ᐅ Liapor or Traditional Masonry: Which Construction Method Is Better?
Created on: 8 Jan 2020 15:42
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Seven1984S
Seven19848 Jan 2020 15:42Hello everyone,
We are planning our bungalow, and our architect has had good experiences with a Liapor construction. According to her, this building method is quite cost-effective and environmentally friendly. She would choose to build like this for herself.
I am not familiar with this building material personally, but it seems to be lightweight concrete with expanded clay aggregate. It sounds natural and promising at first.
I definitely do not want to use polystyrene insulation and, as a layperson, was considering T7/T8 blocks filled with perlite.
The plan is to achieve KfW 40+ energy standard.
However, I am just an amateur and would like to hear other opinions.
Thank you!
We are planning our bungalow, and our architect has had good experiences with a Liapor construction. According to her, this building method is quite cost-effective and environmentally friendly. She would choose to build like this for herself.
I am not familiar with this building material personally, but it seems to be lightweight concrete with expanded clay aggregate. It sounds natural and promising at first.
I definitely do not want to use polystyrene insulation and, as a layperson, was considering T7/T8 blocks filled with perlite.
The plan is to achieve KfW 40+ energy standard.
However, I am just an amateur and would like to hear other opinions.
Thank you!
Seven1984 schrieb:
Liapor or traditional masonry: Which construction method is better?I think the question is somewhat misleading since, as far as I know, Liapor is also available in the form of masonry blocks. Therefore, something like "masonry - Liapor, aerated clay bricks, or aerated concrete blocks" might make more sense. One of my mantras is to use the material the builder is most familiar with — here, you could also reasonably substitute the architect working for the builder. So, if you plan to build with this architect, I would recommend Liapor rather than KLB or Bisotherm, unless the architect only praises it in theory and has no practical experience.
What material is the basement made of, assuming this still concerns the one mentioned here https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/Bungalow-geplant-auf-vorhandenem-Keller-Ideen.33057/?
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I see the following issues with this type of filled block:
First: When you drill into it, you quickly reach the polystyrene/bead core. Attaching heavy objects to the wall is not that simple. You need special anchors and so on.
If the block gets wet, water damage occurs, the inner insulation also becomes wet and never dries out again. Mold forms inside the block, and the thermal insulation is lost.
If you want to build on a wall without an external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS / external wall insulation), you should use monolithic aerated concrete blocks. They are simple, cost-effective, and resistant to algae.
First: When you drill into it, you quickly reach the polystyrene/bead core. Attaching heavy objects to the wall is not that simple. You need special anchors and so on.
If the block gets wet, water damage occurs, the inner insulation also becomes wet and never dries out again. Mold forms inside the block, and the thermal insulation is lost.
If you want to build on a wall without an external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS / external wall insulation), you should use monolithic aerated concrete blocks. They are simple, cost-effective, and resistant to algae.
@Nordlys is right! Additionally, you are committing to a very specific manufacturer. Aerated concrete is available from numerous manufacturers. Furthermore, wall fixings and openings are not a problem. They have been tested extensively!
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Seven19849 Jan 2020 10:18Hello everyone,
sounds reasonable – aerated concrete blocks with a thickness of 42.5cm (17 inches) should be sufficient for a KfW 40(plus) house, right?
Thanks to you all!
PS: This is still about the basement. It consists of T7/T8 blocks filled with perlite.
Edit: according to Ytong, for example, they are:
U-value = 0.16 W/(m²K)
48.0 cm (19 inches) Ytong PP 2-0.35, λ = 0.08
sounds reasonable – aerated concrete blocks with a thickness of 42.5cm (17 inches) should be sufficient for a KfW 40(plus) house, right?
Thanks to you all!
PS: This is still about the basement. It consists of T7/T8 blocks filled with perlite.
Edit: according to Ytong, for example, they are:
U-value = 0.16 W/(m²K)
48.0 cm (19 inches) Ytong PP 2-0.35, λ = 0.08
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