ᐅ Preparation for Terrace Roof Installation before External Thermal Insulation Composite System (ETICS)
Created on: 2 May 2025 22:43
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Wusler86Hello everyone,
I am currently planning to insulate the facade of my house with an 18 cm (7 inch) thick external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS). This year, I want to install a 6 m (20 ft) wide aluminum patio roof with laminated safety glass (VSG) on this facade.
Since multiple fixing points will be needed for the roof, I want to prepare the facade now in a way that allows for secure and as thermally efficient as possible attachments later on, minimizing thermal bridges.
My questions for you:
• How can I best prepare the facade if the exact positions of the drill holes are not yet finalized?
• Are there proven solutions to safely transfer high loads into the facade later?
• How would you generally approach this?
Thanks in advance for your advice!
I am currently planning to insulate the facade of my house with an 18 cm (7 inch) thick external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS). This year, I want to install a 6 m (20 ft) wide aluminum patio roof with laminated safety glass (VSG) on this facade.
Since multiple fixing points will be needed for the roof, I want to prepare the facade now in a way that allows for secure and as thermally efficient as possible attachments later on, minimizing thermal bridges.
My questions for you:
• How can I best prepare the facade if the exact positions of the drill holes are not yet finalized?
• Are there proven solutions to safely transfer high loads into the facade later?
• How would you generally approach this?
Thanks in advance for your advice!
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Allthewayup3 May 2025 12:48I wouldn’t do anything there beforehand. The risk that the height won’t fit later is far too high. Finish the ETICS first, and for attaching the wall profile, use the brackets mentioned in the previous post. Doing anything else would be like “putting your coat on before your undershirt” and is not effective.
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Oberhäslich3 May 2025 21:12Thermax anchors/screws from Fischer. Can be installed afterwards.
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MachsSelbst5 May 2025 14:32I would do it the way almost 100% of my neighbors do.
Set the canopy on four posts, with two of them directly against the facade.
You won’t achieve a thermal bridge-free solution this way. Some brackets are made of steel, the canopy is made of aluminum. And the bracket has to be fixed directly to the masonry—how is it possible to avoid a thermal bridge then? The brackets also need to be large enough to support snow loads, wind loads, and so on. What type of masonry do you have? Is this even structurally feasible? I would never do this without having a structural engineer calculate it.
A 6x4m² (20x13 ft²) terrace canopy can hold about 1.5 tons (1.65 US tons) of snow during a heavy winter. That’s like the weight of a car.
As someone else already mentioned: once the house, terrace, etc., are fixed at that height, it can only go wrong.
My philosophy is to drill as few holes in the facade as possible. In five years, you might want something completely different, and then you’re stuck with a problem.
Set the canopy on four posts, with two of them directly against the facade.
You won’t achieve a thermal bridge-free solution this way. Some brackets are made of steel, the canopy is made of aluminum. And the bracket has to be fixed directly to the masonry—how is it possible to avoid a thermal bridge then? The brackets also need to be large enough to support snow loads, wind loads, and so on. What type of masonry do you have? Is this even structurally feasible? I would never do this without having a structural engineer calculate it.
A 6x4m² (20x13 ft²) terrace canopy can hold about 1.5 tons (1.65 US tons) of snow during a heavy winter. That’s like the weight of a car.
As someone else already mentioned: once the house, terrace, etc., are fixed at that height, it can only go wrong.
My philosophy is to drill as few holes in the facade as possible. In five years, you might want something completely different, and then you’re stuck with a problem.
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