ᐅ Baroque Meets Modernity – New Construction with Heritage Conservation Considerations
Created on: 12 Mar 2024 22:32
C
cryptoki
I’ll jump in midway—our project has been ongoing for 4 years now and is well underway. @11ant, you might still be familiar with our project, and perhaps you’re interested in the current status.
We have a slight slope on the site, which might be noticeable. From one gable to the other, there is a height difference of about 65cm (25.6 inches), meaning the house sits higher at the back. Passersby can hardly look into the lower windows anymore. The house effectively consists of two parts: 1) a classic "baroque" style house with a half-hipped roof, and 2) a modern extension.
In one of the photos, you can clearly see the older, classic part with a pediment. Below it, the main entrance door is centrally located, flanked symmetrically by two windows on each side. The "baroque" section, which borders directly on the sidewalk, houses the utility room and the bathroom. On the lower side, where the window is already quite high relative to the sidewalk, there is the study. The style is clearly historic but not overdone. The street-facing wooden windows have authentic drip edges and mullions, plus a rebate. The windows are positioned quite far forward, at the boundary of the middle third of the façade. The blinds’ tracks are painted traffic white but still need plastering.
The other photo shows the modern extension, which at first glance appears somewhat bulky. On the top floor of the flat-roofed addition is the fireplace room, featuring 3.03m (9 ft 11 in) ceilings up to the exposed ceiling beams. The 240mm (9.4 inches) beams have a 120mm (4.7 inches) free space between them and remain visible inside the room. The fireplace room includes a fixed-glass, 3.25m (10 ft 8 in) wide seating and work window. The modern section also includes the terrace area. On the ground floor, beneath the terrace is the kitchen, and below the fireplace room are the living and dining areas. The window frames here are quartz gray on the outside and finished with a natural glaze inside. The room height on the ground floor is about 2.81m (9 ft 3 in) and about 2.76m (9 ft 1 in) on the top floor, with the fireplace room being even taller at 3.03m (9 ft 11 in) and up to 3.15m (10 ft 4 in).
That’s some initial background on the building. If there’s interest, I’m happy to share more details and keep you updated. @hanghaus2023 has a very nice and inspiring thread on this, which motivated me to finally start posting here.
Next steps: The base of the house still needs to be determined. The challenge is that the modern section will have a wooden cladding with rhombus-shaped boards. One option is to start the cladding at the same height as the regular plaster, i.e., above the base. Another is to start the cladding as low as possible so that the floor-to-ceiling windows are almost entirely covered by the wooden cladding. Deciding on the height of the baseboard and how to install the wooden cladding are the current key issues. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated.
Regards
We have a slight slope on the site, which might be noticeable. From one gable to the other, there is a height difference of about 65cm (25.6 inches), meaning the house sits higher at the back. Passersby can hardly look into the lower windows anymore. The house effectively consists of two parts: 1) a classic "baroque" style house with a half-hipped roof, and 2) a modern extension.
In one of the photos, you can clearly see the older, classic part with a pediment. Below it, the main entrance door is centrally located, flanked symmetrically by two windows on each side. The "baroque" section, which borders directly on the sidewalk, houses the utility room and the bathroom. On the lower side, where the window is already quite high relative to the sidewalk, there is the study. The style is clearly historic but not overdone. The street-facing wooden windows have authentic drip edges and mullions, plus a rebate. The windows are positioned quite far forward, at the boundary of the middle third of the façade. The blinds’ tracks are painted traffic white but still need plastering.
The other photo shows the modern extension, which at first glance appears somewhat bulky. On the top floor of the flat-roofed addition is the fireplace room, featuring 3.03m (9 ft 11 in) ceilings up to the exposed ceiling beams. The 240mm (9.4 inches) beams have a 120mm (4.7 inches) free space between them and remain visible inside the room. The fireplace room includes a fixed-glass, 3.25m (10 ft 8 in) wide seating and work window. The modern section also includes the terrace area. On the ground floor, beneath the terrace is the kitchen, and below the fireplace room are the living and dining areas. The window frames here are quartz gray on the outside and finished with a natural glaze inside. The room height on the ground floor is about 2.81m (9 ft 3 in) and about 2.76m (9 ft 1 in) on the top floor, with the fireplace room being even taller at 3.03m (9 ft 11 in) and up to 3.15m (10 ft 4 in).
