ᐅ Which Heating System Is Best for a New Single-Family Home?

You can’t compare the ventilation in a car. That system is rather coarse.
You would have to compare it to a chimney with an open fire.

You hardly notice the ventilation in the house. You have to put your hand over the outlet to feel it. The current air volume flow is 170 cubic meters per hour (cubic feet per hour), which is roughly one-third of the total volume.
Supply air temperature is 34°C (93°F)
Room temperature is 22°C (72°F)
Bathroom temperature is 25°C (77°F)
No electric heaters are running. However, the three water-based radiators are operating with a flow temperature of 35°C (95°F).
Snow is expected tonight.

Why do you say it’s inhomogeneous? All rooms have the same temperature except the bathroom. There are no cold or warm spots.

@TE I do not have a Proxon air-to-air heat pump.
Despite being a Passive House, it has an air-to-water heat pump, just without underfloor heating.

haydee schrieb:
Despite being a passive house, it has an air-to-water heat pump, just without underfloor heating.

Then it would be an air-to-air heat pump, or do you have additional heating surfaces besides the ventilation heating? Is the heat source exhaust air or outside air?

What is your annual electricity consumption for heating?

Search for LWZ 604 air or TCO 2.5

A pilot installation has been running here for 14 months and has now overcome almost all initial teething problems.

haydee schrieb:
Google for LWZ 604 air or TCO 2.5

I found little information about the construction, mostly just marketing talk. For exhaust air rooms, a water-based heating surface is necessary or at least recommended. This reduces the savings when buying, which is actually the main purpose of an air-to-air heat pump. The potentially lower efficiency is acceptable in passive houses.

The manufacturer states suitability up to a heating load of 10W/m2, but a typical KfW40 house is usually well above that: either it stays cold when the compressor cannot provide more power and supplemental electric heating is needed even at mild temperatures, or at best the seasonal performance factor decreases due to the higher heating temperatures.

In general, Stiebel heat pumps do not stand out negatively, at least that’s my impression from forum discussions and consumption reports. This may be because they are not installed as a retrofit in unsuitable houses.

On the other hand, the heating system #1 mentioned in the original post is known in forums primarily for poor service and excessive energy consumption caused by completely faulty planning.

I stick to my advice and strongly recommend against using an air-based heating system unless the builder knows exactly what they are doing.

Since around October, it has been running relatively stable even though updates are still coming. The hardware and software base is the 504. It has never been cold. The compressor was sufficient for us even at two-digit negative temperatures in Celsius.

It provides a nice, consistent warmth. Not comparable to a car heater.

The water-based heating circuit is intended for underfloor heating in the bathroom or, in open floor plans, in overflow rooms, but it is not mandatory.

The most important thing is to have a reasonably meaningful energy consumption value by the end of the next heating season. Major errors will be eliminated.