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Wilhelm202210 Mar 2022 21:40Hello everyone,
unfortunately, I have a problem and haven’t been able to find a solution through Google, so I’m hoping to get some advice from you.
I bought a house from the 1970s and am currently renovating the bathroom on the upper floor. During this process, the bathroom installer removed the knee wall and took off the drywall from the sloped ceiling. Now the question is whether it makes sense to insulate the sloped ceiling and the ceiling in the bathroom with a vapor retarder or if this would cause mold issues in the adjacent stairwell, where I would prefer not to remove the drywall and reinsulate, due to potential thermal bridging.
On the opposite side is the children’s room, where I plan to install a roof window (Velux-type). Here, of course, the question arises whether I should also insulate the sloped ceiling since half of it will already be open for the window installation. However, this would mean removing the knee wall, which is made of Ytong (aerated concrete), to access the roof’s kneewall area. Honestly, that seems like too much effort given there are many other ongoing projects.
I would really appreciate any feedback from you. Thank you in advance,
Wilhelm
unfortunately, I have a problem and haven’t been able to find a solution through Google, so I’m hoping to get some advice from you.
I bought a house from the 1970s and am currently renovating the bathroom on the upper floor. During this process, the bathroom installer removed the knee wall and took off the drywall from the sloped ceiling. Now the question is whether it makes sense to insulate the sloped ceiling and the ceiling in the bathroom with a vapor retarder or if this would cause mold issues in the adjacent stairwell, where I would prefer not to remove the drywall and reinsulate, due to potential thermal bridging.
On the opposite side is the children’s room, where I plan to install a roof window (Velux-type). Here, of course, the question arises whether I should also insulate the sloped ceiling since half of it will already be open for the window installation. However, this would mean removing the knee wall, which is made of Ytong (aerated concrete), to access the roof’s kneewall area. Honestly, that seems like too much effort given there are many other ongoing projects.
I would really appreciate any feedback from you. Thank you in advance,
Wilhelm
We clearly don’t know enough about your house to give you any more meaningful answers than “42” ;-)
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Wilhelm202211 Mar 2022 07:51:-D Ok. I hear that quite often. Being a builder is really challenging. The different trades are already struggling as well. What additional information do I need to provide to get a meaningful assessment?
The rafters are 15cm (6 inches) thick along the slope; there is more space available in the ceiling. Currently, there is this old insulation installed, but it has been damaged by rats, so I would definitely like to replace it anyway. However, if I end up causing more harm than good by doing so, I naturally have some doubts.
Thanks
The rafters are 15cm (6 inches) thick along the slope; there is more space available in the ceiling. Currently, there is this old insulation installed, but it has been damaged by rats, so I would definitely like to replace it anyway. However, if I end up causing more harm than good by doing so, I naturally have some doubts.
Thanks
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Wilhelm202211 Mar 2022 08:46The roof is a carpentry structure made of softwood quality class II, with wooden boarding on top.
Wilhelm2022 schrieb:
:-D Ok. I hear that quite often. Being a client is really difficult. Even the different trades are getting overwhelmed. What other information do I need to provide so that a meaningful assessment can be made? In short: everything – completely, without exceptions. You have several threads "running" here – yet it seems you’ve overlooked that no one can read your mind. All your questions are very poorly illustrated, so neither a helpful reader nor a contractor you hire can develop any solution strategies. Create an overview as a basis for clarity: floor plans (of all levels), sections (at least one, parallel to the gable). Being an advisor or contractor for someone like you, THAT is truly difficult!
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Wilhelm202213 Mar 2022 20:54Hello 11ANT,
thank you for your straightforward response. It seems you’ve noticed that I have very little experience when it comes to renovating a house. You read one thing here, something else there, and then a third article says something completely different. That obviously doesn’t help to understand how to approach problems. However, I am realizing during the renovation that it’s really not rocket science.
Regarding my question here, I was expecting a simple answer like: “Yes, of course you can do that, if you adjust the insulation within the next two or three years, because using insulation materials with different effectiveness can cause condensation due to thermal bridges and your roof structure can start to rot,” or “No, definitely not, because problem x will cause more issues than it solves,” or “Go ahead, mold won’t develop that quickly.”
It really isn’t that complicated... Of course, no one can read my mind, and sometimes I might assume things that a reader obviously wouldn’t know. For that, I apologize.
And since you mentioned my other questions: an experienced electrician knows what an electrical distribution box costs today. You get overcharged everywhere these days, so I just wanted to ask what a fuse box costs. If someone asks me about the price of a used 2010 BMW, I can still say that 30,000 euros is too much, no matter what equipment it has.
Still, many thanks to everyone who takes the time to answer my questions.
Have a nice evening.
thank you for your straightforward response. It seems you’ve noticed that I have very little experience when it comes to renovating a house. You read one thing here, something else there, and then a third article says something completely different. That obviously doesn’t help to understand how to approach problems. However, I am realizing during the renovation that it’s really not rocket science.
Regarding my question here, I was expecting a simple answer like: “Yes, of course you can do that, if you adjust the insulation within the next two or three years, because using insulation materials with different effectiveness can cause condensation due to thermal bridges and your roof structure can start to rot,” or “No, definitely not, because problem x will cause more issues than it solves,” or “Go ahead, mold won’t develop that quickly.”
It really isn’t that complicated... Of course, no one can read my mind, and sometimes I might assume things that a reader obviously wouldn’t know. For that, I apologize.
And since you mentioned my other questions: an experienced electrician knows what an electrical distribution box costs today. You get overcharged everywhere these days, so I just wanted to ask what a fuse box costs. If someone asks me about the price of a used 2010 BMW, I can still say that 30,000 euros is too much, no matter what equipment it has.
Still, many thanks to everyone who takes the time to answer my questions.
Have a nice evening.
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