ᐅ Ytong extension on a brick-faced house built in 1971

Hello,

we are currently planning a kitchen extension.
Our house was built in 1971 – wall construction: lime-sand – Hyperlite – brick veneer.
Completely renovated in 2003. Energy consumption is 86.8 kWh according to the energy certificate.

We want to remove a window element (2 m (6.6 ft)) and create a breakthrough leading into the new room.

Since parts of the existing brick exterior wall will become interior walls after the extension, I don’t want to simply place the new walls made of Ytong blocks in front of the brick wall. Instead, I plan to cut grooves into the existing brickwork about as deep as the thickness of the Ytong blocks and then bond the new Ytong blocks “into” the brick wall.

This way, a thermal separation of the brick wall will be created.

See – Room 2

Good idea?? Or not clear?? Or maybe other suggestions?

Thank you

Hello

I built something similar with a stairwell: in front of the open stairs that ran along the outside, I constructed an enclosed vestibule with two doors, roughly the height of the house. There is a round window at the top inside. This way, you can now go up the stairs from inside.

At the connections to the old walls, I created so-called sliding joints by simply placing a vertical layer of roofing felt between the new and old walls. The issue with extensions, in my opinion, is the completely different settlement behavior. Although I founded the new walls frost-free on strip foundations and poured a concrete slab on a vibrated sub-base, the entire extension settled about 3 mm (0.1 inches) over the next three years. The old house had already finished its "settlement phase" long ago, but a new building apparently completes its final settlement within the first one to three years. Thanks to the sliding joints, there were no problems, but if you interlock the old and new masonry, I believe even 3 mm (0.1 inches) could cause the masonry bond to break. For that reason, I personally advise against structural interlocking!

To achieve visual harmony with the house, you could, in my opinion, reclad the extension with flush mortar joints after settlement is complete. Here too, I would avoid embedding mortar in the joints against the house wall and instead consistently maintain the sliding joint (leave roofing felt protruding between the new aerated concrete blocks and the old wall at least the width of the facing bricks, extending sideways).

What does the building authority say about this? It is considered a new living space, which in many regions would not be exempt from building permits / planning permission ... The authority can also provide information about structural requirements for such projects.

Best regards

Hello, the building authority told me to submit a building notification, which I am currently preparing. Drawings are also in progress.

I just wanted to hear other opinions and suggestions, so that's why I'm asking here.

Is it possible to reduce the settling of an extension by using more concrete or a deeper foundation???

Ah, sounds like a "shortened" or "simplified" application process,

so there probably weren’t any requirements until now?

As far as I know, settlement is a completely normal process; you just have to take it into account when extending a building. Foundations should be properly sized and frost-protected, which I believe should be obvious. As far as I know, settlement cannot be completely avoided. I had also compacted the soil, so it was only about 3mm (0.1 inches). If I had been careless, it might have been worse.

What exactly bothers you about the settlement?

Regards

Whereas the procedure described in the project documentation would inevitably lead to structural damage,...

Best regards

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