ᐅ Heat pump or solar thermal system with radiators

Created on: 28 Aug 2022 16:58
S
sven_de
Hello, I’m not sure if this is the right place, but I’ll give it a try:

We fell in love with a house, and everything seems fine except for one thing.
The heating/hot water system is entirely gas-based (gas instant water heater).

The house was built in 1886 and was fully renovated in 2001 according to the building energy act (the heating system is about the same age). A few key points:
- Radiators installed only in the bathroom and partially in the living room, which also has underfloor heating
- No basement
- Very small utility room, about 4 sqm (43 sq ft), approximately 1.14 m (3.7 ft) wide and 4.08 m (13.4 ft) long
- Low ceiling height (approximately 2.15 m (7 ft) downstairs and 1.96–1.98 m (6.4–6.5 ft) upstairs)

Now we are considering alternative options, so here are my questions (think of them as brainstorming for ideas):
- An energy consultant suggested solar thermal, but it seems the storage tank might not fit in the utility room?
- Would an air-source heat pump work with just radiators?
- What other solutions might be possible? There is no fireplace either. I don’t have much experience, so I’m a bit stuck.

I hope this information is helpful. I’m just looking for some ideas, not a complete solution.
Thanks!!
S
SaniererNRW123
31 Aug 2022 23:05
ypg schrieb:

You can’t just badmouth everything that YOU don’t like.
Whoever you addressed, nothing is being badmouthed here. This isn’t about comparing to new construction. People haven’t built like that for over 50 years. There’s a reason for that. I couldn’t care less where or how the OP will live. It just needs to be clear that this comes with many restrictions.
Nutshell schrieb:

The supply temperature must be quite high, around 45-55 degrees Celsius (113-131°F), I think. When it’s -10 degrees Celsius (14°F) outside, the heat pump has to handle about a 60-degree Celsius (108°F) temperature difference.
Nutshell schrieb:

To heat the rooms, I would install one split-type outdoor air conditioning unit with four or five indoor units, positioned strategically throughout the building.
That won’t change electricity consumption much, since the heating load is independent of that. And whether you want to open up all the interior walls to run lines is another matter. From experience, I expect new radiators to operate around 45-48 degrees Celsius (113-118°F) supply temperature. That’s still acceptable, as most of the time much less heat feed is needed (the 45-48 degrees Celsius supply temperature only during the coldest winter nights, if those still occur). And you have to like the blowing noise of air conditioners.
Nutshell schrieb:

At least this way no power-hungry electric heating element switches on and you don’t have rooms that are too cold, since every degree of supply temperature reduces efficiency. At -10 degrees Celsius (14°F), you might as well start a gas heater because heat pump efficiency is really poor then.
Yes, the efficiency is not as good anymore. But with gas prices, it’s probably still cheaper. Because nowadays no heat pump needs an electric backup heater until temperatures drop below -15 degrees Celsius (5°F) (-10 degrees Celsius copes with a coefficient of performance around 2.5 at 40 degrees Celsius supply, somewhat worse at 45 degrees Celsius).
Y
ypg
1 Sep 2022 00:12
SaniererNRW123 schrieb:

This method hasn’t been used in construction for over 50 years.
sven_de schrieb:

The house was built in 1886 and was fully renovated in 2001 according to the building energy code.
You could refer back to the original thread instead of just rambling!
S
SaniererNRW123
1 Sep 2022 07:54
ypg schrieb:

You could go back to the original thread instead of just chatting nonsense!
I already said very early on that the heat pump will work with radiators. Where are your relevant posts? Oh right, you don't have any 🙄
DeepRed1 Sep 2022 08:17
SaniererNRW123 schrieb:

I said from the start that the heat pump would work with radiators. Where are your supporting posts? Oh right, you don’t have any 🙄
Actually, she did respond appropriately to your nonsense. Not everyone is good at math; it’s easy to confuse 136 years with 50 sometimes.
Where are ceiling heights of 2.00m (6 ft 7 in) prohibited, or what restrictions are there? I don’t see any condition in my building permit / planning permission for the change of use that forbids me from living on the ground floor. Your statements imply there might be issues (and surely you’re not referring to the increased number of dressings needed for head wounds caused by paving stones).
Your username suggests you have a lot of experience with renovations, either professionally or privately. I would expect you to have a wealth of knowledge. However, your comments are quite confusing to me right now.
Sorry if I’m slightly derailing the thread here, but I didn’t want to leave this without comment.
N
netuser
1 Sep 2022 08:31
@DeepRed if you didn’t sleep well or haven’t had your coffee yet, go back to bed before things get personal here. After that, the sun will look different, you’ll read through the comments from the renovator again, and you’ll realize that nothing here is nonsense, but rather well-intentioned practical experience being shared...

Let’s just keep this factual!
S
SaniererNRW123
1 Sep 2022 08:50
DeepRed schrieb:

Yes, she did respond appropriately to your nonsense.

Not to nonsense, but also not to my contribution about the heat pump. And not a single suggestion for the heating on now five pages.
DeepRed schrieb:

Where are ceiling heights of 2.00 m (6 ft 7 in) prohibited?

See the regional building codes. They specify what is currently allowed or approved as living space/habitable room. Standard rooms (no basement, no attic) are generally around 2.4 m (7 ft 10 in). Deviations downward and upward are possible.
In NRW, it even states explicitly: “There are concerns about usability, especially regarding health, for clear heights below 2.20 m (7 ft 3 in).”
In older buildings, there is grandfathering protection. Apart from that, a 1.99 m (6 ft 6 in) ceiling would lead to the room being counted as only half living space. Therefore, with current ceiling heights of around 2 m (6 ft 7 in), you need to be careful if, for example, you install new tiles over old tiles. In that case, you effectively halve your living area...
This is regulated in the living space ordinance again.
DeepRed schrieb:

I see no requirement in my building permit for the change of use that prevents me from living on the ground floor.

Not a new build. And I don’t know exactly what you are converting. But your house was built with a valid building permit according to the applicable building regulations at the time. So, like the original poster, all good.
DeepRed schrieb:

What restrictions are there?

Be it the awkward door sizes (yes, which may increase the need for paving), furniture, etc.
DeepRed schrieb:

Your username suggests you have a lot to do with renovations professionally or privately.

Sort of, needed a new account because you get kicked off here very quickly 😉 (even with about 8,500 posts). I have been working in the real estate sector for over 25 years (banking/project development), am a DIY handyman, a small real estate investor, and landlord.