ᐅ Should the hydraulic balancing and individual room control be deactivated?
Created on: 6 Oct 2020 12:15
G
Golfi90
Hello everyone!
Since the heating season is slowly but surely starting again, I would like to begin adjusting our heating system (Viessmann Vitodens 200W 13 kW).
We built to KFW 55 standard with underfloor heating.
I keep reading about the hydraulic balancing. I would like to check and possibly readjust it!
Our heating technician was very committed… but not much more than that! That’s why I want to check everything myself.
How do I readjust the hydraulic balancing?
I set all room thermostats to full power (room temperature to 30°C (86°F) for example) and then check the “sight glasses” on the manifold to bring all flows to the same level, or am I misunderstanding something?
Since we have a weather-compensated system, does that affect anything?
If the balancing is correctly adjusted, what should I do next?
I would like to deactivate the ERR (electric radiator valves). How do I do that? Can I simply unplug the motors? Would they then be fully open?
If the ERR is deactivated (whatever the procedure), how do I then regulate the room temperature? Only by adjusting the flow or return water temperature of the heating system?
I would like to keep the weather-compensated control (is that possible?). Then I guess I would have to adjust the rest theoretically via the heating curve, right? How does that work?
It would be great if some experts here could offer me a bit of guidance.
Since the heating season is slowly but surely starting again, I would like to begin adjusting our heating system (Viessmann Vitodens 200W 13 kW).
We built to KFW 55 standard with underfloor heating.
I keep reading about the hydraulic balancing. I would like to check and possibly readjust it!
Our heating technician was very committed… but not much more than that! That’s why I want to check everything myself.
How do I readjust the hydraulic balancing?
I set all room thermostats to full power (room temperature to 30°C (86°F) for example) and then check the “sight glasses” on the manifold to bring all flows to the same level, or am I misunderstanding something?
Since we have a weather-compensated system, does that affect anything?
If the balancing is correctly adjusted, what should I do next?
I would like to deactivate the ERR (electric radiator valves). How do I do that? Can I simply unplug the motors? Would they then be fully open?
If the ERR is deactivated (whatever the procedure), how do I then regulate the room temperature? Only by adjusting the flow or return water temperature of the heating system?
I would like to keep the weather-compensated control (is that possible?). Then I guess I would have to adjust the rest theoretically via the heating curve, right? How does that work?
It would be great if some experts here could offer me a bit of guidance.
Golfi90 schrieb:
I thought this might increase the flow rate.And what would be the purpose? You will have a standard UPM3 15-75 pump controlled via PWM. The signal comes from the heating system. You can (and must) not change anything there. Without the correct signal, the pump won’t run, and the heating system decides how fast it should operate. There is no need to adjust or configure anything.
D
Daniel-Sp18 Oct 2020 13:06The high flow rate I repeatedly recommend for systems with heat pumps cannot be applied to your gas heating system. Therefore, as long as it gets warm, everything is fine, and you don’t need a higher flow rate.
[Roughly, it goes like this:
Turn off the heating system.
Open all Taco valves (balancing valves) fully.
Run the system 24 hours.
At this point, all rooms will probably be too warm.
Now, gradually lower the heating curve in the smallest steps.
Wait 24 hours.
Repeat this process until the first room becomes too cold.
Then, in the rooms that are still too warm, reduce the flow incrementally using the Taco valves until the temperature is correct.
Adjust only one room at a time and wait 24 hours after each change.
Warning: Each adjustment affects all other rooms to some extent, so document each step and check all rooms carefully.
CAUTION: Solar gains can distort the results.
Therefore, perform this procedure only under overcast skies and wait for low outdoor temperatures to ensure the heating system is running continuously.]
I am currently performing the hydraulic balancing as well, but did you forget in your instructions to set the heat pump circulation pump (HUP) to maximum output (100%) and only switch it back to automatic mode after completing the hydraulic balancing? Otherwise, doesn’t the automatic control of the HUP distort the heat distribution among the rooms?
Turn off the heating system.
Open all Taco valves (balancing valves) fully.
Run the system 24 hours.
At this point, all rooms will probably be too warm.
Now, gradually lower the heating curve in the smallest steps.
Wait 24 hours.
Repeat this process until the first room becomes too cold.
Then, in the rooms that are still too warm, reduce the flow incrementally using the Taco valves until the temperature is correct.
Adjust only one room at a time and wait 24 hours after each change.
Warning: Each adjustment affects all other rooms to some extent, so document each step and check all rooms carefully.
CAUTION: Solar gains can distort the results.
Therefore, perform this procedure only under overcast skies and wait for low outdoor temperatures to ensure the heating system is running continuously.]
I am currently performing the hydraulic balancing as well, but did you forget in your instructions to set the heat pump circulation pump (HUP) to maximum output (100%) and only switch it back to automatic mode after completing the hydraulic balancing? Otherwise, doesn’t the automatic control of the HUP distort the heat distribution among the rooms?
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