Hello everyone, next week our windows are going to be planned, and I want to gather some information beforehand about what we should choose. A window manufacturer we spoke with a few months ago recommended ALUPLAST IDEAL8000 PVC windows. The specifications are:
- 6-chamber system
- Installation depth: 85 mm (3.3 inches)
- Steel reinforcement fully enclosed in the frame
- Misalignment lock (tilt-and-turn windows)
- Hardware equipped with two anti-burglary locking points per window sash
- System with 3 seals
- Glazing with insulating glass units up to 51 mm (2 inches) thick
- Standard glazing is 4th/18Ar/4/18Ar/4th [Ug=0.5]
- Option for concealed hardware available
- Recommended for building passive houses
We are planning a 170 sqm (1,830 sq ft) single-family house, built with T10 solid bricks. No ventilation system and no additional insulation. The bricks comply with the energy-saving regulations but not with KFW standards. There will be a wood stove in the living room. I have considered the following three points:
- Sound insulation
Our house will be built on a moderately busy street. A few hundred meters away there is a school, which means that a few buses pass by on the north side of the house in the morning and at noon. Otherwise, the area is fairly quiet. Aluplast states the IDEAL8000 window has a sound insulation rating of 48 dB. Does this mean that if I assume 100 dB from the street noise, I subtract 48 dB, and the remaining 52 dB would be audible inside the house? Of course, this is just theoretical, but having a rough idea like this would probably help me. I would like the interior to be quite quiet, so good sound insulation is important. There are no significant noise sources on the other sides of the house.
- Thermal insulation
Since our house will not meet KFW55 or similar standards, we have no special requirements. IDEAL8000 is triple-glazed and “suitable for a passive house” (which sounds like marketing to me). We will have five large patio windows on the south side, which will by far be the warmest side. There is an additional option called “warm edge” for the windows. As I understand it, the edges of the glass inside the window are additionally insulated by the frame. Is it possible that the window insulates “too well” and this could cause, for example, condensation or other unwanted effects?
- Security
We will live in a rural area where there are practically no break-ins. Still, I would like somewhat more than the usual protection. After all, you only build once, and the windows should remain in place for a long time. Therefore, I would choose the additional option of concealed hardware. Does that make sense, or are these hardware solutions easy for burglars to overcome? I understand that a burglar will get in if they really want to, but I would like to delay them as long as possible.
Thanks in advance for your opinions.
- 6-chamber system
- Installation depth: 85 mm (3.3 inches)
- Steel reinforcement fully enclosed in the frame
- Misalignment lock (tilt-and-turn windows)
- Hardware equipped with two anti-burglary locking points per window sash
- System with 3 seals
- Glazing with insulating glass units up to 51 mm (2 inches) thick
- Standard glazing is 4th/18Ar/4/18Ar/4th [Ug=0.5]
- Option for concealed hardware available
- Recommended for building passive houses
We are planning a 170 sqm (1,830 sq ft) single-family house, built with T10 solid bricks. No ventilation system and no additional insulation. The bricks comply with the energy-saving regulations but not with KFW standards. There will be a wood stove in the living room. I have considered the following three points:
- Sound insulation
Our house will be built on a moderately busy street. A few hundred meters away there is a school, which means that a few buses pass by on the north side of the house in the morning and at noon. Otherwise, the area is fairly quiet. Aluplast states the IDEAL8000 window has a sound insulation rating of 48 dB. Does this mean that if I assume 100 dB from the street noise, I subtract 48 dB, and the remaining 52 dB would be audible inside the house? Of course, this is just theoretical, but having a rough idea like this would probably help me. I would like the interior to be quite quiet, so good sound insulation is important. There are no significant noise sources on the other sides of the house.
- Thermal insulation
Since our house will not meet KFW55 or similar standards, we have no special requirements. IDEAL8000 is triple-glazed and “suitable for a passive house” (which sounds like marketing to me). We will have five large patio windows on the south side, which will by far be the warmest side. There is an additional option called “warm edge” for the windows. As I understand it, the edges of the glass inside the window are additionally insulated by the frame. Is it possible that the window insulates “too well” and this could cause, for example, condensation or other unwanted effects?
