ᐅ Substructure for facade with rhombus-shaped cladding boards without insulation
Created on: 22 May 2020 09:26
A
abc12345
Hello everyone,
To visually enhance the entrance area, we would like to install rhombus cladding on the facade. The area measures 5 meters (16.4 feet) in length and 3 meters (9.8 feet) in height.
I have already ordered the rhombus cladding boards (untreated Siberian larch). I plan to apply a clear wood stain.
The wood will be installed on the north side of the facade, so it is not exposed to direct sunlight. Only a bit of morning sun reaches it early in the day.
The facade is already plastered and painted, with the staircase located behind it.
I want to skip insulation since this is purely for decorative purposes.
Now my question is how I should build the substructure.
My plan was simply to screw a timber batten onto the facade, then staple a black vapor-permeable underlay membrane over it, seal the overlaps with appropriate tape, and finally screw the rhombus profiles onto that.
Is this approach feasible?
What minimum thickness should the substructure have? I think a 40 x 60 mm (1.6 x 2.4 inches) spruce timber batten might be oversized, right?
Would a simple roof batten of 24 x 48 mm (1.0 x 1.9 inches) be sufficient?
To visually enhance the entrance area, we would like to install rhombus cladding on the facade. The area measures 5 meters (16.4 feet) in length and 3 meters (9.8 feet) in height.
I have already ordered the rhombus cladding boards (untreated Siberian larch). I plan to apply a clear wood stain.
The wood will be installed on the north side of the facade, so it is not exposed to direct sunlight. Only a bit of morning sun reaches it early in the day.
The facade is already plastered and painted, with the staircase located behind it.
I want to skip insulation since this is purely for decorative purposes.
Now my question is how I should build the substructure.
My plan was simply to screw a timber batten onto the facade, then staple a black vapor-permeable underlay membrane over it, seal the overlaps with appropriate tape, and finally screw the rhombus profiles onto that.
Is this approach feasible?
What minimum thickness should the substructure have? I think a 40 x 60 mm (1.6 x 2.4 inches) spruce timber batten might be oversized, right?
Would a simple roof batten of 24 x 48 mm (1.0 x 1.9 inches) be sufficient?
B
Brainstorming24 May 2020 20:09We are getting something similar as well. However, we have a thinner brick (17.5cm (7 inches) instead of 36.5cm (14 inches)) at this spot. According to the architect’s drawing, a 14cm (5.5 inches) insulation layer is to be applied to the masonry, followed by a membrane, then an air gap of 4cm (1.5 inches), and finally the wooden cladding.
Maybe this information helps you in your case.
Maybe this information helps you in your case.
Hello abc12345,
thank you for your inspiration. I just asked here as well and had overlooked your post.
I also want to clad a house wall with rhombus battens. However, my facade is damaged and therefore no longer protected from rain without sustaining further damage.
I was planning to staple the membrane directly to the house wall. It is breathable after all.
For the counter battens, I thought about cutting strips from the membrane and attaching them to the battens so they would be black.
Are you sure about installing the membrane on the counter battens? I haven't found any information on that yet.
I am not adding any additional insulation either.
thank you for your inspiration. I just asked here as well and had overlooked your post.
I also want to clad a house wall with rhombus battens. However, my facade is damaged and therefore no longer protected from rain without sustaining further damage.
I was planning to staple the membrane directly to the house wall. It is breathable after all.
For the counter battens, I thought about cutting strips from the membrane and attaching them to the battens so they would be black.
Are you sure about installing the membrane on the counter battens? I haven't found any information on that yet.
I am not adding any additional insulation either.
Hello Lumpi,
The profiles with shadow gaps are also significantly more expensive. I found two suppliers for these and have them in mind. But as I said, they are costly. I find the price excessive. Using film and regular trims is cheaper. It is also a question how durable the black shadow gap is against weather conditions.
The profiles with shadow gaps are also significantly more expensive. I found two suppliers for these and have them in mind. But as I said, they are costly. I find the price excessive. Using film and regular trims is cheaper. It is also a question how durable the black shadow gap is against weather conditions.
Lumpi_LE schrieb:
It's a pity that you already ordered the profiles; there is a tongue-and-groove option with a shadow gap, which looks much better.
Use larch wood and oil it instead of staining. These are basically two completely different styles. It's a matter of personal preference.
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