Hello everyone,
Two years ago, we moved into our house, including the basement.
In the basement, we created a large room, which at the moment and in the future is divided into:
One side hobby room
One side storage/pantry room
I would like to visually separate both areas. I want to do this properly and am thinking of using drywall with gypsum board panels.
Now to my questions, or rather, I would like to get some advice here:
1. Does drywall make the most sense in terms of price/performance here?
2. I would ideally like to install panels on both sides, but without insulation – does that make sense? It’s meant purely as a visual separation.
3. Regarding the door opening: Obviously, a passage is needed, but it does not have to be a hinged door – maybe a sliding option could work, or possibly just leaving it open, since the doorway area is a nice feature visually and it could also be practical to keep the passage permanently open. Of course, planning a door makes sense for the future, but maybe someone has another idea?
4. I am open to suggestions or tips to keep everything as cost-effective as possible.
Thank you very much!!
Two years ago, we moved into our house, including the basement.
In the basement, we created a large room, which at the moment and in the future is divided into:
One side hobby room
One side storage/pantry room
I would like to visually separate both areas. I want to do this properly and am thinking of using drywall with gypsum board panels.
Now to my questions, or rather, I would like to get some advice here:
1. Does drywall make the most sense in terms of price/performance here?
2. I would ideally like to install panels on both sides, but without insulation – does that make sense? It’s meant purely as a visual separation.
3. Regarding the door opening: Obviously, a passage is needed, but it does not have to be a hinged door – maybe a sliding option could work, or possibly just leaving it open, since the doorway area is a nice feature visually and it could also be practical to keep the passage permanently open. Of course, planning a door makes sense for the future, but maybe someone has another idea?
4. I am open to suggestions or tips to keep everything as cost-effective as possible.
Thank you very much!!
Prager91 schrieb:
What is the best approach here? Should I simply cut out the laminate in that area and then glue or screw the profiles onto the screed?Here again is my question – can someone please answer it?
Whether this is that simple, probably no one can tell you – it depends on how the laminate flooring pattern aligns with the position of the partition wall (or not). If in the end only a narrow strip remains somewhere, it not only looks odd (which might be irrelevant for your purposes) but may also not hold properly.
It probably won’t be that easy, because you will likely need to allow for an expansion gap at the (future) doorway area – especially if the rooms will experience significant temperature differences. For this reason alone, extra effort will be needed to adjust the laminate there.
In the worst case, you might have to remove the laminate first and then re-install it accordingly (possibly starting differently, etc.) – depending on your expectations.
However, keep in mind to provide sufficient space both for the wall itself (including cladding!) and for the laminate’s expansion zone – it must not be placed directly against the finished wall.
Otherwise, once you have clearance on site, screw in the profiles – generally always better, unless you have underfloor heating. But remember to use the decoupling tape on the back of the profile.
It probably won’t be that easy, because you will likely need to allow for an expansion gap at the (future) doorway area – especially if the rooms will experience significant temperature differences. For this reason alone, extra effort will be needed to adjust the laminate there.
In the worst case, you might have to remove the laminate first and then re-install it accordingly (possibly starting differently, etc.) – depending on your expectations.
However, keep in mind to provide sufficient space both for the wall itself (including cladding!) and for the laminate’s expansion zone – it must not be placed directly against the finished wall.
Otherwise, once you have clearance on site, screw in the profiles – generally always better, unless you have underfloor heating. But remember to use the decoupling tape on the back of the profile.
Harakiri schrieb:
Whether this will be that simple, probably no one can tell you – it depends on how the laminate flooring pattern aligns with the position of the partition wall (or if it doesn’t). If in the end there is just a narrow strip left somewhere, it looks awkward (which might be irrelevant for your purpose) and might not hold properly.
It probably won’t be that easy because you’ll likely need to include an expansion gap in the (future) door area – especially if the rooms will have significant temperature differences. For that reason alone, some additional effort will be needed to adjust the laminate.
In the worst case, you might have to remove the laminate first and then reinstall it accordingly (maybe start differently, etc.) – depending on your standards.
Just remember to allow enough space both for the wall itself (including its sheathing) and for the laminate’s expansion zone – it shouldn't be placed directly against the future wall.
Otherwise, as soon as you have clearance, screw on the profiles – generally always better, except when you have underfloor heating. Also, don’t forget the decoupling tape on the back of the profile. I had almost expected that – it all sounds like a lot of work and currently seems difficult to implement…
I’m a bit overwhelmed at the moment…
- A curtain is a no-go for me
- Drywall construction like this is too much effort
--> What closed solution would be relatively easy to implement? Does anyone have ideas? In the price range up to 500€ (similar to drywall)?
