Hello everyone,
Since I plan to move into my newly purchased property in 3 months and no plumber is available to install the new drinking water pipes, I am thinking of doing it myself.
Stainless steel pipes with a press fitting system will be used. The heating system will be newly installed by a professional plumber.
Since I have little knowledge about sizing, I am turning to you for advice.
It’s a bungalow. The bathroom is located below, meaning I will run the pipes up along the left and right sides of the wall to supply the washbasin and toilet, and on the other side the bathtub with shower. Then, through the wall, I will connect to the kitchen sink and dishwasher. It’s not really complicated, but how large should the pipes be?
I have attached a picture. What do you think?
Is 18mm (3/4 inch) hot water pipe enough for circulation?
18mm (3/4 inch) cold water pipe for the washing machine?
15mm (1/2 inch) cold water pipe for the dishwasher?
I would be very grateful for any advice you can give.
Since I plan to move into my newly purchased property in 3 months and no plumber is available to install the new drinking water pipes, I am thinking of doing it myself.
Stainless steel pipes with a press fitting system will be used. The heating system will be newly installed by a professional plumber.
Since I have little knowledge about sizing, I am turning to you for advice.
It’s a bungalow. The bathroom is located below, meaning I will run the pipes up along the left and right sides of the wall to supply the washbasin and toilet, and on the other side the bathtub with shower. Then, through the wall, I will connect to the kitchen sink and dishwasher. It’s not really complicated, but how large should the pipes be?
I have attached a picture. What do you think?
Is 18mm (3/4 inch) hot water pipe enough for circulation?
18mm (3/4 inch) cold water pipe for the washing machine?
15mm (1/2 inch) cold water pipe for the dishwasher?
I would be very grateful for any advice you can give.
Why shouldn’t you be allowed to do it yourself? I would also stay away from the electrical panel, but water pipes?
Without knowing the layout of the pipes and thus the number of fixture outlets, it’s hard to say. The hot water recirculation lines here are installed as 3/4 inch pipes (they connect the shower and the washbasin in series), and the cold water lines are the same. These run throughout the entire house. For individual pipes supplying a dishwasher or washing machine, 15 mm (1/2 inch) is definitely sufficient.
Best regards,
Andreas
BeHaElJa schrieb:
I think sizing the pipes isn’t the difficult part... but doing it yourself? Are you even allowed to? I wouldn’t do it myself.
Without knowing the layout of the pipes and thus the number of fixture outlets, it’s hard to say. The hot water recirculation lines here are installed as 3/4 inch pipes (they connect the shower and the washbasin in series), and the cold water lines are the same. These run throughout the entire house. For individual pipes supplying a dishwasher or washing machine, 15 mm (1/2 inch) is definitely sufficient.
Best regards,
Andreas
As you have drawn it, this won’t work.
Hot water:
First, you need to avoid dead-end pipes due to the risk of legionella. Secondly, you basically have a parallel circuit where the hot water takes the shortest path. Instead, route all consumers ring-shaped from your buffer tank. This has two advantages: 1. You can reduce the pipe diameter because water can flow through both pipes if needed, and 2. It prevents dead-end pipes. There are special fittings with two connections, or if you insist on using stainless steel, install a T-piece a few centimeters before.
Cold water:
The same principle applies as for hot water. A ring-shaped layout is ideal, but if that’s not possible, avoid dead-end pipes and connect the consumers in sequence. Place the toilet as the last consumer. This ensures that the pipes are always flushed and prevents stagnant water spots caused by lack of use.
Also, the previous commenters are right. According to drinking water regulations, it is generally not allowed to install water pipes inside the house yourself. As long as nothing happens, no one cares, but if something does happen, there could be serious issues—not just water damage but personal injury.
Hot water:
First, you need to avoid dead-end pipes due to the risk of legionella. Secondly, you basically have a parallel circuit where the hot water takes the shortest path. Instead, route all consumers ring-shaped from your buffer tank. This has two advantages: 1. You can reduce the pipe diameter because water can flow through both pipes if needed, and 2. It prevents dead-end pipes. There are special fittings with two connections, or if you insist on using stainless steel, install a T-piece a few centimeters before.
Cold water:
The same principle applies as for hot water. A ring-shaped layout is ideal, but if that’s not possible, avoid dead-end pipes and connect the consumers in sequence. Place the toilet as the last consumer. This ensures that the pipes are always flushed and prevents stagnant water spots caused by lack of use.
Also, the previous commenters are right. According to drinking water regulations, it is generally not allowed to install water pipes inside the house yourself. As long as nothing happens, no one cares, but if something does happen, there could be serious issues—not just water damage but personal injury.
B
Bieber081512 Sep 2016 15:35Tom1607 schrieb:
Moreover, the previous speakers are correct. According to the drinking water regulations, it is generally not permitted to install water pipes inside the house by yourself. Can you provide a source for that quote? The Federal Environment Agency offers a brochure (also available as a free PDF online) titled "All About Drinking Water." It only recommends that work on the drinking water supply inside the house be carried out by a professional company.
Note: Of course, the work must be done properly, but if this condition is met, in my opinion, it is also allowed to do it yourself; INAL.
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