We will have two full floors plus a sizable attic space above (2.50m (8.2 feet) at the highest point). The attic will be insulated anyway, and the mechanical ventilation system will be installed in the attic.
The gas heater is, of course, nowadays a very compact unit (60x60x180 cm (24x24x71 inches), including a 200-liter (53-gallon) hot water tank), but a pipe will still need to be run upstairs. This could be either natural gas or exhaust gas.
Naturally, one wonders whether it might be better to run non-toxic natural gas through the house (which can only explode at very high concentrations and can definitely be smelled well before that because suppliers add odorants; it is non-toxic) instead of potentially toxic exhaust gas. However, these systems are fundamentally very safe, and a €40 (approximately $43) carbon monoxide detector provides additional security.
The gas heater is, of course, nowadays a very compact unit (60x60x180 cm (24x24x71 inches), including a 200-liter (53-gallon) hot water tank), but a pipe will still need to be run upstairs. This could be either natural gas or exhaust gas.
Naturally, one wonders whether it might be better to run non-toxic natural gas through the house (which can only explode at very high concentrations and can definitely be smelled well before that because suppliers add odorants; it is non-toxic) instead of potentially toxic exhaust gas. However, these systems are fundamentally very safe, and a €40 (approximately $43) carbon monoxide detector provides additional security.
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Goldi091117 Feb 2017 12:49Let me briefly join in.
We are currently in the planning phase with our architect and have already considered this (gas condensing boiler in the attic). We are building a townhouse-style house (about 22° hipped roof) and also including a mechanical ventilation system with heat recovery, which, according to the architect, should also be installed in the utility room. If I can place both units in the attic, that sounds very appealing. What are the additional costs for insulating the attic? Does the upper floor ceiling need to be designed differently (structural stability)?
We are currently in the planning phase with our architect and have already considered this (gas condensing boiler in the attic). We are building a townhouse-style house (about 22° hipped roof) and also including a mechanical ventilation system with heat recovery, which, according to the architect, should also be installed in the utility room. If I can place both units in the attic, that sounds very appealing. What are the additional costs for insulating the attic? Does the upper floor ceiling need to be designed differently (structural stability)?
Goldi09111 schrieb:
What are the additional costs to insulate the attic? Does the upper floor ceiling need to be designed differently (structural considerations)?This cannot be answered in a general way. In theory, it is sufficient to insulate only the area where the equipment is located. However, I prefer "all or nothing."
In our case, approximately 150 sqm (1,615 sq ft) of the attic were insulated with 200 mm (8 inches) stone wool insulation with a thermal conductivity of 0.035 W/mK, a vapor barrier, battens, and cladding with OSB boards. I believe the material costs were around 2,300 EUR, including small items like screws, staples, tape, and sealant cartridges for the vapor barrier, plus about 30 hours of labor.
I cannot say whether the ceiling needs to be designed differently; the size of your house and the attic area to be insulated significantly affect the costs.
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RotorMotor10 Jul 2020 10:33Has anyone gained experience by now with heating and/or ventilation under the roof?
Are there any noises audible on the upper floor?
Is the ceiling made of wood or concrete? How is the unit decoupled, and how is the room insulated?
Are there any noises audible on the upper floor?
Is the ceiling made of wood or concrete? How is the unit decoupled, and how is the room insulated?
Ditto. Also above the bedroom and likewise with a timber beam ceiling. When the heating system was not properly vented, there was a gurgling sound. This was fixed accordingly. The ventilation unit is wall-mounted on the gable and decoupled within its casing. The only noise you hear, which applies to every room, is a slight sound of the airflow when the ventilation system is set to a higher level.
Mine currently operates with night cooling, meaning in summer it bypasses the heat exchanger with fresh supply air to avoid warming it up. During the day, the ventilation runs automatically at a low level and then increases between 10 p.m. and 6 a.m. to blow fresh air into the house. It works well, I am satisfied.
Mine currently operates with night cooling, meaning in summer it bypasses the heat exchanger with fresh supply air to avoid warming it up. During the day, the ventilation runs automatically at a low level and then increases between 10 p.m. and 6 a.m. to blow fresh air into the house. It works well, I am satisfied.
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