ᐅ Decommissioning a Gas Heating System: What Alternative Heating Options Are Available?
Created on: 16 Jan 2023 21:22
W
wiegehabt
Hello dear members,
I have read many posts over the last few hours but have now decided to ask my questions directly.
Here are the basic details of the house:
- We bought a detached single-family home in Baden-Württemberg 1.5 years ago: renovated to energy class C in 2006, originally built in 1969
- Gas heating system from 1995
- 180 sqm (1,938 sq ft) of living space
- Gas consumption in the first full year for four people was 26,000 kWh
- Hot water is supplied via the heating system
- Underfloor heating
Current status:
- During the chimney sweep’s routine maintenance just before Christmas, a CO concentration well above 1000 was detected
- Due to the heating company’s holiday shutdown, a technician only came today: extensive cleaning measures were carried out but without success
- Statement: “Pipes are corroded, apparently no maintenance for at least 4 years”
- After cleaning, the measuring device fluctuates so much that it can no longer display values
- The chimney sweep now wants to shut down the gas heating system
- In the short term, a mobile oil heating system will be used, provided by the heating company
1st question:
- What monthly costs can we expect with such a temporary solution?
2nd question:
- Which type of heating system could help us in the short term and also be a long-term, sensible option?
We actually want a sustainable solution and have considered heat pumps several times. We are not fully convinced by air-source heat pumps, and a ground probe system would likely be a long-term project due to the hillside location.
At the same time, our roof would be suitable for solar thermal panels, and we have a fireplace in the living room that could be converted to a water-bearing stove. So, a hybrid gas heating system mix is also an option.
We also had an energy consultant for a preliminary talk, who concluded after walking through the house that basically all types of heating systems would be possible for us.
We look forward to your ideas and assessments.
Thank you very much and best regards,
Frederik
I have read many posts over the last few hours but have now decided to ask my questions directly.
Here are the basic details of the house:
- We bought a detached single-family home in Baden-Württemberg 1.5 years ago: renovated to energy class C in 2006, originally built in 1969
- Gas heating system from 1995
- 180 sqm (1,938 sq ft) of living space
- Gas consumption in the first full year for four people was 26,000 kWh
- Hot water is supplied via the heating system
- Underfloor heating
Current status:
- During the chimney sweep’s routine maintenance just before Christmas, a CO concentration well above 1000 was detected
- Due to the heating company’s holiday shutdown, a technician only came today: extensive cleaning measures were carried out but without success
- Statement: “Pipes are corroded, apparently no maintenance for at least 4 years”
- After cleaning, the measuring device fluctuates so much that it can no longer display values
- The chimney sweep now wants to shut down the gas heating system
- In the short term, a mobile oil heating system will be used, provided by the heating company
1st question:
- What monthly costs can we expect with such a temporary solution?
2nd question:
- Which type of heating system could help us in the short term and also be a long-term, sensible option?
We actually want a sustainable solution and have considered heat pumps several times. We are not fully convinced by air-source heat pumps, and a ground probe system would likely be a long-term project due to the hillside location.
At the same time, our roof would be suitable for solar thermal panels, and we have a fireplace in the living room that could be converted to a water-bearing stove. So, a hybrid gas heating system mix is also an option.
We also had an energy consultant for a preliminary talk, who concluded after walking through the house that basically all types of heating systems would be possible for us.
We look forward to your ideas and assessments.
Thank you very much and best regards,
Frederik
I also suggest exchanging it for a used gas heating system. Then, set up the rest to be heat pump ready. Improve insulation selectively, seal windows if necessary, insulate roller shutter boxes, etc. Then lower the supply temperature as much as possible and perform a hydraulic balancing.
X
xMisterDx18 Jan 2023 01:04For a house with an energy consumption of nearly 150 kWh/m²/year, you’ll need to do much more than just spot insulation.
From what I understand, you either insulate the entire building envelope or not at all. Spot insulation creates thermal bridges, which will inevitably cause some parts of the walls to become damp, discolored, and develop unpleasant odors over time.
