ᐅ Bullet-resistant glass?

User0815 schrieb:

If the key is next to the lock, you don’t need to lock it.

Aha, that has nothing to do with what I wrote. Additionally, I consider your statement to be incorrect.

The DIN EN 1627 standard rates the resistance time of RC1N, RC2N, and RC2 at 3 minutes equally. Only with RC4 do experienced intruders reach 10 minutes.

However, even the most secure window is useless if it is not installed with the appropriate structural support, confirmed by the contractor responsible. Do not be satisfied with just a "RAL installation" or similar certifications, as these are only recommendations.

Insurance companies, especially in solid construction, are aware of the low strength classes of masonry.

Anyone who truly wants to secure their property must meet all three requirements. Everything else is just window sales marketing, particularly in renovation projects. In these cases, hardly any structural engineer will confirm sufficient wall strength on its own.

Resistance times are one thing; the other is the tool being used... Now the original poster should clarify what their actual goal is.

The above RC correspond to the tools.

rick2018 schrieb:

What kind of windows did you choose?

We stuck with the standard option—no certifications, no special glazing, no lockable handles—nothing.

Additionally, we don’t have any fences or hedges, no alarm system, no guard dog, and definitely no weapons in the house. It’s quite possible for our front and patio doors to be wide open for hours while we hang out at the neighbor’s beer tap.
We’re more the type to offer an intruder a coffee and some life advice—playing the "victim" role, I guess.

I just checked; one of our tilt-and-turn windows has a total of 9 mushroom-head locking bolts. Plus, the area below the handle is reinforced with a steel plate, and the handle itself is a so-called Secustik, which provides some protection against tampering from outside. Of course, I also made sure to properly anchor the window during installation (although for other reasons). That (together with the exterior lighting combined with the neighbors’ motion sensors) should be enough for a sense of security.

We have RC2-rated security, lockable handles, and a few other safety features, but above all, very attentive neighbors (retirees). The latter are priceless and, in my opinion, the most effective since they directly and immediately address strangers.

Regarding security classes: There are some good videos from glass manufacturers showing burglars trying to break a pane using paving slabs and then smashing it with a large hammer, but nothing happens. This can go as far as bulletproof glass. However, I seem to recall that, from an insurance perspective, such measures must be reasonable. If I remember correctly, an insurance company would not cover a damaged, very expensive RC4/5-rated pane if you installed it just for fun or to protect your collection of surprise eggs or porcelain figurines. It has been a long time since I looked into this, so I can’t provide sources. Maybe someone here knows more.

And last but not least: Just like with cars fitted with anti-burglary glazing all around, in an emergency, this can sometimes hinder rescuers from helping you. Firefighters will find access eventually with their heavy equipment, although it might be somewhat delayed. I’m not sure whether first responders from the neighborhood would be able to get in quickly in an emergency (fire, etc.). Looking at the windows and doors, probably not.