ᐅ Wood-burning stove or similar, with or without DIBt certification

Plasi schrieb:
According to the chimney sweep, both options are possible. What do you recommend?

Provided the local chimney inspector doesn’t mind either way...
Then ask yourself which is better:
Either installation of a simple wood stove plus installation of a draft monitor,
or
installation of a room-sealed certified (these are quite common nowadays) wood stove.
So, either a standard appliance with an additional safety check, or a self-contained functioning appliance...

Sebastian79 schrieb:
A simple pressure switch does not cost 350 euros plus installation – 2,000 is completely exaggerated.

The information I have for my installation situations from the heating engineer, the electrician, and the BSFM indicates costs between 1,500 and 2,000 euros. The pressure switch must not only be purchased but also integrated and connected.

Other homeowners I know who needed a pressure switch (for the ventilation system) confirm this view.

The device itself would have cost around 650 euros.

I bought one and connected it – there are two cables that need to be routed outside... quite an effort 😉

I'm not just speaking theoretically.

And the monitor is, of course, certified – the price of under 350 euros is understandable.

That's right, a P4 is often included, but we had to choose Wodtke – which then cost around 1,000 euros (about 1,000 USD), including a temperature sensor and accessories. If the chimney isn’t operating but there is still negative pressure detected, the pressure switch prevents the mechanical ventilation system from shutting off.

What does the pressure switch do? It cuts power to the mechanical ventilation system via a cable when negative pressure occurs—nothing more, nothing less. There is no need for complex integration, just connect a cable that was already installed during the construction phase. Installation took about 1.5 hours.

Exactly, I also have "just" the P4, but that should be enough...

Hi, my last post on this topic "price of differential pressure sensor" (because it’s almost off-topic).

Of course, I trust both of you that you managed to do it cheaper.

Regarding my situation and requirements, two companies independently quoted me within the price range I mentioned. When building, I always say: take the higher value.

- Naturally, a suitable 5-core cable is already installed up to the utility room. Since the electrical installation took place immediately after the building shell was completed, at a time when no one yet knew exactly where the ventilation system would be installed, it ends at a location I roughly estimated, but not perfectly. Additional installation work would be required, although not expensive.

- I don’t just drill a hole in my exterior wall lightly. The waterproofing against rain, driving rain, wind, and pressure must remain permanently intact. The exterior appearance should not be affected either.
So I would have had this done professionally, partly for warranty reasons (and also because after all the construction work, I really wouldn’t have wanted to do it myself).

- My ventilation system has a flue gas function.
A solution that simply cuts off power to the system via the distribution box would not have been an option for me. This means the system would have to be modified (and additional parts would be necessary, which I did not examine in detail). I would not have done this myself anyway, due to warranty reasons (and as mentioned above: no desire to deal with it).
Now – the flue gas function can also be activated manually, and I do this when I light the fireplace.

So, *for me*, the mentioned price resulted.
Just as it was cheaper for you.

I’m glad I was spared from this.

Thorsten