ᐅ Location of a city villa or detached single-family house on a 500 m² rectangular plot
Created on: 17 Jan 2020 18:03
T
Tolentino
Dear all,
after sharing the floor plans of my possible hamster cage with you in the other thread , here comes the next thread (thanks again for all the constructive suggestions there).
Just so you know, the semi-detached house is not off the table yet, as this plot of land is highly sought after and it’s not clear whether it will work out. But this one would be my favorite.
Now to this plot. For now, I’m mainly concerned with where and roughly how the house should be positioned on this plot.
Development plan / restrictions
Plot size: 500 m² (5400 sq ft)
Slope: none
Site coverage ratio: 0.2
Floor area ratio: 0.4
Building envelope, building line and boundary: 5 m (16 ft) from the street, 3 m (10 ft) from neighbors
Edge development: allowed for garages and sheds, none existing on the plot
Number of parking spaces: 1-2
Number of floors: 1.5–2.5
Roof shape: no preference
Architectural style: no preference
Orientation: aligned parallel to the street
Maximum heights / limits: ridge height max. 9 m (30 ft)
Below are the site plans I created myself based on the details from the listing.
This is a rough overview of the plot with building boundaries and dimensions.
My question is: where to put the house?
The broker suggests placing it towards the back, since you already have the 5 m (16 ft) setback at the front and would “gain” about 3 m (10 ft) of garden. My partner doesn’t like this because of the visibility from the street. I say: privacy screen! But I also think, a fence too high might create a prison-yard feel.
But even if you follow this suggestion, I wonder if a more square floor plan (-> town villa style) would be better?
Like this, for example:
Then parking space might be tricky, right?
Or upright like this?
I really want as much of a west-facing view and garden as possible. I tend to be an evening person and that side is less built up, due to the road. So I think more light comes through.
But the narrow floor plan caused lots of problems with the semi-detached house already. Well, here you could build longer instead.
What do you think?
Best regards
Tolentino
after sharing the floor plans of my possible hamster cage with you in the other thread , here comes the next thread (thanks again for all the constructive suggestions there).
Just so you know, the semi-detached house is not off the table yet, as this plot of land is highly sought after and it’s not clear whether it will work out. But this one would be my favorite.
Now to this plot. For now, I’m mainly concerned with where and roughly how the house should be positioned on this plot.
Development plan / restrictions
Plot size: 500 m² (5400 sq ft)
Slope: none
Site coverage ratio: 0.2
Floor area ratio: 0.4
Building envelope, building line and boundary: 5 m (16 ft) from the street, 3 m (10 ft) from neighbors
Edge development: allowed for garages and sheds, none existing on the plot
Number of parking spaces: 1-2
Number of floors: 1.5–2.5
Roof shape: no preference
Architectural style: no preference
Orientation: aligned parallel to the street
Maximum heights / limits: ridge height max. 9 m (30 ft)
Below are the site plans I created myself based on the details from the listing.
This is a rough overview of the plot with building boundaries and dimensions.
My question is: where to put the house?
The broker suggests placing it towards the back, since you already have the 5 m (16 ft) setback at the front and would “gain” about 3 m (10 ft) of garden. My partner doesn’t like this because of the visibility from the street. I say: privacy screen! But I also think, a fence too high might create a prison-yard feel.
But even if you follow this suggestion, I wonder if a more square floor plan (-> town villa style) would be better?
Like this, for example:
Then parking space might be tricky, right?
Or upright like this?
I really want as much of a west-facing view and garden as possible. I tend to be an evening person and that side is less built up, due to the road. So I think more light comes through.
But the narrow floor plan caused lots of problems with the semi-detached house already. Well, here you could build longer instead.
What do you think?
Best regards
Tolentino
Hey, I would actually go for it and play dumb on-site – that would even come quite easily for me in the construction sector. Just print out the page from the datasheet regarding the overlap and simply ask why it wasn’t done that way.
On the other hand, it’s a question of whether you can even win such a conflict without losing 100% – in one way or another. Didn’t we have someone here in the forum who had urine or even feces placed under the floor insulation or in front of the house?
It’s difficult. As a desk worker, I also struggle a lot with the observed differences between theory and practice in construction.
On the other hand, it’s a question of whether you can even win such a conflict without losing 100% – in one way or another. Didn’t we have someone here in the forum who had urine or even feces placed under the floor insulation or in front of the house?
It’s difficult. As a desk worker, I also struggle a lot with the observed differences between theory and practice in construction.
I’m trying to de-escalate for now; the building inspector might have overreacted.
I wrote to the shell builder saying that I might have misunderstood him and that it might really be better to discuss this in person, since email isn’t the best way to communicate.
