ᐅ Location of a city villa or detached single-family house on a 500 m² rectangular plot
Created on: 17 Jan 2020 18:03
T
Tolentino
Dear all,
after sharing the floor plans of my possible hamster cage with you in the other thread , here comes the next thread (thanks again for all the constructive suggestions there).
Just so you know, the semi-detached house is not off the table yet, as this plot of land is highly sought after and it’s not clear whether it will work out. But this one would be my favorite.
Now to this plot. For now, I’m mainly concerned with where and roughly how the house should be positioned on this plot.
Development plan / restrictions
Plot size: 500 m² (5400 sq ft)
Slope: none
Site coverage ratio: 0.2
Floor area ratio: 0.4
Building envelope, building line and boundary: 5 m (16 ft) from the street, 3 m (10 ft) from neighbors
Edge development: allowed for garages and sheds, none existing on the plot
Number of parking spaces: 1-2
Number of floors: 1.5–2.5
Roof shape: no preference
Architectural style: no preference
Orientation: aligned parallel to the street
Maximum heights / limits: ridge height max. 9 m (30 ft)
Below are the site plans I created myself based on the details from the listing.
This is a rough overview of the plot with building boundaries and dimensions.
My question is: where to put the house?
The broker suggests placing it towards the back, since you already have the 5 m (16 ft) setback at the front and would “gain” about 3 m (10 ft) of garden. My partner doesn’t like this because of the visibility from the street. I say: privacy screen! But I also think, a fence too high might create a prison-yard feel.
But even if you follow this suggestion, I wonder if a more square floor plan (-> town villa style) would be better?
Like this, for example:
Then parking space might be tricky, right?
Or upright like this?
I really want as much of a west-facing view and garden as possible. I tend to be an evening person and that side is less built up, due to the road. So I think more light comes through.
But the narrow floor plan caused lots of problems with the semi-detached house already. Well, here you could build longer instead.
What do you think?
Best regards
Tolentino
after sharing the floor plans of my possible hamster cage with you in the other thread , here comes the next thread (thanks again for all the constructive suggestions there).
Just so you know, the semi-detached house is not off the table yet, as this plot of land is highly sought after and it’s not clear whether it will work out. But this one would be my favorite.
Now to this plot. For now, I’m mainly concerned with where and roughly how the house should be positioned on this plot.
Development plan / restrictions
Plot size: 500 m² (5400 sq ft)
Slope: none
Site coverage ratio: 0.2
Floor area ratio: 0.4
Building envelope, building line and boundary: 5 m (16 ft) from the street, 3 m (10 ft) from neighbors
Edge development: allowed for garages and sheds, none existing on the plot
Number of parking spaces: 1-2
Number of floors: 1.5–2.5
Roof shape: no preference
Architectural style: no preference
Orientation: aligned parallel to the street
Maximum heights / limits: ridge height max. 9 m (30 ft)
Below are the site plans I created myself based on the details from the listing.
This is a rough overview of the plot with building boundaries and dimensions.
My question is: where to put the house?
The broker suggests placing it towards the back, since you already have the 5 m (16 ft) setback at the front and would “gain” about 3 m (10 ft) of garden. My partner doesn’t like this because of the visibility from the street. I say: privacy screen! But I also think, a fence too high might create a prison-yard feel.
But even if you follow this suggestion, I wonder if a more square floor plan (-> town villa style) would be better?
Like this, for example:
Then parking space might be tricky, right?
Or upright like this?
I really want as much of a west-facing view and garden as possible. I tend to be an evening person and that side is less built up, due to the road. So I think more light comes through.
But the narrow floor plan caused lots of problems with the semi-detached house already. Well, here you could build longer instead.
What do you think?
Best regards
Tolentino
That should work—though only for the workers, not for the materials. Will the materials be lifted up through a window using an inclined hoist?
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
Let's see.
The heating/plumbing contractor said they would only get bathtubs up with a ladder – no idea how. Maybe with a winch through the stairwell opening.
A construction hoist through the window would also work, of course. I have a large double casement window with a low sill in one of the rooms.
You’d probably need two people to carry laminate flooring up there; if there’s someone downstairs handing it up, it’s even faster.
For tiles, we’ll have to see...
The heating/plumbing contractor said they would only get bathtubs up with a ladder – no idea how. Maybe with a winch through the stairwell opening.
A construction hoist through the window would also work, of course. I have a large double casement window with a low sill in one of the rooms.
You’d probably need two people to carry laminate flooring up there; if there’s someone downstairs handing it up, it’s even faster.
For tiles, we’ll have to see...
R
RotorMotor8 Oct 2021 08:54Tolentino schrieb:
Unfortunately, we have to wait now because nothing else can be done before the functional heating.Well, it can vary a lot. My heating engineer strictly refuses to do the functional heating with Vaillant. He says it would put too much strain on it, and so on. I have now contacted the manufacturer to confirm that this is not a problem. So far, no response...
Really? Why is that? According to the protocol, the supply temperature at my place must not exceed 45°C (113°F) for 6 days and otherwise stay between 25-35°C (77-95°F) for a total of three weeks. So except for the 45°C (113°F), this is actually something it should be able to handle during normal operation even at maximum outdoor temperature. Maybe he still has an old protocol in mind where it needs to be set to 60°C (140°F)?
And how does he intend to do the functional heating then? With an instantaneous water heater? Is he going to pay for your electricity?
Yes, let me know when Vaillant replies, I’d be interested to hear that too...
And how does he intend to do the functional heating then? With an instantaneous water heater? Is he going to pay for your electricity?
Yes, let me know when Vaillant replies, I’d be interested to hear that too...
For us, this meant heating the screed to dry it out.
The commissioning was carried out by a Viessmann service technician. One hour with tools and four hours on the laptop.
The heating engineer had installed and prepared everything.
Everything goes up via the ladder,
2x1m (3.3x3.3 ft) tiles, of course, laid individually.
The commissioning was carried out by a Viessmann service technician. One hour with tools and four hours on the laptop.
The heating engineer had installed and prepared everything.
Everything goes up via the ladder,
2x1m (3.3x3.3 ft) tiles, of course, laid individually.
R
RotorMotor8 Oct 2021 09:53Tolentino schrieb:
Oh really? Why is that? According to the protocol, the maximum supply temperature is 45°C (113°F) for 6 days, and otherwise 25-35°C (77-95°F) for a total of three weeks. So except for the 45°C, that should basically be achievable under normal operation even at maximum outside temperatures. Maybe he’s still thinking of an old protocol requiring 60°C (140°F)?
And how does he plan to do the functional heating then? With an electric instantaneous water heater? Is he going to pay your electricity costs?
Yeah, let me know if Vaillant responds, I’d be interested too... He even considers 45°C (113°F) a problem.
Because the screed is still damp, a lot of energy is drawn off.
Also, the hydraulic station, controls, etc. are obviously inside and exposed to extreme humidity.
I personally don’t see this as an issue and suspect he’s just not motivated and wants to do it the usual way, which means using an electric instantaneous water heater. Naturally, I cover the electricity costs. ;-)
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