ᐅ Shower tray or tiled shower drain?

The flowable shower element is quite thick. Even if I completely remove the screed, it still won’t align with the floor level. Is there perhaps a type of membrane or foil that can be placed under the tile adhesive as a precaution?

If you don’t use a prefabricated shower element, a standard sloped screed is installed, which is then waterproofed multiple times. That’s exactly what I’m having done right now. My underfloor heating is also embedded in the screed. The screed installer has already laid the screed with a slight slope toward the centrally positioned drain. A waterproof coating was applied on top of that. Today, an additional fleece membrane (I’m not exactly sure of the name, but I can check at home if needed) was installed, fully adhered to the surface. It also serves as uncoupling because of the underfloor heating. The connections to the drain obviously require careful work. The tiling will then be done with the appropriate slope and miter cuts, because my floor tiles are 30 x 60cm (12 x 24 inches), too large to create the slope in four directions without cuts. With mosaic tiles, it might look different, but I wanted to minimize the number of grout lines. I had to rule out a wall drain because my maximum build-up height of 8–10cm (3–4 inches) was not enough to properly achieve the required slope (the shower is about 150cm (60 inches) long).

FrankH schrieb:
If you don’t use a prefabricated shower base, a standard sloped screed is installed and then waterproofed multiple times. I’m having this done in my place right now. The underfloor heating is also embedded in the screed. The screed installer has already laid the screed with a slight slope toward a central drain. A waterproof coating was applied on top of that. Today, an additional fleece membrane (I’m not exactly sure what it’s called; I can check at home if needed) was installed, which was fully glued down and also serves as uncoupling due to the underfloor heating. Careful work is necessary where the connections meet the drain. The floor will then be tiled with the appropriate slope and miter cuts, because my floor tiles measuring 30x60cm (12x24 inches) are too large to create the slope in four directions without cuts. With mosaic tiles, it might be different, but I preferred to have as few grout lines as possible. I had to forego a wall drain channel because my maximum build-up height of 8-10cm (3-4 inches) was not sufficient to properly create the required slope (the shower will be about 150cm (60 inches) long).

Hi Frank. Please ask your plumber or tiler about the fleece membrane and the type of waterproof coating they are using. I will probably need to do all of this myself. Although I have tiled several times before (and learned a lot in the process ups), I haven’t installed a walk-in shower yet, and nobody wants water damage in their home.

The fleece is called Botament sealing and uncoupling membrane. I just looked up the name and found the manufacturer’s website.
There was definitely an edge sealing as well, which was glued and worked into the joint between the screed and the wall all around. I suspect it was the matching Botament SB 78 system sealing tape. Just search for the manufacturer, you’ll find other products there too.
I know some Sopro products were also used in my case (tile adhesive, primer or bonding agent, etc.), but I don’t know exactly which ones were used where. I’m not an expert and have to rely on my contractors.

Before starting the DIY work, I would recommend getting advice from a specialist building supply store. That’s where you’ll find the right products to buy; you’re unlikely to find them at a general hardware store (there might be similar items there, but the advice might not be as good).