Hello!
I am new to the forum and have heard that you can get great advice here.
You can already see my question above. I need a few more details and would like to explain the current situation:
We have bought a house (built in 1948). The attic is currently converted, but only partially insulated with glass wool (without a vapor barrier, etc.). Our plan is to completely gut it. After that, the bare beams and roof tiles will be visible. There is no membrane protecting the insulation from water or snow.
The beams are about 11 cm (4.3 inches) wide. Our stone wool insulation is 16 cm (6.3 inches) thick. Since we want to install battens for ventilation directly in front of the tiles, about 3 cm (1.2 inches) will be “lost” from the 11 cm (4.3 inches). How can the roof beams then be increased from the remaining 8 cm (3.1 inches) to 16 cm (6.3 inches)?
We have seen that some people simply screw boards onto the roof beams. This raises the following questions for us:
- How thick should the board be? Should it be 16 cm (6.3 inches) or smaller?
- Is a width of 3 cm (1.2 inches) enough to allow installation of a vapor barrier, a cross batten, insulation below the rafters, and gypsum board on top?
- At what intervals are the boards screwed on?
- What kind of screws should be used?
- How much overlap is needed between the roof beam and the board?
- Should one board be attached on each side of a roof beam, or is one side enough?
Or is there an easier or more cost-effective method to do this?
We would be grateful for any answers!
Best regards
I am new to the forum and have heard that you can get great advice here.
You can already see my question above. I need a few more details and would like to explain the current situation:
We have bought a house (built in 1948). The attic is currently converted, but only partially insulated with glass wool (without a vapor barrier, etc.). Our plan is to completely gut it. After that, the bare beams and roof tiles will be visible. There is no membrane protecting the insulation from water or snow.
The beams are about 11 cm (4.3 inches) wide. Our stone wool insulation is 16 cm (6.3 inches) thick. Since we want to install battens for ventilation directly in front of the tiles, about 3 cm (1.2 inches) will be “lost” from the 11 cm (4.3 inches). How can the roof beams then be increased from the remaining 8 cm (3.1 inches) to 16 cm (6.3 inches)?
We have seen that some people simply screw boards onto the roof beams. This raises the following questions for us:
- How thick should the board be? Should it be 16 cm (6.3 inches) or smaller?
- Is a width of 3 cm (1.2 inches) enough to allow installation of a vapor barrier, a cross batten, insulation below the rafters, and gypsum board on top?
- At what intervals are the boards screwed on?
- What kind of screws should be used?
- How much overlap is needed between the roof beam and the board?
- Should one board be attached on each side of a roof beam, or is one side enough?
Or is there an easier or more cost-effective method to do this?
We would be grateful for any answers!
Best regards
If I understand you correctly, the entire roof will need to be uncovered for these works anyway.
I’m not very familiar with the whole subject to give you advice on the installation process. Are you planning to carry out these works yourselves?
I ask for the following reason: Would it possibly make sense to completely renew the entire roof structure? The roof will already be uncovered. This way, you or the contractor wouldn’t have to look for “compromise solutions” and work on each individual beam separately (saving time). Additionally, you would have exactly the structure you need and want, which would also be up to current standards.
With the solution you are currently aiming for, there is also the risk that the 70-year-old beams might fail in the near future, meaning you would have to start over again.
In terms of work involved, I can imagine that a completely new roof structure requires less effort than a patchwork approach. Regarding costs, I don’t know—new roofing timber is certainly more expensive. However, if a company carries out the work, it might even be cost-neutral due to the difference in labor required.
I’m not very familiar with the whole subject to give you advice on the installation process. Are you planning to carry out these works yourselves?
I ask for the following reason: Would it possibly make sense to completely renew the entire roof structure? The roof will already be uncovered. This way, you or the contractor wouldn’t have to look for “compromise solutions” and work on each individual beam separately (saving time). Additionally, you would have exactly the structure you need and want, which would also be up to current standards.
With the solution you are currently aiming for, there is also the risk that the 70-year-old beams might fail in the near future, meaning you would have to start over again.
In terms of work involved, I can imagine that a completely new roof structure requires less effort than a patchwork approach. Regarding costs, I don’t know—new roofing timber is certainly more expensive. However, if a company carries out the work, it might even be cost-neutral due to the difference in labor required.
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