ᐅ Install drywall over an existing wall to create a flush, even surface?
Created on: 8 May 2011 11:11
L
Laie1981
Good morning,
We will be moving soon. In our old apartment, we put up a lot of wallpaper. I don’t need to explain what that means: removing old wallpaper, filling, sanding, then a painter applies new wallpaper. We took this apartment over without renovation, so when we move out, we will probably just leave the wallpaper as is.
In the new apartment it would be the same process, but instead of removing wallpaper when moving out, we would just apply new textured wallpaper (woodchip wallpaper) on top as a replacement. Since I will be heavily pregnant at the time of the move and simply won’t be able to handle the physical effort, and because the financial cost is always quite high, I am looking for an alternative. Please don’t say “just don’t use wallpaper.”
I had this idea in my amateur mind: a wooden substructure fixed to the existing wall, then interior construction boards or something like Fermacell mounted on that, and after filling the joints, wallpaper applied on top. But I know that definitely won’t work as is, or that I probably forgot to consider something, or maybe there’s a simpler way, or there might not be enough air circulation behind it... So I really need input and advice from professionals!
How can you quickly get a smooth wall over woodchip wallpaper that can be removed again later?
Thanks for constructive answers!
We will be moving soon. In our old apartment, we put up a lot of wallpaper. I don’t need to explain what that means: removing old wallpaper, filling, sanding, then a painter applies new wallpaper. We took this apartment over without renovation, so when we move out, we will probably just leave the wallpaper as is.
In the new apartment it would be the same process, but instead of removing wallpaper when moving out, we would just apply new textured wallpaper (woodchip wallpaper) on top as a replacement. Since I will be heavily pregnant at the time of the move and simply won’t be able to handle the physical effort, and because the financial cost is always quite high, I am looking for an alternative. Please don’t say “just don’t use wallpaper.”
I had this idea in my amateur mind: a wooden substructure fixed to the existing wall, then interior construction boards or something like Fermacell mounted on that, and after filling the joints, wallpaper applied on top. But I know that definitely won’t work as is, or that I probably forgot to consider something, or maybe there’s a simpler way, or there might not be enough air circulation behind it... So I really need input and advice from professionals!
How can you quickly get a smooth wall over woodchip wallpaper that can be removed again later?
Thanks for constructive answers!
Hello @Laie1981,
If I understand correctly, the issue is not necessarily about comparing drywall installation with creating wallpapered or wallpaper-ready plastered solid walls. If that were the case, the disadvantages of the applied facing wall (more time-consuming, material-intensive, and costly; additional cavity insulation recommended, e.g., mineral wool; shifting the dew point inward with the risk of mold growth on the base wall surface; risk of damage at the junctions to all adjoining components; three-sided adhesion problems with silicone or acrylic joints; extra work around door and window connections; possible damage to floor and ceiling areas; reduction of usable space; additional disposal and patching efforts upon removal; remaining cracks in the interior plaster leading to damage of the airtight and heat-exchanging building envelope with mold risk in the exterior building structure, etc.) would simply be outweighed by the advantage of not having to prepare the solid wall for wallpapering.
If you are willing to ask your husband to take on the much more extensive and physically demanding transport and installation tasks, it might well be worth considering that he instead prepares the existing walls for wallpapering.
However, if simpler alternatives are meant under further tips, which only involve restoring wallpapered or wallpaper-ready plastered wall surfaces, then a split wallpaper could be a solution. This consists of at least two layers, with the top layer easily removable when dry.
More comprehensive expert advice on this matter is available from professional painting and decorating tradespeople, as mentioned earlier.
Best regards from central Germany
KPS
If I understand correctly, the issue is not necessarily about comparing drywall installation with creating wallpapered or wallpaper-ready plastered solid walls. If that were the case, the disadvantages of the applied facing wall (more time-consuming, material-intensive, and costly; additional cavity insulation recommended, e.g., mineral wool; shifting the dew point inward with the risk of mold growth on the base wall surface; risk of damage at the junctions to all adjoining components; three-sided adhesion problems with silicone or acrylic joints; extra work around door and window connections; possible damage to floor and ceiling areas; reduction of usable space; additional disposal and patching efforts upon removal; remaining cracks in the interior plaster leading to damage of the airtight and heat-exchanging building envelope with mold risk in the exterior building structure, etc.) would simply be outweighed by the advantage of not having to prepare the solid wall for wallpapering.
If you are willing to ask your husband to take on the much more extensive and physically demanding transport and installation tasks, it might well be worth considering that he instead prepares the existing walls for wallpapering.
However, if simpler alternatives are meant under further tips, which only involve restoring wallpapered or wallpaper-ready plastered wall surfaces, then a split wallpaper could be a solution. This consists of at least two layers, with the top layer easily removable when dry.
More comprehensive expert advice on this matter is available from professional painting and decorating tradespeople, as mentioned earlier.
Best regards from central Germany
KPS
Hello,
what I don’t quite understand is: “There is moisture in the room air that diffuses through your stud wall. The interior side of the exterior wall cools down because it is protected from heat by your stud wall.”
You are talking about an exterior wall, but I didn’t plan to cover a wall that faces outside, meaning towards the street. It might be that I’m missing something, but how does this work, for example, with products from Parador? Do they include insulation between as well? If that is the case, then it’s clearly not a good idea and I have to scrap the whole plan, but that’s exactly why a non-expert like me turns to a specialist forum.
So, the walls to be covered are interior walls, for example, a hallway or something similar, not an exterior wall, which naturally is exposed to different temperature conditions. Any ideas? I will take a closer look at the idea of split wallpaper. Are there any good links about that?
what I don’t quite understand is: “There is moisture in the room air that diffuses through your stud wall. The interior side of the exterior wall cools down because it is protected from heat by your stud wall.”
You are talking about an exterior wall, but I didn’t plan to cover a wall that faces outside, meaning towards the street. It might be that I’m missing something, but how does this work, for example, with products from Parador? Do they include insulation between as well? If that is the case, then it’s clearly not a good idea and I have to scrap the whole plan, but that’s exactly why a non-expert like me turns to a specialist forum.
So, the walls to be covered are interior walls, for example, a hallway or something similar, not an exterior wall, which naturally is exposed to different temperature conditions. Any ideas? I will take a closer look at the idea of split wallpaper. Are there any good links about that?
Hello,
So, only expensive cladding for interior walls and wallpaper for exterior walls.
Read KPS’s post carefully again, then you will understand why you should also leave the interior walls as they are.
Sorry, I’m not familiar with that.
Laie1981 schrieb:
..... I did not intend to clad a wall that faces outside, meaning towards the street.
So, only expensive cladding for interior walls and wallpaper for exterior walls.
Read KPS’s post carefully again, then you will understand why you should also leave the interior walls as they are.
KPS schrieb:
..... risk of damage when removing at the joints with all adjacent components, three-sided adhesion problems with silicone or acrylic joints, additional work around door and window connections, possible damage to floor and ceiling areas, reduction of usable floor space, additional disposal and filling work during removal......
Laie1981 schrieb:
how does that work, for example, with the stuff from parador,
Sorry, I’m not familiar with that.
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