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pumuck1-15 May 2009 22:07Dear all,
My goal is to refinish the staircase with laminate flooring. I feel confident doing this myself. However, the wall where the carpet baseboards used to be is not in good condition (there were sections of plaster that detached during carpet removal, and the painter couldn’t perfectly smooth them out). Therefore, I need to install baseboards along the laminate as well.
This wouldn’t be a problem if the staircase right side wasn’t curved—only the lower 6 steps are curved, but still.
So here’s my question:
How can I solve the issue of straight baseboards against a curved wall? In some places, I only need pieces about 5cm (2 inches) wide. It looks awkward to just force a straight baseboard onto a curved wall with two screws.
Thanks for your input.
Carmen
My goal is to refinish the staircase with laminate flooring. I feel confident doing this myself. However, the wall where the carpet baseboards used to be is not in good condition (there were sections of plaster that detached during carpet removal, and the painter couldn’t perfectly smooth them out). Therefore, I need to install baseboards along the laminate as well.
This wouldn’t be a problem if the staircase right side wasn’t curved—only the lower 6 steps are curved, but still.
So here’s my question:
How can I solve the issue of straight baseboards against a curved wall? In some places, I only need pieces about 5cm (2 inches) wide. It looks awkward to just force a straight baseboard onto a curved wall with two screws.
Thanks for your input.
Carmen
pumuck1 schrieb:
Dear all,
How do you deal with the problem of straight baseboards on curved walls? Sometimes only small pieces of about 5cm (2 inches) wide are needed. It looks odd when I force the straight baseboard onto the wall with just two screws.
Thanks for any advice.
CarmenHmm, the stair issue keeps coming up: they’re often not very visible at the bottom,
but frequently at eye level. So a nice finish is important. 😉
My tip:
Avoid wooden baseboards unless you can fit them so they really sit flush against the wall.
Otherwise, the result won’t look good.
One possible option is to glue baseboards made from laminate strips.
However, that’s not really recommended either, as a dirty edge can form over time.
What I would do:
Fill any holes in the baseboard area and match the plaster texture.
Then dab or paint the wall.
Butt the laminate tightly against the wall (possibly with a small gap—laminate installers might know better) and then fill the gap with tinted silicone sealant, smoothing it neatly.
Of course, the downside here is that shoes, vacuum cleaners, etc. can cause marks that might need touch-ups.
To counter this, you could paint a 5 to 10cm (2 to 4 inches) high baseboard area, preferably with a silk gloss paint that’s easy to clean.
Best regards
wow,
that’s a really good tip, we have the same problem.
Quote: "Hmm, the problem with the stairs keeps coming up"
I think this solution is great
Quote: "fill with colored silicone joint sealant and smooth it off"
as mentioned, it can be repaired if it no longer looks good.
regards,
ev
that’s a really good tip, we have the same problem.
Quote: "Hmm, the problem with the stairs keeps coming up"
I think this solution is great
Quote: "fill with colored silicone joint sealant and smooth it off"
as mentioned, it can be repaired if it no longer looks good.
regards,
ev
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MODERATOR3 Dec 2009 00:01Hello everyone,
As a professional, I wouldn’t extend the laminate right up to the curve; a DIYer likely won’t be able to fit it precisely to the curve (and some full-time tradespeople might struggle as well). Additionally, a gap is needed for structural reasons (to allow for movement of the laminate flooring).
Mooler’s suggestion to repair the wall near the baseboard area is a good one; however, I would handle the joint differently, either by:
- Using a PVC baseboard, which comes in many colors and is flexible; it could look awkward if different types of baseboards are installed (for example, PVC on one side and wood or similar on the other).
or
- Filling the gap between the laminate and the wall with a cork joint strip. This matches the laminate color well, is structurally sound, adapts perfectly to the curve, and looks neat.
As a professional, I wouldn’t extend the laminate right up to the curve; a DIYer likely won’t be able to fit it precisely to the curve (and some full-time tradespeople might struggle as well). Additionally, a gap is needed for structural reasons (to allow for movement of the laminate flooring).
Mooler’s suggestion to repair the wall near the baseboard area is a good one; however, I would handle the joint differently, either by:
- Using a PVC baseboard, which comes in many colors and is flexible; it could look awkward if different types of baseboards are installed (for example, PVC on one side and wood or similar on the other).
or
- Filling the gap between the laminate and the wall with a cork joint strip. This matches the laminate color well, is structurally sound, adapts perfectly to the curve, and looks neat.
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