ᐅ VHF vs ETICS Facade – 1970s Older Building with Concrete/Brick Structure

By insulation, do you mean preventing cold air from coming through the window? That’s relatively unimportant with modern windows. The roller shutter box is insulated anyway.

However, I’m surprised that blinds are supposed to be cheaper, as they usually cost more. If you choose them, it’s typically because you can tilt them to allow more light in while still providing shade.

Thank you, so the additional thermal insulation is irrelevant. The blinds are cheaper only because they are a Czech brand, but with Somfy motors. On the other hand, the roller shutters from Bubbendorf are solar-powered, foldable (with adjustable slats), come with a 7-year warranty, so they are like a Rolls Royce, but then I wouldn’t have to install electrical wiring. Unfortunately, they don’t have built-in insect screens.

The local carpenter favors an uneven glass wool insulated ventilated facade (VHF) with fiber cement boards (Eternit Timboard) due to the cost-performance ratio.
The energy consultant says that the uneven approach (i.e., two layers of 8 cm (3 inches) glass wool with the first layer pressed into the wooden substructure) is "old style." Nowadays, everything is done uniformly – 16 cm (6 inches) insulation blocks either doweled on or securely fixed with angled dowels. I believe the carpenter has been installing facades this way (uneven) for some time, and I’m hesitant to contradict him. Sometimes, as a layperson, it’s not advisable to interfere with the experts, but what do you think? I will definitely ask why. Regarding the parapet cladding of the porch roof, that’s a really good idea. I’m still looking for someone (are they plumbers?) who can clad it with a standing seam including the side wall, or should the side wall be done like the facade with fiber cement, and only the top panel have the seam?

The Bubbendorf solar roller blinds are about the same price as the venetian blinds plus electricity. I prefer the solar-powered option. However, if two empty ducts are installed from the attic floor down to the windows in the basement, it still creates thermal bridges (that is, the exit at the attic floor, which is unheated/unoccupied).

Hard to believe, but I’m back—though still without a facade. I have already submitted all the details and placed the order. Last week, the contracted carpenter stood me up, left me with unfinished work, verbally quit, and walked away. Now I’m left with covered walls, but at least the XPS foundation insulation is in place, wrapped in stainless steel (18cm (7 inches)). Hopefully, I’ll receive 2-3 quotes soon. The options vary: blown-in insulation on timber studs, wood fiberboard, ventilated facade followed by battens with fiber cement panels (such as Cembrit or Eternit), larch siding, or aluminum siding (which is expensive but low maintenance). Alternatively, mineral wool can be fitted by friction into the timber substructure, or glass or stone wool installed on an aluminum substructure as insulation. I’m leaning toward blown-in insulation, as glass wool just doesn’t appeal to me. The reveals are a major issue because space is tight. Has anyone had cellulose insulation blown into a ventilated facade system and can share their experience with how it holds up over the years? Thanks