ᐅ Heating System for New Build (Heat Pump + Stove + Solar)

Created on: 24 Dec 2017 08:58
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bau_name
Hello everyone,

I would like to introduce myself briefly. We started building a new single-family house five years ago. We moved in about 2.5 years ago.

Unfortunately, after the first few weeks, we had to part ways with the architect and construction management, as their services (planning, etc.) were a disaster, and some of the craftsmen were far from professional (just my personal opinion).

But this is not meant to be a story about our struggles; by now, we are living very satisfactorily in our home.

However, we plan to build again in the near future. To avoid going through the same issues, we want to form our own opinion as thoroughly as possible beforehand.

Now, onto the topic:

Heat pump
Water-circulating stove (to provide support during cold temperatures)
No solar panels (energy saving regulations are met)
Heating load approximately 7000 kWh per year excluding hot water
Flow temperature 26-32°C (79-90°F), temperature spread is 5°C (9°F)
Room volume approximately 600 m³ (21,200 ft³)

These values are based on our current house; the new house will be built almost the same but possibly with better insulation. So I think it can be used as a reference.

Example: At 0°C (32°F) outside and 23°C (73°F) inside, we have a flow temperature of 30°C (86°F) and a return temperature of 25°C (77°F), which equals a 5°C (9°F) spread.

In summary:

- The heat pump should be able to heat and cool the house independently.
- The concrete ceiling should be actively cooled (down to the dew point), possibly also the floor heating.
- The water-circulating stove is intended to provide supplementary heating and create a cozy atmosphere.
- Solar panels are not to be installed (optional).

I have drawn a simple schematic with two storage tanks (1000-liter buffer / 300-liter domestic hot water tank).

How it works:

- Normally / summer, the heat pump heats the domestic hot water tank to 50°C (122°F), starting at a certain time (yellow).
- When the stove is turned on, it first heats the domestic hot water tank via the lower heat exchanger and then cools down the buffer tank (red).
- When the stove is off, water from the buffer tank is circulated until the domestic hot water tank reaches 60°C (140°F) or the same temperature as the buffer (blue).
- Solar panels could possibly be connected to the upper heat exchanger of the domestic hot water tank (brown). Additionally, the buffer tank might also be heated via the lower heat exchanger.
- If the domestic hot water tank is cold, the stove is off, and hot water is needed quickly, the heat pump switches on and an electric heating element in the domestic hot water tank supports heating. Otherwise, heating is controlled normally by the heat pump according to the schedule.
- The underfloor heating and ceiling heating are supplied by the heat pump or via the buffer tank.

The control system is very simple and would be managed by a programmable controller. Also, there are few components, which reduces potential failures or troubleshooting complexities.

I do not want a combined unit / combined storage tank, as I consider them relatively expensive, and they always require a service technician if something goes wrong.
If problems do occur, the valves can be switched manually, and the heat pump will operate independently.

This is very important to me.

The domestic (fresh) water is not connected to the heating circuit.

Please do not discuss the type of heat source (heat pump, solar, etc.) at this time. I would like to do that later, unless it’s related to the system’s function. Thank you.

The control system for underfloor and ceiling heating needs to be discussed in a second step, but that can only happen after the system is installed.

Thank you very much for the support.

Schematic building services diagram with heating, pipes, and radiators
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bau_name
24 Dec 2017 12:54
What is the water temperature coming from the geothermal fluid? Is it 10 degrees?

Our office is cooled using well water. The cooling operates 24 hours a day but uses relatively little electricity.
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toxicmolotof
24 Dec 2017 12:54
That’s always the problem. But if you want passive cooling in the summer, oil heating won’t get you very far. Then, the only options are air conditioning or a heat pump with a cooling function. In that case, photovoltaic systems can be useful again.

Whether oil heating works without solar (in terms of regulations)… you need to ask someone who knows about that.

But as often: whatever you decide, calculate, calculate, calculate.
markus270328 Dec 2017 13:40
You prefer gas? Then just go with a liquefied gas tank, and you can install a gas boiler. It doesn't get any easier than that.
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Joedreck
28 Dec 2017 15:53
Then oil could be used right away.
For me, oil and liquefied petroleum gas have no place in new construction anymore.
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bau_name
28 Dec 2017 17:58
Anyone who has ever used liquid gas will not want it again. Expensive, complicated, ...

Otherwise, I believe that gas is the right energy source for new buildings. The idea of wanting to do everything with electricity is a joke in Germany.
markus270329 Dec 2017 06:22
Joedreck schrieb:
Then you might as well use oil.
For me, oil and liquefied petroleum gas have absolutely no place in new construction anymore.

You necessarily need a basement for oil, while gas can be stored much more space-efficiently in the garden.
Could you briefly explain why liquefied petroleum gas specifically no longer belongs in new buildings?

If there is simply no gas grid connection available, alternatives are limited. And not everyone is a fan of heat pumps.