ᐅ Looking for an interior door suitable for a 10° to 12°C temperature difference, classified as climate class II or III?
Created on: 12 Jun 2009 18:39
M
MaddinHello dear forum members,
we are looking for a solution to replace the insulated glass door between the living room (31m² (334 ft²)) and the conservatory (30m² (323 ft²)). The entire house already has windows and doors from >Veka Topline AD, flush-mounted, color Oregon< with 1.1 glass installed. As part of the living room renovation, the connecting door between the living room and the conservatory is to be replaced. The door to be replaced measures approximately 210x164cm (83x65 inches).
Our requirements, in order of priority, are as follows:
1. Thermal and acoustic separation of the living room and conservatory as two separately usable rooms. With a temperature difference of up to 10°/12°C (50°/54°F), climate class II-III must probably be fulfilled, correct?
2. As large a glass area as possible to sufficiently illuminate the living room behind it.
3. Floor-level transition or a maximum “wheelchair accessible / barrier-free” threshold.
4. Visual matching to the double-leaf terrace door "Veka Topline AD" of the same size in the same wall.
5. When the door is open (approximately 300 days per year during the day), no door leaf should protrude into the room, or at least only one leaf.
A lift-and-slide or parallel sliding door mounted on the outside of the wall is excluded on both the living room and conservatory sides.
However, we can install a sliding door into the former exterior wall. A continuous lintel in this wall allows for this with manageable effort. Is it possible to recess a sliding door (lift-and-slide / parallel sliding) into a wall cavity, preferably with floor-level or barrier-free tracks? Can climate class II or III be achieved this way?
Alternatively, a folding sliding door with or without a barrier-free threshold is also an option. The folding sliding door should have two leaves and open to one side.
If neither of these options works, we will likely have to reluctantly stick with a “normal” flush door again.
Is a “cold barrier” integrated in the door or a magnetic door seal on the floor a good alternative to a 2cm (0.8 inch) old-build threshold?
Thank you very much for tips and suggestions on solving this issue.
Maddin
we are looking for a solution to replace the insulated glass door between the living room (31m² (334 ft²)) and the conservatory (30m² (323 ft²)). The entire house already has windows and doors from >Veka Topline AD, flush-mounted, color Oregon< with 1.1 glass installed. As part of the living room renovation, the connecting door between the living room and the conservatory is to be replaced. The door to be replaced measures approximately 210x164cm (83x65 inches).
Our requirements, in order of priority, are as follows:
1. Thermal and acoustic separation of the living room and conservatory as two separately usable rooms. With a temperature difference of up to 10°/12°C (50°/54°F), climate class II-III must probably be fulfilled, correct?
2. As large a glass area as possible to sufficiently illuminate the living room behind it.
3. Floor-level transition or a maximum “wheelchair accessible / barrier-free” threshold.
4. Visual matching to the double-leaf terrace door "Veka Topline AD" of the same size in the same wall.
5. When the door is open (approximately 300 days per year during the day), no door leaf should protrude into the room, or at least only one leaf.
A lift-and-slide or parallel sliding door mounted on the outside of the wall is excluded on both the living room and conservatory sides.
However, we can install a sliding door into the former exterior wall. A continuous lintel in this wall allows for this with manageable effort. Is it possible to recess a sliding door (lift-and-slide / parallel sliding) into a wall cavity, preferably with floor-level or barrier-free tracks? Can climate class II or III be achieved this way?
Alternatively, a folding sliding door with or without a barrier-free threshold is also an option. The folding sliding door should have two leaves and open to one side.
If neither of these options works, we will likely have to reluctantly stick with a “normal” flush door again.
Is a “cold barrier” integrated in the door or a magnetic door seal on the floor a good alternative to a 2cm (0.8 inch) old-build threshold?
Thank you very much for tips and suggestions on solving this issue.
Maddin
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