ᐅ Why is shading especially important in newly constructed houses?
Created on: 29 Aug 2016 13:33
G
Grym
It is often argued that shading is especially important in new builds to prevent overheating in summer. But why is that exactly?
The insulation in a new building works both ways. Whether it’s cold or heat, the house takes much longer to adopt the outside temperature compared to an older house with poorer insulation.
Now, regarding the windows themselves. Shouldn’t solar energy pass through a less effective double-glazed window faster than through a modern triple-glazed window?
Why do many say that shading is PARTICULARLY important in new builds during summer? I would rather think the opposite: a new build is better insulated against heat from outside. Triple-glazed windows with a low U-value keep heat out better than old double-glazed windows.
The insulation in a new building works both ways. Whether it’s cold or heat, the house takes much longer to adopt the outside temperature compared to an older house with poorer insulation.
Now, regarding the windows themselves. Shouldn’t solar energy pass through a less effective double-glazed window faster than through a modern triple-glazed window?
Why do many say that shading is PARTICULARLY important in new builds during summer? I would rather think the opposite: a new build is better insulated against heat from outside. Triple-glazed windows with a low U-value keep heat out better than old double-glazed windows.
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Peanuts7430 Aug 2016 08:20Sebastian79 schrieb:
No, it’s warm there for us as well...Really? For us, it’s only about 1-2 degrees Celsius (2-4 degrees Fahrenheit) warmer there than on the ground floor...
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Sebastian7930 Aug 2016 08:25Yes, it’s warm... on the ground floor we have 22-24 degrees Celsius (72-75°F), so around 23-26 degrees Celsius (73-79°F) on the upper floor. On average, with full shading, we had about 24.5-25.5 degrees Celsius (76-78°F).
It was okay, but honestly, I expected more from the chosen materials. However (as I already mentioned), the neighbor had 27-28 degrees Celsius (81-82°F).
Another (minor) disadvantage in our small master bedroom (10 m² (108 sq ft)): our son now comes to us early at night, so there are three people sleeping in the room – and when the 50-inch plasma (= heater) was on before, it can get a bit warmer in there at times. You really notice the TV – well, winter is coming soon.
It was okay, but honestly, I expected more from the chosen materials. However (as I already mentioned), the neighbor had 27-28 degrees Celsius (81-82°F).
Another (minor) disadvantage in our small master bedroom (10 m² (108 sq ft)): our son now comes to us early at night, so there are three people sleeping in the room – and when the 50-inch plasma (= heater) was on before, it can get a bit warmer in there at times. You really notice the TV – well, winter is coming soon.
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Peanuts7430 Aug 2016 08:27Well, if it’s an old 500-watt heater... In my older building, I used to often have temperatures over 30°C (86°F) in the attic, but compared to that, it feels quite comfortably cool now...
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Sebastian7930 Aug 2016 08:31Peanuts74 schrieb:
Well, if it’s such an old 500-watt heater…No, it’s only just under 400 watts maximum, but that’s typical for plasmas—there’s no real old/new difference there…
Peanuts74 schrieb:
In older buildings, I used to have temperatures over 30°C (86°F) under the roof, but compared to that, it’s now quite comfortably cool…Same here, but like many others, I just expected a bit more. At least upstairs I’m very happy we installed a central switch for the blinds.
Very interesting topic!
I currently live in an apartment on the top floor (with a flat roof) and windows without shutters. I only have interior blinds, which hardly help at all. It gets uncomfortably hot, even though all the windows face roughly east.
Over the weekend, I laid the floorboards in the attic and worked on the opening for the pull-down ladder. Until then, the roof only had a membrane on it. Around 1 p.m., it became quite uncomfortable, and eventually it affected my circulation, even though I had drunk a lot of water. I don’t want to imagine how hot it was under the membrane. I have never sweated like that in my life.
The house has a lot of window area on the south side, as well as a large window on the east side in the living area, but none on the west. The gable roof has substantial overhangs on the north and south sides (on the northern gable, we are currently planning the intake for fresh air for the mechanical ventilation system). We are getting really "thick" glazing, a total thickness of 24 mm (about 1 inch) spread across 3 panes. It will also have insulated aluminum shutters—whatever "insulated" means or provides here. I’m curious to see if we can maintain a comfortable temperature on the ground floor during summer, especially combined with the operation of the mechanical ventilation system.
The ceiling between the upper floor and the attic will be insulated, but the entire attic itself will also be insulated since the heating system will be installed there. I’m also interested in seeing how effective this will be. For the attic, we are planning two windows controllable from the upper floor, which can be programmed to vent out the heat at night by creating airflow through the attic.
I currently live in an apartment on the top floor (with a flat roof) and windows without shutters. I only have interior blinds, which hardly help at all. It gets uncomfortably hot, even though all the windows face roughly east.
Over the weekend, I laid the floorboards in the attic and worked on the opening for the pull-down ladder. Until then, the roof only had a membrane on it. Around 1 p.m., it became quite uncomfortable, and eventually it affected my circulation, even though I had drunk a lot of water. I don’t want to imagine how hot it was under the membrane. I have never sweated like that in my life.
The house has a lot of window area on the south side, as well as a large window on the east side in the living area, but none on the west. The gable roof has substantial overhangs on the north and south sides (on the northern gable, we are currently planning the intake for fresh air for the mechanical ventilation system). We are getting really "thick" glazing, a total thickness of 24 mm (about 1 inch) spread across 3 panes. It will also have insulated aluminum shutters—whatever "insulated" means or provides here. I’m curious to see if we can maintain a comfortable temperature on the ground floor during summer, especially combined with the operation of the mechanical ventilation system.
The ceiling between the upper floor and the attic will be insulated, but the entire attic itself will also be insulated since the heating system will be installed there. I’m also interested in seeing how effective this will be. For the attic, we are planning two windows controllable from the upper floor, which can be programmed to vent out the heat at night by creating airflow through the attic.
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