ᐅ Location of a city villa or detached single-family house on a 500 m² rectangular plot
Created on: 17 Jan 2020 18:03
T
Tolentino
Dear all,
after sharing the floor plans of my possible hamster cage with you in the other thread , here comes the next thread (thanks again for all the constructive suggestions there).
Just so you know, the semi-detached house is not off the table yet, as this plot of land is highly sought after and it’s not clear whether it will work out. But this one would be my favorite.
Now to this plot. For now, I’m mainly concerned with where and roughly how the house should be positioned on this plot.
Development plan / restrictions
Plot size: 500 m² (5400 sq ft)
Slope: none
Site coverage ratio: 0.2
Floor area ratio: 0.4
Building envelope, building line and boundary: 5 m (16 ft) from the street, 3 m (10 ft) from neighbors
Edge development: allowed for garages and sheds, none existing on the plot
Number of parking spaces: 1-2
Number of floors: 1.5–2.5
Roof shape: no preference
Architectural style: no preference
Orientation: aligned parallel to the street
Maximum heights / limits: ridge height max. 9 m (30 ft)
Below are the site plans I created myself based on the details from the listing.
This is a rough overview of the plot with building boundaries and dimensions.
My question is: where to put the house?
The broker suggests placing it towards the back, since you already have the 5 m (16 ft) setback at the front and would “gain” about 3 m (10 ft) of garden. My partner doesn’t like this because of the visibility from the street. I say: privacy screen! But I also think, a fence too high might create a prison-yard feel.
But even if you follow this suggestion, I wonder if a more square floor plan (-> town villa style) would be better?
Like this, for example:
Then parking space might be tricky, right?
Or upright like this?
I really want as much of a west-facing view and garden as possible. I tend to be an evening person and that side is less built up, due to the road. So I think more light comes through.
But the narrow floor plan caused lots of problems with the semi-detached house already. Well, here you could build longer instead.
What do you think?
Best regards
Tolentino
after sharing the floor plans of my possible hamster cage with you in the other thread , here comes the next thread (thanks again for all the constructive suggestions there).
Just so you know, the semi-detached house is not off the table yet, as this plot of land is highly sought after and it’s not clear whether it will work out. But this one would be my favorite.
Now to this plot. For now, I’m mainly concerned with where and roughly how the house should be positioned on this plot.
Development plan / restrictions
Plot size: 500 m² (5400 sq ft)
Slope: none
Site coverage ratio: 0.2
Floor area ratio: 0.4
Building envelope, building line and boundary: 5 m (16 ft) from the street, 3 m (10 ft) from neighbors
Edge development: allowed for garages and sheds, none existing on the plot
Number of parking spaces: 1-2
Number of floors: 1.5–2.5
Roof shape: no preference
Architectural style: no preference
Orientation: aligned parallel to the street
Maximum heights / limits: ridge height max. 9 m (30 ft)
Below are the site plans I created myself based on the details from the listing.
This is a rough overview of the plot with building boundaries and dimensions.
My question is: where to put the house?
The broker suggests placing it towards the back, since you already have the 5 m (16 ft) setback at the front and would “gain” about 3 m (10 ft) of garden. My partner doesn’t like this because of the visibility from the street. I say: privacy screen! But I also think, a fence too high might create a prison-yard feel.
But even if you follow this suggestion, I wonder if a more square floor plan (-> town villa style) would be better?
Like this, for example:
Then parking space might be tricky, right?
Or upright like this?
I really want as much of a west-facing view and garden as possible. I tend to be an evening person and that side is less built up, due to the road. So I think more light comes through.
But the narrow floor plan caused lots of problems with the semi-detached house already. Well, here you could build longer instead.
What do you think?
Best regards
Tolentino
@OWLer But did he then use a separate tankless water heater or the heating element of the heat pump?
My HVAC technician mentioned something about a heating element. However, I will discuss it with him again. Because I really don't want to face exorbitant electricity costs.
My HVAC technician mentioned something about a heating element. However, I will discuss it with him again. Because I really don't want to face exorbitant electricity costs.