That’s some initial background on the building. If there’s interest, I’m happy to share more details and keep you updated. @hanghaus2023 has a very nice and inspiring thread on this, which motivated me to finally start posting here.
Next steps: The base of the house still needs to be determined. The challenge is that the modern section will have a wooden cladding with rhombus-shaped boards. One option is to start the cladding at the same height as the regular plaster, i.e., above the base. Another is to start the cladding as low as possible so that the floor-to-ceiling windows are almost entirely covered by the wooden cladding. Deciding on the height of the baseboard and how to install the wooden cladding are the current key issues. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated.
Regards
cryptoki schrieb:
Is there any advantage to multimedia outlets?What exactly do you mean by multimedia outlets? Homeway?I’ll be a bit provocative and ask why even bother with TV sockets anymore? To me, they increasingly seem like a thing of the past.
Personally, I would rely on a well-scaled LAN network and definitely install the cables in conduit so they can be replaced. Unlike electrical wiring, telecommunications technology evolves rapidly, and nothing is more future-proof than a properly sized empty conduit.
Hi.
We have a 200mm (8 inches) conduit installed in the garden, which gives us some flexibility.
But when I think about having to run M20 or rather M25 conduits through the ceiling into the utility room later on to pull cables, it makes me dizzy. All the lighting, blinds, and power circuits—that’s easily 80 to 100 cables coming down from the attic to the utility room. If I use M20 or M25 conduits for that, I would need about a 1 square meter (10.8 square feet) ceiling opening. How often have you had to pull new cables into your house?
We have a 200mm (8 inches) conduit installed in the garden, which gives us some flexibility.
But when I think about having to run M20 or rather M25 conduits through the ceiling into the utility room later on to pull cables, it makes me dizzy. All the lighting, blinds, and power circuits—that’s easily 80 to 100 cables coming down from the attic to the utility room. If I use M20 or M25 conduits for that, I would need about a 1 square meter (10.8 square feet) ceiling opening. How often have you had to pull new cables into your house?
cryptoki schrieb:
Just thinking about the need to run about 80 empty conduits through the ceiling downwards. … makes me initially suspect an inefficient network topology.
cryptoki schrieb:
Unfortunately, no electrical shaft was installed during the casting of the precast concrete ceiling. Where there is no styrofoam block, concrete simply flows in. If you don’t plan ahead, you have to drill later.
cryptoki schrieb:
My idea now is to lay the empty conduits mainly on top of the concrete slab for protection. At most from the core drilling point up to the finished floor level. So more as protection against damage from all the trades still working on the construction site. So basically only as spot edge protection? — I wonder if empty conduits are the best choice for that…
cryptoki schrieb:
I’ve since moved away from that idea towards LAN plus TV outlets. Is there any particular advantage to multimedia outlets? What exactly do you fear cannot be handled by Gigabit Ethernet over 8P8C “Western-style” connectors? Are you still using coaxial copper for anything, or are you rather thinking about fiber optic?
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
KNX system, plenty of light fixtures, LEDs, and each with its own cable for the shutter motors. It adds up quickly. I’m already looking at around 80 cables that need to go to the utility room.
The other trades don’t pay attention to the cables, and the conduit provides protection, so I could access them later with a manageable effort. The cables run down behind the bathroom partition wall into the utility room. I could even go so far as to have that section designed as a pull conduit that can be opened later. That way, on the floor, the conduits offer protection, and in the unlikely event, I could access the cables again. Of course, the bathroom would have to be taken apart, including tiles and such, but it would be possible.
Now, I have already chiseled out separate sockets for LAN and coaxial cable in the attic. You never know. I would lay both cables and then see how it goes.
The other trades don’t pay attention to the cables, and the conduit provides protection, so I could access them later with a manageable effort. The cables run down behind the bathroom partition wall into the utility room. I could even go so far as to have that section designed as a pull conduit that can be opened later. That way, on the floor, the conduits offer protection, and in the unlikely event, I could access the cables again. Of course, the bathroom would have to be taken apart, including tiles and such, but it would be possible.
Now, I have already chiseled out separate sockets for LAN and coaxial cable in the attic. You never know. I would lay both cables and then see how it goes.
In my opinion, a conduit is only as valuable as it is empty, meaning how much reserve capacity it provides – otherwise, it is downgraded to a protective duct. And the ability to pull cables through later never replaces the consideration of network topology, but can always only complement it!
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
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