ᐅ Different Wall Systems for Houses, Load-Bearing Capacity, and Strength
Created on: 13 Jul 2025 14:48
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Flo&Steffi
Hello dear forum,
Our names are Florian and Stefanie, both in our mid-40s. We have already built two houses in our lives, both using solid construction methods. Now we are about to build our third house, which we will move into and sell the other two. Our dream (which we couldn’t realize before due to building plan restrictions/planning permission constraints) is to have an alpine chalet-style house, with 1.25m (4 feet) roof overhangs, plastered on the lower part, wood cladding on the upper part, small muntin windows, and so on, situated on a beautiful hillside plot with a view.
We are now looking into the different construction methods for timber frame houses. I have thoroughly researched various manufacturers and their wall assembly methods. However, I couldn’t really find much on their practical performance after construction. Since the suppliers all claim to have the best wall system in the universe, and one can’t necessarily rely 100% on their statements, I’d like to raise a question regarding prefabricated construction.
Some providers, such as Schwabenhaus, still use wall assemblies today that have only 12mm (0.5 inch) gypsum plasterboard on both the outside and inside. As a fairly experienced craftsman, I want to ask: how do you properly fix things to the walls in such houses without having to specifically hit the timber framing behind?
It is clear that gypsum board has some load-bearing capacity, especially with drywall anchors. But when I use those, I always puncture the vapor barrier that lies immediately behind the plasterboard in all such systems from every provider. Isn’t that a huge downside, or am I missing something here?
For example, Bien-Zenker takes a different approach. They use Knauf hardboard on the inside, which I know from my own experience. It’s like concrete for fixing purposes; I would even categorize its load-bearing capacity as better than brick. Schwörerhaus (and others) also install a wood-based panel behind the drywall on the inside, which is also highly load-bearing. The total thickness is usually around 12.5 + 18mm (0.5 + 0.7 inches), so about 30mm (1.2 inches), which allows you to fix things securely with 5-6 x 30mm (2 x 1.2 inch) wood screws. With the precise use of these screws, I can fix wherever I want without ever hitting the vapor barrier. Schwörerhaus even has, unlike all others, a composite board with very high load capacity under the plaster base on the exterior.
How is this handled, for example, by Schwabenhaus? From a purely technical perspective, should this provider be ruled out because of this one issue, or am I mistaken as I said earlier?
Best regards to everyone.
Our names are Florian and Stefanie, both in our mid-40s. We have already built two houses in our lives, both using solid construction methods. Now we are about to build our third house, which we will move into and sell the other two. Our dream (which we couldn’t realize before due to building plan restrictions/planning permission constraints) is to have an alpine chalet-style house, with 1.25m (4 feet) roof overhangs, plastered on the lower part, wood cladding on the upper part, small muntin windows, and so on, situated on a beautiful hillside plot with a view.
We are now looking into the different construction methods for timber frame houses. I have thoroughly researched various manufacturers and their wall assembly methods. However, I couldn’t really find much on their practical performance after construction. Since the suppliers all claim to have the best wall system in the universe, and one can’t necessarily rely 100% on their statements, I’d like to raise a question regarding prefabricated construction.
Some providers, such as Schwabenhaus, still use wall assemblies today that have only 12mm (0.5 inch) gypsum plasterboard on both the outside and inside. As a fairly experienced craftsman, I want to ask: how do you properly fix things to the walls in such houses without having to specifically hit the timber framing behind?
It is clear that gypsum board has some load-bearing capacity, especially with drywall anchors. But when I use those, I always puncture the vapor barrier that lies immediately behind the plasterboard in all such systems from every provider. Isn’t that a huge downside, or am I missing something here?
For example, Bien-Zenker takes a different approach. They use Knauf hardboard on the inside, which I know from my own experience. It’s like concrete for fixing purposes; I would even categorize its load-bearing capacity as better than brick. Schwörerhaus (and others) also install a wood-based panel behind the drywall on the inside, which is also highly load-bearing. The total thickness is usually around 12.5 + 18mm (0.5 + 0.7 inches), so about 30mm (1.2 inches), which allows you to fix things securely with 5-6 x 30mm (2 x 1.2 inch) wood screws. With the precise use of these screws, I can fix wherever I want without ever hitting the vapor barrier. Schwörerhaus even has, unlike all others, a composite board with very high load capacity under the plaster base on the exterior.
How is this handled, for example, by Schwabenhaus? From a purely technical perspective, should this provider be ruled out because of this one issue, or am I mistaken as I said earlier?
Best regards to everyone.
