ᐅ Building a garden shed yourself (frame dimensions) – Is 8x8 timber beam a good choice?
Created on: 2 Oct 2018 11:32
M
mysterox
Hello everyone,
We would like to build a garden shed.
It should be used both by our son for playing and by my wife as a sewing room.
I planned to construct it as a timber frame.
The exterior cladding would be done with tongue and groove profile boards.
Inside, I would like to cover the walls with OSB panels.
The space between the profile boards and OSB would then be insulated with suitable material.
This way, it would be comfortable to use even at somewhat cooler temperatures.
A friend has offered us squared timber measuring 8 x 10cm (3 x 4 inches).
Now I wanted to ask if you think 8 x 10cm (3 x 4 inches) beams would be sufficient for the frame.
I would place the studs at a distance of 60cm (24 inches) apart.
Thanks and regards
Thomas
We would like to build a garden shed.
It should be used both by our son for playing and by my wife as a sewing room.
I planned to construct it as a timber frame.
The exterior cladding would be done with tongue and groove profile boards.
Inside, I would like to cover the walls with OSB panels.
The space between the profile boards and OSB would then be insulated with suitable material.
This way, it would be comfortable to use even at somewhat cooler temperatures.
A friend has offered us squared timber measuring 8 x 10cm (3 x 4 inches).
Now I wanted to ask if you think 8 x 10cm (3 x 4 inches) beams would be sufficient for the frame.
I would place the studs at a distance of 60cm (24 inches) apart.
Thanks and regards
Thomas
O
Obstlerbaum2 Oct 2018 22:40Which roof terrace? From the description, I understand it to be a garden shed with a pitched roof. Where I agree: If four people are supposed to go up there to install a photovoltaic system, it would need to be dimensioned differently.
Roof terrace was just a way to illustrate that with too many people on the roof, the stability can no longer be guaranteed. However, I have not seen a gable roof mentioned anywhere. In that case, the construction of the roof frame would also be a determining factor, and for the ridge beam, I would definitely go for something thicker.
M
Mottenhausen2 Oct 2018 22:54Where is the construction planned? Wet snow can be really severe. It doesn't take a record-breaking winter for warehouses, or worse, gymnasiums, to collapse.
Since the wall is going to be insulated, I would separate the cladding (profiled wood) and insulation and provide ventilation behind it. For example, from inside to outside: OSB board, stud frame/insulation, water-resistive barrier (WRB), counter battens/air gap, cladding/weather protection.
The stud frame with dimensions of 80 x 100 mm (3 x 4 inches) should be sufficient. For the roof, I would also use 60 x 160 mm (2.5 x 6.5 inches) lumber and possibly provide ventilation behind it like the wall.
Olli
The stud frame with dimensions of 80 x 100 mm (3 x 4 inches) should be sufficient. For the roof, I would also use 60 x 160 mm (2.5 x 6.5 inches) lumber and possibly provide ventilation behind it like the wall.
Olli
Hello everyone,
thank you very much for all the replies.
The 80 x 100 referred only to the framing studs. For the roof rafters, I wanted to use 80 x 160.
It will be a simple flat roof with about an 8° pitch.
We live in snow load zone 1. Based on Mottenhausen’s suggestion, I did a rough calculation.
Now I know that I can use the 80 x 100 beams and work with them.
Can I build it slowly, gradually as I have time?
My main concern is what I need to do so that parts can withstand rain exposure for some time if necessary.
Or should I definitely try to finish the framing and roof in one weekend?
@wrobel: What exactly do you mean by DWD? Do I need to consider anything special for the counter battens? Or can I simply use standard impregnated battens 24 x 48 from the hardware store and be done?
thank you very much for all the replies.
The 80 x 100 referred only to the framing studs. For the roof rafters, I wanted to use 80 x 160.
It will be a simple flat roof with about an 8° pitch.
We live in snow load zone 1. Based on Mottenhausen’s suggestion, I did a rough calculation.
Now I know that I can use the 80 x 100 beams and work with them.
Can I build it slowly, gradually as I have time?
My main concern is what I need to do so that parts can withstand rain exposure for some time if necessary.
Or should I definitely try to finish the framing and roof in one weekend?
@wrobel: What exactly do you mean by DWD? Do I need to consider anything special for the counter battens? Or can I simply use standard impregnated battens 24 x 48 from the hardware store and be done?
mysterox schrieb:
DWD?A vapor-permeable wind barrier? Or something like that? – Technically, definitely something like that. So a breathable underlay / wind barrier membrane—vapor-permeable (not a vapor retarder)—installed on the outside of the insulation, meaning attached from the outside to the timber frame.
For the battens, impregnated pine should be sufficient. If you plan to use a rhomboid cladding or other non-continuous claddings, you should use a black membrane and battens painted black (these are also available pre-painted). This is purely for aesthetic reasons.
The construction sounds reasonable. Don’t forget bracing, and ideally include a layer of bitumen felt between the foundation and the wood.
For longer construction periods, I would cover it with a PE sheet. It’s very inexpensive and makes the work easier.
Similar topics