- Security
We will live in a rural area where there are practically no break-ins. Still, I would like somewhat more than the usual protection. After all, you only build once, and the windows should remain in place for a long time. Therefore, I would choose the additional option of concealed hardware. Does that make sense, or are these hardware solutions easy for burglars to overcome? I understand that a burglar will get in if they really want to, but I would like to delay them as long as possible.
Thanks in advance for your opinions.
Joedreck schrieb:
You are contradicting yourself on all points.
Sound insulation is important. There are windows with special soundproof glass. But you are building with “lightweight” bricks.
Therefore, you should change the windows and use sand-lime brick with external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS) or a brick veneer facade.
The windows are also not very burglary-resistant. There are classification categories for that. Just google them and order accordingly.
You don’t need to worry about condensation. More important is shading in summer. Why is that a contradiction? Regarding the bricks, our builder told us that external noise is not the main issue, but rather sound transmission inside the building is higher with bricks, which can be a problem in multi-family houses, for example.
Regarding burglary resistance, do you mean RC2 and RC3 classifications? As far as I understand, the concealed fittings meet the RC2N standard. But I’m happy to be corrected.
What exactly do you mean by shading? The brightness entering the rooms in summer?
11ant schrieb:
Is this still about this house?
https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/langes-schmales-Grundstück-170-190-qm.30954/page-3#post-332187
The number of chambers is a misleading argument. I had already looked at the profile and found no faults with it. The MD variant is a good choice. Correct, that is the house. I have already noticed the chamber issue; unfortunately, it’s not easy for a layperson to tell what is just marketing. Sorry, but what exactly do you mean by “MD”?
Thank you very much for your responses.
Ben-man schrieb:
What exactly do you mean by "MD"?You wroteBen-man schrieb:
- System equipped with 3 sealsI understand that as the presence of a middle seal.https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
Yes, as a construction company, I would say that to attract you as a customer. @Nordlys can confirm this. But he lives in a quiet environment and doesn’t mind.
The fact is: mass blocks sound. Well-insulating bricks have a lot of air and little mass. This usually doesn’t bother most homeowners. However, you seem to be sensitive to it. In that case, the windows won’t make much difference.
Yes, I mean the standards. But that includes the entire window installation, not just “one part meets the requirement.” Since that’s important to you, make sure you get the full standard compliance, not just one component of the window. You might also want to consider dealing with an alarm system early on.
The fact is: mass blocks sound. Well-insulating bricks have a lot of air and little mass. This usually doesn’t bother most homeowners. However, you seem to be sensitive to it. In that case, the windows won’t make much difference.
Yes, I mean the standards. But that includes the entire window installation, not just “one part meets the requirement.” Since that’s important to you, make sure you get the full standard compliance, not just one component of the window. You might also want to consider dealing with an alarm system early on.
Joedreck schrieb:
The fact is: mass reduces sound transmission.It actually doesn't, because: how could it absorb it?https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
Sound is known to travel in waves. This means that with airborne noise, the air is set into vibration. When these vibrations hit a solid object, the sound waves must cause the air inside the house to vibrate as well. This becomes more difficult as the mass of the object increases.
Impact sound behaves differently, for example. In this case, the general contractor (GU) mentioned by the original poster (TE) is correct. However, this does not apply to the sound of cars outside the house.
Impact sound behaves differently, for example. In this case, the general contractor (GU) mentioned by the original poster (TE) is correct. However, this does not apply to the sound of cars outside the house.
I’m bringing up the topic again regarding the window planning. Our general contractor didn’t advise against it because it’s cheaper; the cost wasn’t an issue for them, and they knew that. However, what they already knew at that time, but I didn’t mention in my first post, is that a high wall is planned along the street. Maybe they have already taken this into account, I don’t know. I will clarify everything during the appointment. In any case, thank you very much for the responses; I was somewhat concerned about condensation on the window or something similar.
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