M
MachsSelbst20 Dec 2024 10:44Where should the problem be? You simply cut out the width of the drywall partition plus 10-12mm (about half an inch) on both sides and place the wall on the screed, possibly with a sound insulation underlay. Done. If the laminate floor currently installed as a floating floor over a large area doesn’t cause any issues, it won’t cause any problems afterwards either. On the contrary, with the additional double gap towards the new partition wall, it even has much more room to "move"... although laminate, unlike floating parquet, hardly "moves" at all.
However, beyond a certain room size, a movement joint is recommended depending on the installation direction.
If you want it to be long-lasting and done properly, it has to be drywall. This is simply the preferred method, and quite a few budget home builders nowadays use drywall for non-load-bearing walls on the upper floor as standard.
Alternatively, you could also build a wall from aerated concrete. Aerated concrete is easy to work with—you need a handsaw, a trowel, a bucket for the adhesive, and mortar underneath to level the first row. No rocket science.
Advantage:
You don’t need to worry about the door frame; the frame is simply installed with foam into the opening.
Disadvantage:
You have to plaster the wall, otherwise it won’t look good.
But you’re going to have to accept a compromise, unfortunately.
If it’s supposed to be solid and durable, it will definitely be more complex than you thought and will cost more than 500 EUR. Even the cheapest hollow core door at Türenheld is priced at 199 EUR, white lacquer basic, plus frame foam, plus tools. Sliding doors start at 450 EUR.
However, beyond a certain room size, a movement joint is recommended depending on the installation direction.
If you want it to be long-lasting and done properly, it has to be drywall. This is simply the preferred method, and quite a few budget home builders nowadays use drywall for non-load-bearing walls on the upper floor as standard.
Alternatively, you could also build a wall from aerated concrete. Aerated concrete is easy to work with—you need a handsaw, a trowel, a bucket for the adhesive, and mortar underneath to level the first row. No rocket science.
Advantage:
You don’t need to worry about the door frame; the frame is simply installed with foam into the opening.
Disadvantage:
You have to plaster the wall, otherwise it won’t look good.
But you’re going to have to accept a compromise, unfortunately.
If it’s supposed to be solid and durable, it will definitely be more complex than you thought and will cost more than 500 EUR. Even the cheapest hollow core door at Türenheld is priced at 199 EUR, white lacquer basic, plus frame foam, plus tools. Sliding doors start at 450 EUR.
M
MachsSelbst20 Dec 2024 10:51Although... when building a aerated concrete wall, it might be better to remove the screed and lay the blocks directly on the slab?
That option is probably off the table, also because of the considerable effort required for plastering.
That option is probably off the table, also because of the considerable effort required for plastering.
MachsSelbst schrieb:
Where should the problem be? You simply cut out the width of the drywall partition plus 10-12mm (0.4-0.5 inches) on each side and place the wall onto the screed, possibly with a soundproofing underlay. Done. If the laminate floor, which is installed floating over a large area, hasn’t caused any issues so far, it won’t after either. On the contrary, the additional double gap towards the new partition actually gives even more space for it to "expand"... although laminate, unlike floating parquet, generally expands very little.
But depending on the installation direction and room size, an expansion joint is recommended anyway.
If you want it done properly and durable for the long term, drywall is the way to go. It’s the standard solution nowadays, and many budget-conscious home builders use drywall for non-load-bearing walls on the upper floor as standard.
Alternatively, you could simply build a wall from aerated concrete blocks. Aerated concrete is easy to work with; you just need a handsaw, a trowel, a bucket for the adhesive, and mortar underneath to level the first row. No magic involved.
Advantages:
You don’t have to worry about the door frame; it simply fits into the opening with foam.
Disadvantage:
You have to plaster the wall afterwards; otherwise, it won’t look good.
But unfortunately, you’ll have to bite the bullet. If you want it done properly and permanently, it will definitely be more complicated than you thought and cost more than 500 EUR. The cheapest hollow core door at Türenheld costs 199 EUR, white lacquer basic finish, plus frame foam, plus tools. Sliding doors start at 450 EUR.Okay – that was basically my question. Ultimately, you just cut the laminate to the width of the drywall partition and place the wall on the screed.
The laminate floor is installed floating over the entire length of the room (10 meters (33 feet)). So the room will be divided roughly in the middle by the drywall partition.
I want it done properly too – that’s why drywall was my preference.
A wall made of aerated concrete might actually be an option when I think about it. I could imagine the construction might be easier, especially regarding the door. The only issue could be the dust from working with aerated concrete blocks, since I don’t want to have to empty the entire basement.
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