ᐅ Recess for camera installation in external thermal insulation system
Created on: 10 Oct 2024 17:25
F
Flitz86Hello,
I am currently finalizing my electrical planning and installation for the exterior area.
My exterior wall consists of a 6cm (2.4 inches) thick wood fiberboard (complete wall assembly from outside to inside: 6cm wood fiberboard, 20cm (8 inches) mineral wool insulation with 0.35 W/mK, 1.5cm (0.6 inches) OSB, 6cm (2.4 inches) installation cavity with 6cm (2.4 inches) mineral wool insulation with 0.40 W/mK, 1.5cm (0.6 inches) OSB, and 1.25cm (0.5 inches) gypsum board).
I want to install a few cameras outdoors (G5 Turret Ultra). The camera itself has a connection cable that needs to be concealed somewhere, plus the network cable with a connector coming from the house.
My first idea was to use a Kaiser Econ Iso + box and mount the camera on it. However, the diameter doesn’t fit: the box is too large, or the camera base is too small. Either way, it doesn’t look right. I haven’t found another suitable box for wood fiberboard yet.
Option 2 would be to use a conduit and try to connect and push back the cable inside. However, this would not be completely sealed, potentially allowing air or moisture to enter my installation cavity. Of course, it would be possible to foam and seal the conduit from the inside.
Option 3: Mill or drill a recess with a diameter of 3-4cm (1.2-1.6 inches) and a depth of 3cm (1.2 inches) (about 50% of the wood fiberboard thickness), feed the network cable from inside to there, and have everything plastered normally over it. Then install the camera above.
Do you see any problem with Option 3 regarding weakening the insulation or wood fiberboard too much and creating a thermal bridge?
It wouldn’t be much different with the box anyway (there is also some weakening with sockets, etc.).
Best regards
I am currently finalizing my electrical planning and installation for the exterior area.
My exterior wall consists of a 6cm (2.4 inches) thick wood fiberboard (complete wall assembly from outside to inside: 6cm wood fiberboard, 20cm (8 inches) mineral wool insulation with 0.35 W/mK, 1.5cm (0.6 inches) OSB, 6cm (2.4 inches) installation cavity with 6cm (2.4 inches) mineral wool insulation with 0.40 W/mK, 1.5cm (0.6 inches) OSB, and 1.25cm (0.5 inches) gypsum board).
I want to install a few cameras outdoors (G5 Turret Ultra). The camera itself has a connection cable that needs to be concealed somewhere, plus the network cable with a connector coming from the house.
My first idea was to use a Kaiser Econ Iso + box and mount the camera on it. However, the diameter doesn’t fit: the box is too large, or the camera base is too small. Either way, it doesn’t look right. I haven’t found another suitable box for wood fiberboard yet.
Option 2 would be to use a conduit and try to connect and push back the cable inside. However, this would not be completely sealed, potentially allowing air or moisture to enter my installation cavity. Of course, it would be possible to foam and seal the conduit from the inside.
Option 3: Mill or drill a recess with a diameter of 3-4cm (1.2-1.6 inches) and a depth of 3cm (1.2 inches) (about 50% of the wood fiberboard thickness), feed the network cable from inside to there, and have everything plastered normally over it. Then install the camera above.
Do you see any problem with Option 3 regarding weakening the insulation or wood fiberboard too much and creating a thermal bridge?
It wouldn’t be much different with the box anyway (there is also some weakening with sockets, etc.).
Best regards
Why not use a Kaiser universal/system device carrier? Specifically, either the 1159-24 or 9966.21 model. They offer a mounting plate that can be plastered over, and if the built-in opening is too small or the system plates for flush-mounted boxes are too large, you can cut a bigger or smaller opening as needed. Inside, you then have more than enough space for cables and any necessary wiring connections, while everything remains properly insulated.
For all solutions, however, the sealing (moisture/airtightness) should already be ensured where the cables pass through the OSB board, using an appropriate sleeve.
For all solutions, however, the sealing (moisture/airtightness) should already be ensured where the cables pass through the OSB board, using an appropriate sleeve.
Hi @Harakiri,
I’m using the universal device carriers (1159-24) for my "older building" which is insulated with 10cm (4 inches) mineral wool. These parts are really practical here (screwed to the wall and then the insulation thickness can be adjusted).
In this particular case, however, there is only a 6cm (2.4 inches) wood fiber board with insulation behind it. So, there’s nothing to screw into. Would you extend the carriers up to the OSB board (i.e., 6cm (2.4 inches) wood fiber plus 20cm (8 inches) compressed insulation) and screw them there?
What I have found now is the universal installation box (item no.: 1095-22). This would actually suit my purpose perfectly – but it’s neither insulated nor airtight. I’m not sure if that might cause issues…
I could cut out the wood fiber board accordingly and screw the box in horizontally.
Best regards,
Chris
I’m using the universal device carriers (1159-24) for my "older building" which is insulated with 10cm (4 inches) mineral wool. These parts are really practical here (screwed to the wall and then the insulation thickness can be adjusted).
In this particular case, however, there is only a 6cm (2.4 inches) wood fiber board with insulation behind it. So, there’s nothing to screw into. Would you extend the carriers up to the OSB board (i.e., 6cm (2.4 inches) wood fiber plus 20cm (8 inches) compressed insulation) and screw them there?
What I have found now is the universal installation box (item no.: 1095-22). This would actually suit my purpose perfectly – but it’s neither insulated nor airtight. I’m not sure if that might cause issues…
I could cut out the wood fiber board accordingly and screw the box in horizontally.
Best regards,
Chris
Of course, the mounting rails can be extended through the extensions; I believe they can compensate for insulation thicknesses of up to 360 mm (14 inches). This also gives you some flexibility for the future if you want to attach something else there—always considering the allowable load for the cantilever, of course.
As long as the wood fiber board allows for side screwing, the solution with the 1095-22 is certainly possible—as mentioned, the sealing should be done behind the insulation anyway. In the flush-mounted box (however it is designed), there should be at most one additional sealing layer.
As long as the wood fiber board allows for side screwing, the solution with the 1095-22 is certainly possible—as mentioned, the sealing should be done behind the insulation anyway. In the flush-mounted box (however it is designed), there should be at most one additional sealing layer.
Flitz86 schrieb:
I have a general question:
Should I run the cable or conduit with the cable directly through the vapor barrier?
As I understand it, a conduit always acts as a bridge that allows moisture to pass through...
But you often see it done that way!
Regards OK... there are special sealing plugs available for this situation.
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