Hello,
I have no knowledge about bricks and don’t know which are the best. You can find a lot of information on the internet, but in my opinion, all bricks look quite similar. Which bricks are actually the best for thermal insulation and soundproofing? What thickness should be used? Many also use thinner bricks and then add 5cm (2 inches) of polystyrene or something similar. What experiences have you had?
I have no knowledge about bricks and don’t know which are the best. You can find a lot of information on the internet, but in my opinion, all bricks look quite similar. Which bricks are actually the best for thermal insulation and soundproofing? What thickness should be used? Many also use thinner bricks and then add 5cm (2 inches) of polystyrene or something similar. What experiences have you had?
F
falah196928 Nov 2010 08:29Hello, I feel the same way. There is a lot of information online about bricks and aerated concrete, and I also find it difficult to decide which type of block to build with. In Franconia, Bavaria, 90% of buildings are constructed with bricks, although bricks are more expensive than aerated concrete. Depending on the budget, has anyone gained experience with this?
Hello to both of you,
First of all, you should understand the specific energy performance requirements for the walls, which depend on the house type, location, or the homeowner’s preferences. After that, it is easy to determine which wall thickness and material would generally meet these standards.
You can also check locally, as not all bricks or blocks can be delivered to every part of the country at the same cost.
As a general rule, the heavier the masonry material, the better the sound insulation it provides (although it is worth asking how much sound insulation is actually necessary and why). However, heavier materials tend to perform worse when it comes to thermal insulation.
For load-bearing masonry, a 5cm (2 inches) external insulation layer is no longer sufficient today. You should plan for around 16-18 cm (6-7 inches).
Most suppliers offer suitable masonry units that meet current thermal insulation requirements. Some differ in the variety of products, shapes, and supplementary units available. As long as the mason has a good stone saw on site, this last aspect is less critical.
There are not that many main material products available, but there are more suppliers and brand names. Common masonry materials include aerated clay bricks (e.g., Poroton/Unipor...), aerated concrete (e.g., Ytong, Hebel...), pumice-based blocks (e.g., Klimaleichtblock>KLB<, Iso-Bims, Pumix...), or Liapor products, which are made from expanded clay pellets.
Ultimately, it also depends on what local builders prefer to work with—what they know and therefore recommend. Usually, it makes little sense to convince a chosen contractor to work with a product they are unfamiliar with.
My tip: Focus on the planning phase first. Everything else (including the budget) usually falls into place after that.
First of all, you should understand the specific energy performance requirements for the walls, which depend on the house type, location, or the homeowner’s preferences. After that, it is easy to determine which wall thickness and material would generally meet these standards.
You can also check locally, as not all bricks or blocks can be delivered to every part of the country at the same cost.
As a general rule, the heavier the masonry material, the better the sound insulation it provides (although it is worth asking how much sound insulation is actually necessary and why). However, heavier materials tend to perform worse when it comes to thermal insulation.
For load-bearing masonry, a 5cm (2 inches) external insulation layer is no longer sufficient today. You should plan for around 16-18 cm (6-7 inches).
Most suppliers offer suitable masonry units that meet current thermal insulation requirements. Some differ in the variety of products, shapes, and supplementary units available. As long as the mason has a good stone saw on site, this last aspect is less critical.
There are not that many main material products available, but there are more suppliers and brand names. Common masonry materials include aerated clay bricks (e.g., Poroton/Unipor...), aerated concrete (e.g., Ytong, Hebel...), pumice-based blocks (e.g., Klimaleichtblock>KLB<, Iso-Bims, Pumix...), or Liapor products, which are made from expanded clay pellets.
Ultimately, it also depends on what local builders prefer to work with—what they know and therefore recommend. Usually, it makes little sense to convince a chosen contractor to work with a product they are unfamiliar with.
My tip: Focus on the planning phase first. Everything else (including the budget) usually falls into place after that.
D
dachspezi4 Dec 2010 11:00Hello, I faced the same problem and was looking for the "best brick." I then asked some masons in my circle of acquaintances, and one gave me a useful answer or challenge.
He said: Leave a clay brick and an aerated concrete block outside over the winter and see which one is better preserved afterwards.
I chose the aerated concrete block because it absorbs very little moisture and therefore suffers less damage during freezing and thawing cycles. Another advantage I noticed was that less moisture is released during construction when bonding the blocks.
It also provides a smooth surface both inside and outside, which saves money when plastering the house.
So, I chose the 36cm (14 inch) block without additional insulation and am completely satisfied. It’s better to insulate the roof properly since heat naturally rises, and to let the house walls breathe.
Best regards,
Dachspezi
He said: Leave a clay brick and an aerated concrete block outside over the winter and see which one is better preserved afterwards.
I chose the aerated concrete block because it absorbs very little moisture and therefore suffers less damage during freezing and thawing cycles. Another advantage I noticed was that less moisture is released during construction when bonding the blocks.
It also provides a smooth surface both inside and outside, which saves money when plastering the house.
So, I chose the 36cm (14 inch) block without additional insulation and am completely satisfied. It’s better to insulate the roof properly since heat naturally rises, and to let the house walls breathe.
Best regards,
Dachspezi
Hello Dachspezi,
In the end, you have chosen the most absorbent type of block (Ytong = aerated concrete), regardless of what your “winter self-test according to a known mason’s recommendation” showed? Therefore, I consider your statement, “That it absorbs little moisture,” simply incorrect!
