ᐅ Terrace Wall Adjacent to Neighbor – What Should We Consider?

I just thought of something: Is the neighbor on the left also responsible for the boundary fence? He doesn’t live there but owns the property. The empty lot is on the left. So, he should pay at least a certain amount for a basic boundary fence, right? I’m considering asking him, but I’m not sure if that’s the right approach. He’s a very nice man and wouldn’t have any issues with the choice or height, but I don’t know if he would contribute financially.

Also, my garden is higher than the neighbor’s lot, and I want to add some fill along the border. I’d rather ask and take care of it now than risk problems later. Problems like: I add fill, they lower their side, and then I have to support something or deal with other issues. Although, they also have to add fill to bring the houses up to street level.

Bauherrin123 schrieb:

I just thought of something: Is the neighbor on the left also obligated to build a boundary fence? He doesn’t live there but owns the property. The lot on the left is actually empty.

Yes, of course, you are all equally responsible (if someone wants it). It has already been mentioned why you haven’t spoken with everyone yet...

nordanney schrieb:

Of course, you are all equally responsible (if someone requests it). But it has already been mentioned why you haven’t talked to everyone yet...

Because we were busy with house construction and a hundred other things, and the neighbor on the left doesn’t live here, he only owns the land. It is undeveloped. I will contact him.

The mason laid a red mesh on the bricks and then applied the plaster. It is not yet finished with the final white plaster coat. This was around midday on Saturday. It started raining this evening. Is that a big problem? I have covered the wall with a sheet of plastic; it protects only from above, not so much on the sides.

So he wanted to plaster tomorrow, but according to the internet, the layer— I think it's mortar—needs to dry for 10 days first.

nordanney schrieb:

Yes, but it grows too slowly.

You can buy different tree sizes for that.

Thoughts on hedge plants:
You can prioritize hedge plants according to different criteria: privacy screening, appearance, benefits for the microclimate (it is noticeably more comfortable near hedges during hot summers), support for wildlife (protection for butterflies, bees, etc.), yield (fruits, edibles), required width, maintenance effort, drought resistance...

The species I mention can all be kept fairly narrow. The European beech looks best but requires 1–1.2 meters (3.3–3.9 feet) width, which is about twice the space of the narrowest pruning varieties.

Evergreen hedge plants that grow well here offer little to no value for nature. Cherry laurel is considered equivalent to a desert from the perspective of native species. Glossy abelia is only slightly better. The yew performs best among these, offering low pollen and almost no food value but provides shelter for nesting and overwintering. Many avoid yew because its parts (except the red fleshy berry covering) are toxic, and parents worry their children might ingest them. Yew can be pruned to stay narrow. Privet is also an option but is not very competitive against other species and requires somewhat more care, especially in the early stages. However, privet can be combined nicely with hedge-suitable ornamental plants that flower in color, such as weigela, forsythia, or butterfly bush.

Besides the European beech (my favorite), the field maple is a perfect choice for those looking for privacy with a nice appearance and a contribution to nature conservation and microclimate protection. I would not prune it narrower than 80 cm (31 inches). The only drawback is that if it is not pruned regularly, it becomes tree-like. Hornbeam is also a good option, can be pruned narrower than the European beech, but does not have as impressive a color display.

If complete privacy is not the main goal, but some seclusion, appearance, and usability are important, the combination of espaliered apple trees with currants makes a wonderful pairing, often seen in gardens in our Benelux neighbors.

Additional note: Cherry laurel technically has the best qualities—it grows fast, stays dense, and is drought resistant—but is so useless for nature that it is classified as an invasive species. Switzerland banned planting cherry laurel in 2024, and its use is increasingly prohibited in municipal regulations. I advise against it.

@wiltshire
I agree with you on everything (I myself planted 40m (130 feet) of European beech two years ago). BUT: you have been following the thread, and it’s about privacy screening and blocking off towards Müller. Ideally immediately and permanently. As sad as it is, in my opinion, only the cherry laurel remains, as it best meets all the requirements – and unfortunately is also the worst choice.