ᐅ Should I drill an additional inlet into the rainwater catch basin?
Created on: 30 Aug 2023 16:24
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AllThumbs
Hello everyone,
I am currently considering the best way to drain the roof area of the soon-to-be-built carport.
At a distance of 4.5m (15 feet) from a possible post location for the drainage, we have a rainwater catch basin installed for the downpipe draining the house roof:
[IMG width="185px"]https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61Cr0iIPwyL._AC_SX679_.jpg[/IMG][IMG width="213px"]https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51veIrweQpS._AC_SX679_.jpg[/IMG]
Both the rainwater catch basin and the carport post are located at the eaves edge.
My idea was to lead the drainage from the carport post to the existing catch basin. However, since the pipe should ideally not be visible, I would have to run it below the gravel in the eaves area.
A 2% slope over approximately 4.5m (15 feet) results in a 10cm (4 inch) height difference, so I would need to cut an additional side opening at the lower end of the basin.
Do you see any problems with this? Possibly with sealing the additional opening? Has anyone perhaps tried this before? I have not found any ready-made basins with an additional side inlet.
I am currently considering the best way to drain the roof area of the soon-to-be-built carport.
At a distance of 4.5m (15 feet) from a possible post location for the drainage, we have a rainwater catch basin installed for the downpipe draining the house roof:
[IMG width="185px"]https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61Cr0iIPwyL._AC_SX679_.jpg[/IMG][IMG width="213px"]https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51veIrweQpS._AC_SX679_.jpg[/IMG]
Both the rainwater catch basin and the carport post are located at the eaves edge.
My idea was to lead the drainage from the carport post to the existing catch basin. However, since the pipe should ideally not be visible, I would have to run it below the gravel in the eaves area.
A 2% slope over approximately 4.5m (15 feet) results in a 10cm (4 inch) height difference, so I would need to cut an additional side opening at the lower end of the basin.
Do you see any problems with this? Possibly with sealing the additional opening? Has anyone perhaps tried this before? I have not found any ready-made basins with an additional side inlet.
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AllThumbs31 Aug 2023 08:45Oh yes, good point! I was somehow so focused on providing an outlet.
Yesterday, I also looked into a T-piece under the sink cabinet. The water is directed there into a PVC sewer pipe.
But I couldn’t find any T-pieces or branches with a nominal diameter of 75mm (3 inches) for PVC sewer pipes. Did I search poorly, or do they really not exist? For the route from the carport, I planned to use a 75mm (3 inches) HT pipe (a type of drain pipe). How do you connect the two?
PS: Sorry, I guess it’s obvious that we outsourced the exterior work.
Yesterday, I also looked into a T-piece under the sink cabinet. The water is directed there into a PVC sewer pipe.
But I couldn’t find any T-pieces or branches with a nominal diameter of 75mm (3 inches) for PVC sewer pipes. Did I search poorly, or do they really not exist? For the route from the carport, I planned to use a 75mm (3 inches) HT pipe (a type of drain pipe). How do you connect the two?
PS: Sorry, I guess it’s obvious that we outsourced the exterior work.
W
WilderSueden31 Aug 2023 08:52Do you mean a 100/75 branch? Those do exist. For my part, I installed a DN100 KG2000 pipe for the patio roof drainage and then used a 100/75 reducer to connect to the drain. KG2000 is a bit more expensive than HT pipes, but it is more durable. It can also be installed without surrounding it with sand.
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AllThumbs31 Aug 2023 14:25WilderSueden schrieb:
Do you mean a 100/75 branch? Those do exist. But only for HT pipes, right? It seems similar for reducers. I could do it the way you suggested: a T-piece on the KG pipe and then lead the KG pipe with the same diameter to the carport. There, put an HT reducer from 110 to 75 on it. That should probably work, even though I would have quite a bit of adjustment work on the KG pipe.
Have you seen something like this in use before?:
It is placed on the existing pipe, the cutout marked, the cutout removed, and then the branch is glued on with a (special?) adhesive. In narrow eaves, that would be optimal, maybe even the only option.
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