Hello,
One side of the house is having its facade renewed. The fiber cement panels will be removed, and a wooden facade will be installed. It will be mounted on the same battens as the old facade. Behind the battens, there is 30-year-old plaster in good condition.
Currently, there are no plans to install insulation because it’s cheaper that way.
Now I’m considering adding mineral wool boards underneath. Mineral wool is affordable, and I’ve never had any issues with it in interior construction. However, I have little experience with facade insulation. I would simply place the mineral wool between the studs and install the new facade over it.
Is this a reasonable approach, or would you advise against it?
Best regards,
Dominik
One side of the house is having its facade renewed. The fiber cement panels will be removed, and a wooden facade will be installed. It will be mounted on the same battens as the old facade. Behind the battens, there is 30-year-old plaster in good condition.
Currently, there are no plans to install insulation because it’s cheaper that way.
Now I’m considering adding mineral wool boards underneath. Mineral wool is affordable, and I’ve never had any issues with it in interior construction. However, I have little experience with facade insulation. I would simply place the mineral wool between the studs and install the new facade over it.
Is this a reasonable approach, or would you advise against it?
Best regards,
Dominik
Hello
In timber construction, I would always separate weather protection and insulation with an air layer. Above the insulation, install a breather membrane, then an air gap, and finally the exterior cladding. It is very important to check the wall assembly in advance, for example using a U-value calculator, with special attention to the dew point.
Olli
In timber construction, I would always separate weather protection and insulation with an air layer. Above the insulation, install a breather membrane, then an air gap, and finally the exterior cladding. It is very important to check the wall assembly in advance, for example using a U-value calculator, with special attention to the dew point.
Olli
The plan is to screw vertical wooden ceiling boards onto the existing horizontal battens (every meter), so that the wooden facade boards can be installed vertically. The wooden ceiling boards are about 1cm (0.4 inches) thick; is that sufficient to serve as an underlay / ventilation gap?
For the ventilation gap, you should use battens that are at least 24 mm (1 inch) thick.
Rock wool mats between the old battens, then 24x48 mm (1x2 inch) battens above, and the boarding on top is no problem.
How thick are the old battens, and what is the wall structure behind them?
Dew point undershoot with additional exterior insulation, especially with a ventilated façade... To put it briefly: The likelihood of building damage from a plane crash into the wall is probably higher.
The insulation requirement when renewing more than 10% of the wall surfaces only applies to houses with building permit / planning permission applications submitted before November 1, 1979.
Rock wool mats between the old battens, then 24x48 mm (1x2 inch) battens above, and the boarding on top is no problem.
How thick are the old battens, and what is the wall structure behind them?
Dew point undershoot with additional exterior insulation, especially with a ventilated façade... To put it briefly: The likelihood of building damage from a plane crash into the wall is probably higher.
The insulation requirement when renewing more than 10% of the wall surfaces only applies to houses with building permit / planning permission applications submitted before November 1, 1979.
There will be no insulation due to concerns about the dew point and cost.
There are two layers of battens, either 24mm (1 inch) or 28mm (1.1 inches) thick. The wall itself is not damp, but the old battens behind it are. The client does not want to replace those battens. The top layer of battens runs horizontally, but vertical battens are needed. Therefore, a third layer of battens will be added on top. These will not be roofing battens, but solid timber boards typically used for ceilings.
I advised him to use thinner roofing battens or to redesign the entire structure.
However, that would be more expensive, so like insulation, it’s a no.
I’m just here to do the work.
Rough plaster on a masonry brick wall. Inside, drywall panels.
The house itself is much older than 1979. The facade being replaced may date from around that time, but it is not certain.
I would like to thank everyone here for their help.
Best regards and happy holidays
dertill schrieb:
How thick are the old battens?
There are two layers of battens, either 24mm (1 inch) or 28mm (1.1 inches) thick. The wall itself is not damp, but the old battens behind it are. The client does not want to replace those battens. The top layer of battens runs horizontally, but vertical battens are needed. Therefore, a third layer of battens will be added on top. These will not be roofing battens, but solid timber boards typically used for ceilings.
I advised him to use thinner roofing battens or to redesign the entire structure.
However, that would be more expensive, so like insulation, it’s a no.
I’m just here to do the work.
dertill schrieb:
How is the wall constructed behind it?
Rough plaster on a masonry brick wall. Inside, drywall panels.
dertill schrieb:
The requirement to insulate when renewing more than 10% of the wall area only applies to houses with building permit / planning permission applications before November 1, 1979.
The house itself is much older than 1979. The facade being replaced may date from around that time, but it is not certain.
I would like to thank everyone here for their help.
Best regards and happy holidays
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