ᐅ Timber-frame house with natural swimming pond and garden sauna
Created on: 29 Jan 2017 16:46
M
MundS
Hello Forum,
Greetings to everyone; as a previously silent reader, I admire the expertise and the open, straightforward manner of those offering help.
We are Steffi, 36, Lisa, almost 11, and I (Matthias), 46, currently planning the project of a lifetime.
About the project:
We want to build a passive wooden house with roughly 120-130m² (1,290-1,400 sq ft) of living space in a bungalow style with a gable roof (shoebox shape with approximately 3m (10 ft) ceiling height).
The house will have narrow strip windows on two sides (street side/north side), while the south and east sides will be opened up with large window installations.
In the garden, we plan to build a carport/garage and a natural swimming pond with an outdoor sauna.
The facade will be wooden (likely thermo-spruce) with aluminum windows featuring a Uw value under 0.8 W/m²K.
The facade and windows will come from my employer (a large company specializing in timber construction); the planner and architect authorized to submit plans is in-house.
I am personally responsible for the windows.
All other trades will be contracted based on my employer’s recommendations (foundation slab/floors/ventilation system) and commissioned independently.
The floor plan is currently being developed and the plot is being purchased (19 x 39m (62 x 128 ft)).
My question, and here I hope for your support: what type of hot water preparation/ventilation is really sensible?
I have read about concrete core activation, air-to-air heat pumps, air-to-water heat pumps, heating coils, and heat pumps in general. Who has a passive house or experience in this field and can enlighten us before the heating or ventilation installer guides us in the “wrong” direction?
We would rather not use solar panels; I’m considering a wind turbine (the location allows for it) and sufficient clearance distances are well observed. The rotor should not be the classic 3-blade type but more like a Darrieus rotor with about 1 kW output for self-consumption.
The reason is neighborhood-friendly operation: no flickering shadows and quieter running noise.
Those are the key facts—thank you and best regards, Steffi and Matthias
Greetings to everyone; as a previously silent reader, I admire the expertise and the open, straightforward manner of those offering help.
We are Steffi, 36, Lisa, almost 11, and I (Matthias), 46, currently planning the project of a lifetime.
About the project:
We want to build a passive wooden house with roughly 120-130m² (1,290-1,400 sq ft) of living space in a bungalow style with a gable roof (shoebox shape with approximately 3m (10 ft) ceiling height).
The house will have narrow strip windows on two sides (street side/north side), while the south and east sides will be opened up with large window installations.
In the garden, we plan to build a carport/garage and a natural swimming pond with an outdoor sauna.
The facade will be wooden (likely thermo-spruce) with aluminum windows featuring a Uw value under 0.8 W/m²K.
The facade and windows will come from my employer (a large company specializing in timber construction); the planner and architect authorized to submit plans is in-house.
I am personally responsible for the windows.
All other trades will be contracted based on my employer’s recommendations (foundation slab/floors/ventilation system) and commissioned independently.
The floor plan is currently being developed and the plot is being purchased (19 x 39m (62 x 128 ft)).
My question, and here I hope for your support: what type of hot water preparation/ventilation is really sensible?
I have read about concrete core activation, air-to-air heat pumps, air-to-water heat pumps, heating coils, and heat pumps in general. Who has a passive house or experience in this field and can enlighten us before the heating or ventilation installer guides us in the “wrong” direction?
We would rather not use solar panels; I’m considering a wind turbine (the location allows for it) and sufficient clearance distances are well observed. The rotor should not be the classic 3-blade type but more like a Darrieus rotor with about 1 kW output for self-consumption.
The reason is neighborhood-friendly operation: no flickering shadows and quieter running noise.
Those are the key facts—thank you and best regards, Steffi and Matthias
...about the wind turbine:
None of the contacted suppliers were able to provide concrete figures on the electricity output of their wind turbines.
We have decided to hold off for now and are getting a 10kW photovoltaic system with a battery storage.
However, the wind turbine is not off the table yet...
Today we submitted the building permit / planning permission application to the city, but had to take it back immediately because the carport falls within the building line and we need to apply for an exemption.
None of the contacted suppliers were able to provide concrete figures on the electricity output of their wind turbines.
We have decided to hold off for now and are getting a 10kW photovoltaic system with a battery storage.
However, the wind turbine is not off the table yet...
Today we submitted the building permit / planning permission application to the city, but had to take it back immediately because the carport falls within the building line and we need to apply for an exemption.
B
Bieber081527 Sep 2017 21:48Too bad... Maybe in another thread?
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