KingJulien8 Oct 2021 16:24I’m familiar with this discussion. Stiebel Eltron’s manual explicitly states that the screed program runs via a compressor.
Unfortunately, my general contractor didn’t care and everything was happily done using the heating element.
Always in the name of absolute safety; after all, the homeowner pays for the electricity.
Unfortunately, my general contractor didn’t care and everything was happily done using the heating element.
Always in the name of absolute safety; after all, the homeowner pays for the electricity.
Tolentino schrieb:
@OWLer But did he then use a separate instantaneous water heater or the heating element of the heat pump?A completely separate device. Probably also for protecting the building components, as none of the permanent equipment was in place during the drying phase. I have the impression that our anhydrite screed released significantly more moisture than the cement screed used by our neighbors.
Well, now the parts supply crisis has caught up with me. The heat pump is impossible to get. Although I had pointed this out early and was firmly promised on-time delivery, there was initially a two-week delay and now the dealers have completely withdrawn any delivery date commitments.
The tower is already here, and since the auxiliary heater is built into it, there is still hope that it can be used for functional heating. The heating engineer still wants to check this with Vaillant. That would mean trading a high electricity bill for further construction delays (which will also cost me quite a bit).
In the meantime, the water connection is being completed, a water softening system is being installed, and everything is prepared so that the heat pump only needs to be installed, connected, and switched on.
Meanwhile, I’m biting my nails.
The tower is already here, and since the auxiliary heater is built into it, there is still hope that it can be used for functional heating. The heating engineer still wants to check this with Vaillant. That would mean trading a high electricity bill for further construction delays (which will also cost me quite a bit).
In the meantime, the water connection is being completed, a water softening system is being installed, and everything is prepared so that the heat pump only needs to be installed, connected, and switched on.
Meanwhile, I’m biting my nails.
So, here’s an update: The heating technician installed an electric heater for me. So far, the heating schedule (which runs until Monday) has cost me 2000 kWh. According to inexpensive hygrometers, the indoor humidity is only between 30-50% at about 20°C (68°F) room temperature.
I’m starting to suspect that the screed might have surface efflorescence because I never had any condensation on the interior windows, let alone dripping water, which others often report here.
On the other hand, I had a three-week break without heating, so maybe the screed had plenty of time to dry properly?
I’m looking forward to the first CM (calcium carbide) measurement. At the moment, I just can’t get a tile installer. My neighbor’s tiler has, after some consideration, agreed to work on the guest bathroom at least. Maybe he will also take CM measurements at the other test points for me.
I’m going to try some hardware stores with contractor services again.
The drywall workers have been working since last week, and it’s looking pretty good.
The blower door test barely passed on Wednesday with a result of 1.5. However, the interior window sills and the ventilation ducts for the controlled mechanical ventilation to the outside are not finished yet. So, if it already passed with that, I’m hopeful that the airtightness is quite good.
It’s a pity that I won’t know the final airtightness value now.
Does anyone know how much a blower door test usually costs? Maybe I’ll just have another one done.
I’m starting to suspect that the screed might have surface efflorescence because I never had any condensation on the interior windows, let alone dripping water, which others often report here.
On the other hand, I had a three-week break without heating, so maybe the screed had plenty of time to dry properly?
I’m looking forward to the first CM (calcium carbide) measurement. At the moment, I just can’t get a tile installer. My neighbor’s tiler has, after some consideration, agreed to work on the guest bathroom at least. Maybe he will also take CM measurements at the other test points for me.
I’m going to try some hardware stores with contractor services again.
The drywall workers have been working since last week, and it’s looking pretty good.
The blower door test barely passed on Wednesday with a result of 1.5. However, the interior window sills and the ventilation ducts for the controlled mechanical ventilation to the outside are not finished yet. So, if it already passed with that, I’m hopeful that the airtightness is quite good.
It’s a pity that I won’t know the final airtightness value now.
Does anyone know how much a blower door test usually costs? Maybe I’ll just have another one done.
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