What is your flow temperature?
If the underfloor heating is designed for 50-55°C (122-131°F), it will be twice as challenging to operate a heat pump efficiently...
Maybe it would be better to consider a brand-new gas heating system, add solar thermal panels to the roof, lower the heating temperature by 2°C (3.6°F), and hope that the boiler lasts another 27 years?
From what I understand, you either insulate the entire building envelope or not at all. Spot insulation creates thermal bridges, which will inevitably cause some parts of the walls to become damp, discolored, and develop unpleasant odors over time.
What is your flow temperature?
If the underfloor heating is designed for 50-55°C (122-131°F), it will be twice as challenging to operate a heat pump efficiently...
Maybe it would be better to consider a brand-new gas heating system, add solar thermal panels to the roof, lower the heating temperature by 2°C (3.6°F), and hope that the boiler lasts another 27 years?
xMisterDx schrieb:
For a house with an energy consumption of just under 150 kWh/m²/a, you will need to do a lot more than just "spot" insulation.
Especially since I understand that you either insulate the entire building envelope or not at all. If you insulate only certain spots, you create thermal bridges, which inevitably cause the walls to get moldy and develop unpleasant odors over time.
What is your supply temperature?
Not that the underfloor heating is designed for 50-55°C (122-131°F).
That would make using a heat pump twice as difficult...
Maybe you should rather look for a brand new gas boiler, add solar thermal panels on the roof, lower the heating temperature by 2°C (3.6°F), and hope that the boiler lasts another 27 years? I have no idea what you mean by spot insulation. Certainly not just sticking an insulation panel onto the facade and calling it a day.
In this context, spot insulation means treating the areas with the highest energy losses. Draughty windows, top floor ceiling, basement ceiling—these are all measures with low investment and high benefit.
X
xMisterDx18 Jan 2023 09:08By "selective," I mean exactly what "selective" implies. Applying insulation here and there, but not fully improving or continuously insulating the entire thermal envelope of the house. Otherwise, we would need to discuss precise wording and the consequences of not doing so.
If a layperson follows your suggestion and approaches a company with the idea of wanting to "insulate selectively, where it provides the greatest benefit," the only outcome can be
If a layperson follows your suggestion and approaches a company with the idea of wanting to "insulate selectively, where it provides the greatest benefit," the only outcome can be
just sticking an insulation board onto the facade and calling it done
xMisterDx schrieb:
By "spot insulation," I mean exactly what "spot insulation" means. Adding insulation here and there, but not improving or fully insulating the entire thermal envelope of the house. Otherwise, we would need to discuss exact, precise wording and the consequences if it is not done.
If a layperson follows your suggestion and approaches a company with the idea of wanting to "insulate only spots where it has the greatest benefit," this is the only outcome
that can result.But that assumes the company has as much knowledge as the layperson. The company will explain to the layperson that they won’t just “stick an insulation board in the middle of the house wall” to achieve the desired effect.
At least, that’s what I as a layperson currently experience from the tradespeople involved in my build.
When it comes to insulation, there is a wide range of options between doing nothing and fully insulating. This starts with airtight windows and roller shutter boxes, includes a basement ceiling insulation that costs around 1500€ in East Germany, and extends to insulating heating pipes in the basement.
Facade insulation is a very expensive option that only pays off over several years.
By the way, it is also possible to insulate specific points, quite literally—for example, using wedge insulation for cantilevered balconies.
Finally, it is common practice to clarify the meaning of certain terms to avoid misunderstandings. Unfortunately, this is something you have been unwilling to do.
Facade insulation is a very expensive option that only pays off over several years.
By the way, it is also possible to insulate specific points, quite literally—for example, using wedge insulation for cantilevered balconies.
Finally, it is common practice to clarify the meaning of certain terms to avoid misunderstandings. Unfortunately, this is something you have been unwilling to do.
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