ᐅ Are perimeter insulation boards in the ground area typically glued or fixed with mechanical fasteners (such as anchors or plugs)?
Created on: 18 Sep 2019 23:59
N
netzplan
We have an extension. The construction company installed long perimeter insulation boards (approximately 2700 by 1000 mm (106 by 39 inches)) vertically on the exterior basement wall below ground level and fastened them with just one anchor at the top. In some places, they foam-sealed the joints.
Is this common practice? The remaining exterior basement walls (existing building) still need insulation. For these, smaller boards with a stepped tongue-and-groove profile would likely be considered. These boards are usually installed horizontally. Should these boards (for example, Perimeter B-3000 EPS 035 PW with dimensions 1250 by 625 mm (49 by 25 inches)) be glued? The wall will receive a new bituminous coating beforehand.
Is this common practice? The remaining exterior basement walls (existing building) still need insulation. For these, smaller boards with a stepped tongue-and-groove profile would likely be considered. These boards are usually installed horizontally. Should these boards (for example, Perimeter B-3000 EPS 035 PW with dimensions 1250 by 625 mm (49 by 25 inches)) be glued? The wall will receive a new bituminous coating beforehand.
Okay, I have decided on 16/22. According to the gravel supplier, this is the most commonly sold size for drainage. However, I have a different issue. Perhaps the opinion of @Bookstar would be interesting here, as he has dealt with this topic extensively.
I picked up one package of perimeter insulation for about 20 sqm (215 sq ft). My builder (who is doing other work on our renovation) said that the format I bought (1250 x 625) is not very suitable. It would have been better to use longer insulation boards, for example 270 cm (106 inches) long. His reasoning:
Therefore, it would be most practical to use long insulation boards and fasten them only once at the base (above ground level). Now I am worried about the bituminous layer that still needs to be applied. What do you think about this?
Would it be a possible solution to glue two perimeter boards measuring 1250 x 625 together the evening before to create 2500 x 625 boards, and then install them vertically the next day (as the builder suggested)? In other words, how would I best glue the boards together (at the stepped joint) to ensure they hold? Also, would it be a problem to install the insulation boards vertically?
Best regards
I picked up one package of perimeter insulation for about 20 sqm (215 sq ft). My builder (who is doing other work on our renovation) said that the format I bought (1250 x 625) is not very suitable. It would have been better to use longer insulation boards, for example 270 cm (106 inches) long. His reasoning:
- Since we will be applying a bituminous coating (WeberSuperflex 10 2k) at the moment, it needs to dry before the insulation boards can be installed.
- After the foundation pit is backfilled, settlement may occur, which can pull the insulation boards down. If the boards are glued, this could also pull the bitumen layer down.
Therefore, it would be most practical to use long insulation boards and fasten them only once at the base (above ground level). Now I am worried about the bituminous layer that still needs to be applied. What do you think about this?
Would it be a possible solution to glue two perimeter boards measuring 1250 x 625 together the evening before to create 2500 x 625 boards, and then install them vertically the next day (as the builder suggested)? In other words, how would I best glue the boards together (at the stepped joint) to ensure they hold? Also, would it be a problem to install the insulation boards vertically?
Best regards
He is not entirely wrong. I would either wait until the thick coating has dried, or additionally secure each board with anchors. That way, it definitely won’t tear away. However, it is questionable why such significant settling would occur and why it would cause the insulation to detach. More information would be needed for that.
Keep in mind, if the insulation will be exposed later and plastered, you should either buy it with a ribbed or honeycomb surface, or manually roughen it by hand afterwards. Otherwise, the plaster will not adhere properly.
Keep in mind, if the insulation will be exposed later and plastered, you should either buy it with a ribbed or honeycomb surface, or manually roughen it by hand afterwards. Otherwise, the plaster will not adhere properly.
Current status: One side of the house is already completed. After researching online, I decided to wait until the first layer of the thick waterproofing coating had dried. Then I applied a second coat to the wall. The insulation boards, in turn, were adhered with the thick waterproofing applied in spots. I also applied the thick waterproofing to the joints between the individual insulation boards. (Hopefully, that was not too bad a decision.)
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