose from different materials depending on whether you want to seal at the wall level or the insulation level (i.e., whether you intend to plaster over the seal).
i_b_n_a_n schrieb:
Then sealed on the inside (10cm (4 inches) solid wood wall) using plenty of cartridge sealant Do you still remember which cartridge sealant that was? Regarding water, sealing the exterior wall doesn't really make sense since no water should get behind the mineral wool anyway. The weak point would basically be the cable exit between the mineral wool and the exterior render.
But you’re right about the blower door test, the cable on the exterior wall must be sealed because I believe the interior plaster is considered the airtight layer.
Harakiri schrieb:
Ice-tight, and Kaiser also offers a range of sealing collars. Oh, cool, I know those for the roof when there’s a cable or pipe exit. So, you could also use them for the exterior wall (for example, with Poroton hollow bricks).
But the weak point at the cable exit between the mineral wool and exterior render still remains.
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