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Neckarweg20 Mar 2016 10:45In my house, built in 1958, there is parquet flooring in the living room and bedroom. Unfortunately, it is no longer in the best condition. It is a light-colored floor with areas that have darkened unevenly. You can see where the previous owner had placed their furniture. In front of the patio door, some individual pieces are loose, and overall there are numerous gaps.
About 15 years ago, the parquet was sanded and lacquered once. At that time, it seems an attempt was made to fill the joints, but this mostly did not last long.
I am strongly tempted to simply remove the entire floor and replace it with wooden floorboards.
I am only wondering what might happen to the screed when I remove the glued-down flooring. How likely is it that I will face additional costs for repairing the screed? Could someone assess the risk? What could be the worst-case scenario?
How can I find out if the floor can be sanded again? (Aside from trial and error)
I would appreciate it if someone could share their experience regarding this...
About 15 years ago, the parquet was sanded and lacquered once. At that time, it seems an attempt was made to fill the joints, but this mostly did not last long.
I am strongly tempted to simply remove the entire floor and replace it with wooden floorboards.
I am only wondering what might happen to the screed when I remove the glued-down flooring. How likely is it that I will face additional costs for repairing the screed? Could someone assess the risk? What could be the worst-case scenario?
How can I find out if the floor can be sanded again? (Aside from trial and error)
I would appreciate it if someone could share their experience regarding this...
Neckarweg schrieb:
I’m just wondering what will happen to the screed if I remove the glued floor? Actually, nothing, since the floor is bonded to the adhesive.
Neckarweg schrieb:
How likely is it that I’ll face higher costs to repair the screed? Can someone assess the risk? What could happen in the worst case? It may be necessary to remove the adhesive from the screed using a renovation grinder.
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Neckarweg20 Mar 2016 12:20Thanks, Sigi,
yes, pictures would be great, but unfortunately, I only have some from the sales brochure, where it naturally looks fantastic. I will try to photograph the weak spots next week.
But am I understanding you correctly that removing it won’t cause major damage? I realize it would be a lot of work. :-)
Can we reasonably expect that afterward, with some leveling compound if necessary, there will be a flat screed surface suitable for installing floorboards?
Regarding the option to “spruce it up” again: I’m not really a fan of painted wood floors, so I would want to sand it down and then oil it. But that requires that the parquet still has enough thickness left to be sanded again. Okay, so we’re back to the topic of photos….
yes, pictures would be great, but unfortunately, I only have some from the sales brochure, where it naturally looks fantastic. I will try to photograph the weak spots next week.
But am I understanding you correctly that removing it won’t cause major damage? I realize it would be a lot of work. :-)
Can we reasonably expect that afterward, with some leveling compound if necessary, there will be a flat screed surface suitable for installing floorboards?
Regarding the option to “spruce it up” again: I’m not really a fan of painted wood floors, so I would want to sand it down and then oil it. But that requires that the parquet still has enough thickness left to be sanded again. Okay, so we’re back to the topic of photos….
If you write
Neckarweg schrieb:I wouldn’t hesitate long but rather tear out the old material and replace it. I think renovation work will be necessary anyway, so it could be done at the same time.
Some parts in front of the patio door are loose, and there are numerous gaps overall.
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Neckarweg20 Mar 2016 12:51That’s also my gut feeling. Once I’ve moved in, the effort involved will be significantly greater.
But then a whole series of follow-up questions arise:
If the ceiling height is already only 236 cm (93 inches), how can I install a nice wooden floor without losing too much headroom?
Floorboards are more attractive than parquet, at least to me. But a substructure is out of the question due to the overall height and the transition to tiles in the kitchen and bathroom.
Is it possible for a non-professional, with a reasonable chance of success (better than the parquet installer 50 years ago), to glue down a wooden floor securely?
According to the previous owners, impact noise is definitely an issue in the house, so floating installation wouldn’t be a good idea, right? (tongue-and-groove floorboards)
Next question: If wooden floorboards are used, should they be installed in all living areas individually, with stops at the doorways, or should they run continuously through the rooms as one piece? Does this make a difference in terms of impact sound?
But then a whole series of follow-up questions arise:
If the ceiling height is already only 236 cm (93 inches), how can I install a nice wooden floor without losing too much headroom?
Floorboards are more attractive than parquet, at least to me. But a substructure is out of the question due to the overall height and the transition to tiles in the kitchen and bathroom.
Is it possible for a non-professional, with a reasonable chance of success (better than the parquet installer 50 years ago), to glue down a wooden floor securely?
According to the previous owners, impact noise is definitely an issue in the house, so floating installation wouldn’t be a good idea, right? (tongue-and-groove floorboards)
Next question: If wooden floorboards are used, should they be installed in all living areas individually, with stops at the doorways, or should they run continuously through the rooms as one piece? Does this make a difference in terms of impact sound?
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