ᐅ Adhesive for hardwood flooring on underfloor heating, solvent-free and low-emission?
Created on: 5 Oct 2020 17:33
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netuserHello everyone!
It will probably be some time before this topic becomes relevant for us, but I would like to gather some information about parquet adhesive in advance. So far, I have always installed all "wood flooring" as floating floors, but I am considering gluing it down in the future house.
Who has good knowledge on this subject and can provide specific advice on what to pay special attention to?
To be honest, I’m quite confused because many product descriptions hardly differ from each other, despite sometimes significant price differences.
Is it sufficient, for example, to rely on the adhesive having the following properties:
1. water- and solvent-free
2. very low emissions according to EC1 and odorless
3. suitable for underfloor heating
How should the different open times be evaluated? Some are specified as about 30 minutes, others up to 50-60 minutes. Is a longer open time better or not necessarily?
Shelf life is usually stated as 1 year.
Is the adhesive unusable after that, or is this just a formal indication with little practical relevance?
A specific example:
Does anyone happen to know the Murexin X-Bond MS-K509 adhesive and can recommend it?
Thanks in advance!
It will probably be some time before this topic becomes relevant for us, but I would like to gather some information about parquet adhesive in advance. So far, I have always installed all "wood flooring" as floating floors, but I am considering gluing it down in the future house.
Who has good knowledge on this subject and can provide specific advice on what to pay special attention to?
To be honest, I’m quite confused because many product descriptions hardly differ from each other, despite sometimes significant price differences.
Is it sufficient, for example, to rely on the adhesive having the following properties:
1. water- and solvent-free
2. very low emissions according to EC1 and odorless
3. suitable for underfloor heating
How should the different open times be evaluated? Some are specified as about 30 minutes, others up to 50-60 minutes. Is a longer open time better or not necessarily?
Shelf life is usually stated as 1 year.
Is the adhesive unusable after that, or is this just a formal indication with little practical relevance?
A specific example:
Does anyone happen to know the Murexin X-Bond MS-K509 adhesive and can recommend it?
Thanks in advance!
N
nordanney5 Oct 2020 19:38netuser schrieb:
Is it sufficient, for example, to rely on the adhesive having the following properties:
1. water- and solvent-free
2. very low emissions according to EC1 and odorless
3. suitable for underfloor heating Yes. But don’t just rely on that—also pay attention to the product description.
netuser schrieb:
How should the different open times be assessed? Some are given as around 30 minutes, others up to 50–60 minutes. Is longer better or not necessarily? The longer it stays open on the floor, the longer you can lay the parquet. Since, as a “layperson,” you will usually work on smaller areas, 30 minutes is sufficient.
netuser schrieb:
Is the adhesive unusable afterwards, or is the specified open time just a formality and not very relevant in practice? It’s like with food. Still usable after a year. Maybe after two years the top layer has fully cured (kind of like the skin on cooked pudding), but underneath it can still be used. I don’t see a reason to keep the adhesive for that long, though. No need to stockpile it.
By the way, I have had very good experience with Bona.
Thank you!
Trusting the description was what I meant.
They won’t necessarily be smaller areas, but of course that is relative. Thirty minutes seems sufficient to me, although I can’t judge from practical experience whether a longer time would be better or possibly even disadvantageous.
Okay, good to know! I thought that after 12 months it might actually harden or lose its adhesive properties to the point where it shouldn’t be used anymore.
nordanney schrieb:
Yes. But don’t trust it blindly; pay attention to the description
Trusting the description was what I meant.
nordanney schrieb:
The longer it stays open on the floor, the longer you can install the parquet. Since you, as a "layperson," will probably work on smaller areas, 30 minutes is enough.
They won’t necessarily be smaller areas, but of course that is relative. Thirty minutes seems sufficient to me, although I can’t judge from practical experience whether a longer time would be better or possibly even disadvantageous.
nordanney schrieb:
It’s like with food. Still usable after a year. Maybe after two years the top layer has fully hardened (kind of like the skin on cooked pudding), but underneath you can still use it. I don’t see any reason to keep the adhesive for that long. You don’t need to stockpile it.
By the way, I’ve had very good experience with Bona.
Okay, good to know! I thought that after 12 months it might actually harden or lose its adhesive properties to the point where it shouldn’t be used anymore.
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fach1werk8 Oct 2020 09:14I highly recommend consulting the technical data sheets from the manufacturers, as these provide much more useful information than the brief description on a container. I also found it necessary to get good advice from a specialized store with practical experience in application. For us, both approaches led to the same conclusion, which gave some reassurance. Ultimately, the choice depends a bit on personal preference.
With the knowledge we have, I would avoid 2-component (2K) materials because I find them too toxic to handle. Once fully cured, however, they are quite stable. Furthermore, I would avoid materials that cure completely rigid. I prefer ones that remain somewhat elastic since seasonal changes need to be absorbed. It’s also possible to accidentally create a spot under tension somewhere. Overall, I think if a product does not emit fumes during application, it often releases substances such as plasticizers over a long period afterward. I didn’t find any adhesives on the market that combined strong bonding power with completely harmless ingredients. Avoiding permanent emissions would be more important to me, but everyone has to decide that for themselves. Personally, I find working with some drafts more acceptable. An adhesive with a long open time often slows down the progress of work.
Our adhesive had a consistency you have to get used to; it was like sticky honey with a nasty viscosity. With some practice, it went well, but I still found it tricky. Partially used containers could only be used the next day if the surface had been carefully sealed airtight with cling film. Even then, the top few centimeters had to be removed, and removing the film itself was quite messy.
We used Wakol MS 260. Be sure to order the cleaning wipes as well. I don’t want to know what’s in them, but I needed them.
Best regards
Gabriele
With the knowledge we have, I would avoid 2-component (2K) materials because I find them too toxic to handle. Once fully cured, however, they are quite stable. Furthermore, I would avoid materials that cure completely rigid. I prefer ones that remain somewhat elastic since seasonal changes need to be absorbed. It’s also possible to accidentally create a spot under tension somewhere. Overall, I think if a product does not emit fumes during application, it often releases substances such as plasticizers over a long period afterward. I didn’t find any adhesives on the market that combined strong bonding power with completely harmless ingredients. Avoiding permanent emissions would be more important to me, but everyone has to decide that for themselves. Personally, I find working with some drafts more acceptable. An adhesive with a long open time often slows down the progress of work.
Our adhesive had a consistency you have to get used to; it was like sticky honey with a nasty viscosity. With some practice, it went well, but I still found it tricky. Partially used containers could only be used the next day if the surface had been carefully sealed airtight with cling film. Even then, the top few centimeters had to be removed, and removing the film itself was quite messy.
We used Wakol MS 260. Be sure to order the cleaning wipes as well. I don’t want to know what’s in them, but I needed them.
Best regards
Gabriele
Thank you for sharing your experience!
My current problem is that the technical datasheets are often very similar, but practical experience with each product is missing. Therefore, rating them as "bad/good/better" is somewhat difficult. I will take your advice into account, thank you.
My current problem is that the technical datasheets are often very similar, but practical experience with each product is missing. Therefore, rating them as "bad/good/better" is somewhat difficult. I will take your advice into account, thank you.
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