What do you mean by “dew cycle”???? I have never heard this term before.
The fact that a thin-bed mortar (that’s the term for what you described as “gluing” the blocks) introduces less moisture has nothing to do with the material “aerated concrete”… this is the same for ALL other products compared to traditional mortar masonry!
It also does not save a single cent if aerated concrete blocks are used for plastering work due to a smoother surface. This product requires a thin coat of plaster and/or an appropriate primer because of the high absorbency, for a regular interior plaster (which will again mean additional costs). So, there is no price advantage as you suggested here.
Insulation values must meet the requirements not only for the roof area but also for the walls… the ground-floor walls release their heat to the exterior envelope, not to the roof area… and walls “cannot breathe”…! If they could, they would need lungs… but they don’t, so they don’t breathe! You should avoid such expressions; they are technically incorrect.
This is just to clarify… of course, aerated concrete products can be used, just like many others… which was explicitly asked in this thread.
In the end, you have chosen the most absorbent type of block (Ytong = aerated concrete), regardless of what your “winter self-test according to a known mason’s recommendation” showed? Therefore, I consider your statement, “That it absorbs little moisture,” simply incorrect!
What do you mean by “dew cycle”???? I have never heard this term before.
The fact that a thin-bed mortar (that’s the term for what you described as “gluing” the blocks) introduces less moisture has nothing to do with the material “aerated concrete”… this is the same for ALL other products compared to traditional mortar masonry!
It also does not save a single cent if aerated concrete blocks are used for plastering work due to a smoother surface. This product requires a thin coat of plaster and/or an appropriate primer because of the high absorbency, for a regular interior plaster (which will again mean additional costs). So, there is no price advantage as you suggested here.
Insulation values must meet the requirements not only for the roof area but also for the walls… the ground-floor walls release their heat to the exterior envelope, not to the roof area… and walls “cannot breathe”…! If they could, they would need lungs… but they don’t, so they don’t breathe! You should avoid such expressions; they are technically incorrect.
This is just to clarify… of course, aerated concrete products can be used, just like many others… which was explicitly asked in this thread.
B
Bauexperte7 Dec 2010 11:07Hello BauLine,
Since I am – as you probably know – a big fan of aerated concrete, I cannot leave your answer as it is without further explanation.
For a comfortable, healthy indoor climate, indoor humidity levels need to be controlled. Relative humidity levels of 50–60% are considered optimal from a medical perspective. People still perceive indoor climates with up to 70% relative humidity as comfortable. At higher humidity levels, the air usually feels stuffy and there is an increased risk of moisture damage at thermal bridges or mold growth on wall surfaces. Even at a relative humidity of about 80% — in areas around thermal bridges, even as low as 60% — noticeable mold growth can appear on wall surfaces within a few days. The essential nutrient for this is unavoidable household dust deposits. The result is health-hazardous concentrations of spores in indoor air. Even with normal use, moisture peaks caused by activities like cooking or showering cannot be avoided. However, building materials with a high moisture buffering capacity can reduce these moisture peaks to below 80% relative humidity. Aerated concrete is the wall construction material with the highest moisture buffering capacity.
Due to its porous structure, aerated concrete can quickly absorb larger amounts of moisture from the air and release it again. This effectively buffers peaks in relative humidity, for example after cooking or showering, and almost completely prevents the risk of mold formation. This does not mean that residents can neglect regular ventilation of their home. However, the indoor climate becomes more stable and ventilation errors are more easily tolerated.
Source: M. Reick, M. J. Setzer: Investigation of the Sorption Behavior of Enclosing Materials in Residential Spaces, Building Physics of Exterior Walls, 1998.
Kind regards
Since I am – as you probably know – a big fan of aerated concrete, I cannot leave your answer as it is without further explanation.
BauLine schrieb:
But in the end, you chose the most absorbent stone (Ytong = aerated concrete)…
For a comfortable, healthy indoor climate, indoor humidity levels need to be controlled. Relative humidity levels of 50–60% are considered optimal from a medical perspective. People still perceive indoor climates with up to 70% relative humidity as comfortable. At higher humidity levels, the air usually feels stuffy and there is an increased risk of moisture damage at thermal bridges or mold growth on wall surfaces. Even at a relative humidity of about 80% — in areas around thermal bridges, even as low as 60% — noticeable mold growth can appear on wall surfaces within a few days. The essential nutrient for this is unavoidable household dust deposits. The result is health-hazardous concentrations of spores in indoor air. Even with normal use, moisture peaks caused by activities like cooking or showering cannot be avoided. However, building materials with a high moisture buffering capacity can reduce these moisture peaks to below 80% relative humidity. Aerated concrete is the wall construction material with the highest moisture buffering capacity.
Due to its porous structure, aerated concrete can quickly absorb larger amounts of moisture from the air and release it again. This effectively buffers peaks in relative humidity, for example after cooking or showering, and almost completely prevents the risk of mold formation. This does not mean that residents can neglect regular ventilation of their home. However, the indoor climate becomes more stable and ventilation errors are more easily tolerated.
Source: M. Reick, M. J. Setzer: Investigation of the Sorption Behavior of Enclosing Materials in Residential Spaces, Building Physics of Exterior Walls, 1998.
Kind regards
Similar topics