Hello!
I would like to hear your opinions on the topic of underfloor heating and wooden plank flooring:
I want to have a floor that feels as warm and natural as possible, because it is breathable. Therefore, parquet and laminate are not an option. I find wooden planks ideal, maybe even spruce/fir.
Wooden planks are installed on a special substructure, as far as I have seen... So I could probably save on screed in those areas.
But how do you construct something like this in combination with underfloor heating? Support elements to the concrete slab can only be placed between the pipes/tubes, right?
I would like to hear your opinions on the topic of underfloor heating and wooden plank flooring:
I want to have a floor that feels as warm and natural as possible, because it is breathable. Therefore, parquet and laminate are not an option. I find wooden planks ideal, maybe even spruce/fir.
Wooden planks are installed on a special substructure, as far as I have seen... So I could probably save on screed in those areas.
But how do you construct something like this in combination with underfloor heating? Support elements to the concrete slab can only be placed between the pipes/tubes, right?
C
chand198621 Dec 2018 14:18And using the figures from @Caspar2020, I see that the additional demand for heat production under such a floor construction ranges from zero to low double-digit percentages compared to the "efficiency limit" of 0.15m²K/W (0.85 ft²·°F·h/Btu).
This confirms my view that the claims of "not possible because it’s a total waste of energy" are greatly exaggerated.
This confirms my view that the claims of "not possible because it’s a total waste of energy" are greatly exaggerated.
T
Theodorius21 Dec 2018 14:47Hello and thank you very much for the active participation!
Regarding the thermal transmittance values or a thermal transmittance chain, it should be considered that floorboards are traditionally mounted on a wooden joist substructure. WITHOUT a screed! This is usually referred to as a floating installation...
This is at least problematic because there is only air between the pipes and the floorboards, so no direct contact exists...
Regarding the thermal transmittance values or a thermal transmittance chain, it should be considered that floorboards are traditionally mounted on a wooden joist substructure. WITHOUT a screed! This is usually referred to as a floating installation...
This is at least problematic because there is only air between the pipes and the floorboards, so no direct contact exists...
C
Caspar202021 Dec 2018 14:57Did you even watch the video?
Probably not; because in typical hollow-core slabs with underfloor heating, the gaps are precisely used for the heating pipes. There isn’t much “space” left.
Probably not; because in typical hollow-core slabs with underfloor heating, the gaps are precisely used for the heating pipes. There isn’t much “space” left.
T
Theodorius21 Dec 2018 15:22Actually, I have even checked out the Thermolutz system on their website...
I am working on the theory that heat transfer is only guaranteed if the pipes of the underfloor heating are DIRECTLY and FIRMLY connected to a material with good thermal conductivity...
The Thermolutz option seems very appealing to me! If it works physically, it would of course be a solution...
I am working on the theory that heat transfer is only guaranteed if the pipes of the underfloor heating are DIRECTLY and FIRMLY connected to a material with good thermal conductivity...
The Thermolutz option seems very appealing to me! If it works physically, it would of course be a solution...
F
fach1werk3 Feb 2019 20:37Good evening everyone,
hello Theodorius,
We have untreated oak floorboards installed over underfloor heating. They were treated with linseed oil and are cleaned with a slightly damp cloth using a very rich soap. We have been living with them for two years now; they are – well cared for – really low maintenance, very practical, and look good. Any scratches can easily be sanded out. The boards are solid wood, with grooves milled only on the back to prevent cupping. We chose beveled edges because you won’t be able to make the joints invisible anyway.
We specified the flooring during the planning discussion. The thermal conductivity of the 15mm (0.6 inch) boards is 0.07. That’s almost as good as tiles, and the heating performs similarly.
We fully glued them to the screed. The screed must be ground beforehand. Of course, expansion joints were left out, filled with cork strips. When it comes to adhesive, you have to choose between the devil and the deep blue sea. Roughly speaking: if you want the glue to be emission-free later on, you need to expect emissions during installation. The opposite is true too. You can avoid all that if you lower your demands on the adhesive. There are adhesives that after 10 years turn into fine dust under the boards—that means they were organic. I chose an adhesive that was not too fast-setting and remained somewhat elastic. For this, I read the technical data sheets carefully and checked them against the supplier’s material recommendations. The viscosity was still unexpectedly very high, which cost us some practice time and a lot of cleaning cloths at the start.
We got good and affordable materials, as well as expert advice, from Dielenkontor Nord. I can recommend them in good conscience.
Softwood will never achieve such good values as oak. We would choose oak floorboards again any time. For shorter-lived parquet, you might as well invest the same amount of money.
Best regards,
Gabriele
hello Theodorius,
We have untreated oak floorboards installed over underfloor heating. They were treated with linseed oil and are cleaned with a slightly damp cloth using a very rich soap. We have been living with them for two years now; they are – well cared for – really low maintenance, very practical, and look good. Any scratches can easily be sanded out. The boards are solid wood, with grooves milled only on the back to prevent cupping. We chose beveled edges because you won’t be able to make the joints invisible anyway.
We specified the flooring during the planning discussion. The thermal conductivity of the 15mm (0.6 inch) boards is 0.07. That’s almost as good as tiles, and the heating performs similarly.
We fully glued them to the screed. The screed must be ground beforehand. Of course, expansion joints were left out, filled with cork strips. When it comes to adhesive, you have to choose between the devil and the deep blue sea. Roughly speaking: if you want the glue to be emission-free later on, you need to expect emissions during installation. The opposite is true too. You can avoid all that if you lower your demands on the adhesive. There are adhesives that after 10 years turn into fine dust under the boards—that means they were organic. I chose an adhesive that was not too fast-setting and remained somewhat elastic. For this, I read the technical data sheets carefully and checked them against the supplier’s material recommendations. The viscosity was still unexpectedly very high, which cost us some practice time and a lot of cleaning cloths at the start.
We got good and affordable materials, as well as expert advice, from Dielenkontor Nord. I can recommend them in good conscience.
Softwood will never achieve such good values as oak. We would choose oak floorboards again any time. For shorter-lived parquet, you might as well invest the same amount of money.
Best regards,
Gabriele
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