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nordanney14 Jul 2025 09:34Flo&Steffi schrieb:
And yes, I have discussed this with all of them, and they all handle it individually. To repeat, yes, every standard home builder will offer you something. However, given your requirements, this is the most expensive option you can choose. Depending on the builder’s experience, it is also often not the version they build regularly, which can lead to more errors.
A more customized (including any wall construction you want for your 30kg (66 lb) pictures) and cheaper option is to have a house designed for your slope by an architect. Then it’s best to build with a local carpenter or similar, who might credit you just 3,000€ (not converted, per instructions) for omitting the heating, rather than the actual calculated 10,000€ (including profit), and instead deliver a shell construction so you can do your own finishing work.
Apart from that, timber framing on a slope is also not a straightforward undertaking. It has many disadvantages compared to a solid construction, at least for the basement level built into the slope.
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Flo&Steffi14 Jul 2025 10:00nordanney schrieb:
Once again. Yes, everyone will offer you something from the usual standard home builders. However, with your requirements, that is the most expensive option you can choose. And depending on the builder’s experience, it might not be the version that is commonly built and therefore might be prone to errors.
A more customized (including any desired wall construction for your 30kg (66 pounds) pictures) and more affordable solution is a house designed for the slope by an architect. Then preferably build with a local carpenter or similar tradesperson, who might only credit you around 3,000€ for omitting the heating system, rather than the actual calculated 10,000€ (including profit), and who provides a shell construction package for your own work.
Besides, timber frame construction on a slope is also not an easy task. It has many disadvantages compared to a solid (masonry or concrete) version, at least for the basement level built into the slope. Thank you.
Could you please briefly explain the topic of “disadvantages on a slope” again, if you wish? I am completely unaware of why that is the case and would be very grateful for any advice. Technically, I currently assume: “It doesn’t matter at all, because the solid concrete basement is on the slope, and whatever is built on top doesn’t matter.”
If that is not true, then this is a huge point that none of the local professionals have told me, even though I have obviously asked both a mason and a carpenter.
A brief note regarding the heating system: Everyone has fully credited the heating technology. Only Schwörerhaus leaves a difference in one item, “extended installation method,” which is just under 2,500€ difference compared to the full heat pump setup, which is fine for me. You always have to look at the big picture to see what the final apples-to-apples comparison actually shows.
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nordanney14 Jul 2025 10:05Flo&Steffi schrieb:
Because I currently assume technically: "It doesn’t matter at all, since the massive concrete basement is built on the slope, and whatever is built on top of it doesn’t matter." If that’s the case, then everything is fine. I had – and that’s why I’ve criticized this earlier – understood that you would get a prefabricated house entirely built with a timber frame construction, including the basement living floor. Because that would be something that could cause problems (or become expensive – either during construction or renovation).
Flo&Steffi schrieb:
A brief note about the heating system: Everyone credited the heating technology completely. Does that mean they shared their internal calculation for the heating system with you and then credited it? That would be new to me.
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Flo&Steffi14 Jul 2025 11:38nordanney schrieb:
If that’s the case, then everything is fine. I had - and therefore kept bringing it up earlier - understood that you would get a completely timber frame house from the prefab builders, including the basement living floor. Because that would be something that could cause problems (or be expensive – either during construction or renovation).
Does that mean they shared their internal calculation for the heating and then credited you accordingly? That would be new to me. No idea where you got that from. As I said, forums are extremely interesting; they reveal so many things you actually didn’t ask about. But still interesting for me, since I had never seen a concept with timber studs in the basement before, and it broadened my horizon anyway.
No, no internal calculation, which I’m not interested in anyway. If the offer states “HP: 28,900” and this amount is deducted if I don’t want it, then that’s fine by me. And all three included an HP item in their offer, with a proper breakdown of the individual position.
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nordanney14 Jul 2025 11:51Flo&Steffi schrieb:
No idea where you got that from.From the thread. You NEVER said that you would get a solid basement. You only literally said that the usual providers would also supply a livable basement. And only towards the end of the thread did you mention that the slope would no longer be a slope, but a normal plot of land thanks to the fill. Just reread your posts on the first pages 😉F
Flo&Steffi14 Jul 2025 11:57nordanney schrieb:
From the thread. You NEVER said that you would get a solid basement. You literally only mentioned that the usual providers would also deliver a basement suitable for living. And only towards the end of the thread did you say that the slope is no longer a slope but, thanks to filling, turns into a normal plot. Just read your posts on the first pages 😉 Of course, I never wrote that because I asked about interior walls, not basements. That’s exactly the point: I am getting answers to questions I never asked. Or is that wrong?
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