I asked when he would be available, as I was planning to bring some coffee anyway.
I wrote to the shell builder saying that I might have misunderstood him and that it might really be better to discuss this in person, since email isn’t the best way to communicate.
I asked when he would be available, as I was planning to bring some coffee anyway.
Tolentino schrieb:
Now he (i.e. the structural builder) is upset that I would presume to explain to him how to build a wall. He’s asking for an on-site meeting so I can tell him face to face.
I guess I’ll have to spend money to bring in an expert for backup, since I can’t expect any support from the site manager. No, you don’t have to. I wouldn’t stoop to the “level” of a hot-tempered person. The joint stagger is necessary, and it’s really no rocket science. My old aunt solves this puzzle faster than a kitchen timer goes off.
Tolentino schrieb:
Okay, in the other forum, they do recommend bringing an expert along right away. ******* Suggestions that there might be other forums beyond the seven mountains and seven dwarfs are not welcome ******* :-)
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
So, I’m back from the meeting. The atmosphere was quite relaxed. They clearly made an effort to satisfy me.
In the end, they confirmed that it could have been done differently, but that would have required a precise work plan so the bricklayer would know exactly where and how to place each brick to ensure proper alignment on every course. At this point, however, it’s too late for that. They don’t want to correct it starting from the second course by cutting the bricks because then they would have to keep cutting all the way up. I understand this as an attempt to save effort and, in the interest of a smooth construction progress (which I also want), they are willing to proceed properly from now on once the first course is secure.
My expert also confirmed this to me.
I will receive a letter regarding the structural safety and confirmation that no cracks will occur, both from the structural engineer and the site manager of the general contractor. That should be sufficient for me.
Oh, and as a reason against dismantling—which the site manager said would theoretically still be proportionate up to two courses—he argued that they would then have to do the same at the neighbor’s house because admitting this means acknowledging it is unsafe. However, dismantling there would no longer be proportionate, and they absolutely do not want to dismantle there.
The neighbor’s house has already been approved by the brick manufacturer, which is necessary for Dryfix systems. The manufacturer is already aware of the situation. My expert called them, and they were already familiar with the bricklayer’s name because he had called them before. This whole issue is causing quite a stir...
By the way, my expert praised the brickwork higher up on the neighbor’s house.
Since it has already been mentioned elsewhere that uncooperative clients don’t exactly motivate the craftsmen, and because I don’t want to find vomit additives in my mortar or anywhere else, I was very understanding, politely thanked them for their time, and treated them to coffee and pastries.
I mean, if it meant I could get my house a month earlier, I’d even work as a construction helper for a day wearing just a wool jumper and leather chaps.
That said, I know I will now increase my visit frequency and measurement checks even more.
After all, I have to take advantage of the fact that I only live 5m (16 feet) away, and with COVID the traffic isn’t that bad anymore.
In the end, they confirmed that it could have been done differently, but that would have required a precise work plan so the bricklayer would know exactly where and how to place each brick to ensure proper alignment on every course. At this point, however, it’s too late for that. They don’t want to correct it starting from the second course by cutting the bricks because then they would have to keep cutting all the way up. I understand this as an attempt to save effort and, in the interest of a smooth construction progress (which I also want), they are willing to proceed properly from now on once the first course is secure.
My expert also confirmed this to me.
I will receive a letter regarding the structural safety and confirmation that no cracks will occur, both from the structural engineer and the site manager of the general contractor. That should be sufficient for me.
Oh, and as a reason against dismantling—which the site manager said would theoretically still be proportionate up to two courses—he argued that they would then have to do the same at the neighbor’s house because admitting this means acknowledging it is unsafe. However, dismantling there would no longer be proportionate, and they absolutely do not want to dismantle there.
The neighbor’s house has already been approved by the brick manufacturer, which is necessary for Dryfix systems. The manufacturer is already aware of the situation. My expert called them, and they were already familiar with the bricklayer’s name because he had called them before. This whole issue is causing quite a stir...
By the way, my expert praised the brickwork higher up on the neighbor’s house.
Since it has already been mentioned elsewhere that uncooperative clients don’t exactly motivate the craftsmen, and because I don’t want to find vomit additives in my mortar or anywhere else, I was very understanding, politely thanked them for their time, and treated them to coffee and pastries.
I mean, if it meant I could get my house a month earlier, I’d even work as a construction helper for a day wearing just a wool jumper and leather chaps.
That said, I know I will now increase my visit frequency and measurement checks even more.
After all, I have to take advantage of the fact that I only live 5m (16 feet) away, and with COVID the traffic isn’t that bad anymore.
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