ᐅ Should the hydraulic balancing and individual room control be deactivated?
Created on: 6 Oct 2020 12:15
G
Golfi90
Hello everyone!
Since the heating season is slowly but surely starting again, I would like to begin adjusting our heating system (Viessmann Vitodens 200W 13 kW).
We built to KFW 55 standard with underfloor heating.
I keep reading about the hydraulic balancing. I would like to check and possibly readjust it!
Our heating technician was very committed… but not much more than that! That’s why I want to check everything myself.
How do I readjust the hydraulic balancing?
I set all room thermostats to full power (room temperature to 30°C (86°F) for example) and then check the “sight glasses” on the manifold to bring all flows to the same level, or am I misunderstanding something?
Since we have a weather-compensated system, does that affect anything?
If the balancing is correctly adjusted, what should I do next?
I would like to deactivate the ERR (electric radiator valves). How do I do that? Can I simply unplug the motors? Would they then be fully open?
If the ERR is deactivated (whatever the procedure), how do I then regulate the room temperature? Only by adjusting the flow or return water temperature of the heating system?
I would like to keep the weather-compensated control (is that possible?). Then I guess I would have to adjust the rest theoretically via the heating curve, right? How does that work?
It would be great if some experts here could offer me a bit of guidance.
Since the heating season is slowly but surely starting again, I would like to begin adjusting our heating system (Viessmann Vitodens 200W 13 kW).
We built to KFW 55 standard with underfloor heating.
I keep reading about the hydraulic balancing. I would like to check and possibly readjust it!
Our heating technician was very committed… but not much more than that! That’s why I want to check everything myself.
How do I readjust the hydraulic balancing?
I set all room thermostats to full power (room temperature to 30°C (86°F) for example) and then check the “sight glasses” on the manifold to bring all flows to the same level, or am I misunderstanding something?
Since we have a weather-compensated system, does that affect anything?
If the balancing is correctly adjusted, what should I do next?
I would like to deactivate the ERR (electric radiator valves). How do I do that? Can I simply unplug the motors? Would they then be fully open?
If the ERR is deactivated (whatever the procedure), how do I then regulate the room temperature? Only by adjusting the flow or return water temperature of the heating system?
I would like to keep the weather-compensated control (is that possible?). Then I guess I would have to adjust the rest theoretically via the heating curve, right? How does that work?
It would be great if some experts here could offer me a bit of guidance.
Oh man, I’d better not say anything about this...
When the red ring is visible, the motors are off. However, they may still have power. To avoid unnecessary power consumption, you can disconnect the entire wiring later. But it’s best to have someone do this who is authorized to do so. Electricity is deadly.
Get these calculations from him or check your house documents—hopefully, you were given them.
Otherwise, prepare for a lot of work and possibly cold or hot rooms until everything is running smoothly again.
When the red ring is visible, the motors are off. However, they may still have power. To avoid unnecessary power consumption, you can disconnect the entire wiring later. But it’s best to have someone do this who is authorized to do so. Electricity is deadly.
Golfi90 schrieb:Yes, of course. The system calculations, including the corresponding flow rates, are part of his responsibilities (or he must involve someone who can do this if he can’t). Without these, the system simply won’t function, and I assume you ordered and paid for a working heating system.
Are there any calculations he would need for this?
Get these calculations from him or check your house documents—hopefully, you were given them.
Otherwise, prepare for a lot of work and possibly cold or hot rooms until everything is running smoothly again.
T
T_im_Norden17 Oct 2020 17:00Do you only have 6 heating circuits?
The goal is not to set all the controllers to the same value.
It is about providing each room with exactly the amount of flow needed to reach the desired temperature.
Here’s a rough approach:
Turn off the electric radiator (Err).
Turn all Taco valves fully open.
Set the curve to 24.
Now, most likely all rooms will be too warm.
Gradually lower the heating curve, but only in the smallest increments.
Wait 24 hours.
Repeat this process until the first room becomes too cold.
Then, in the rooms that are still too warm, reduce the flow via the Taco valves in very small steps until the temperature is correct.
Only adjust one room at a time and wait 24 hours after each change.
Caution: Each adjustment affects the other rooms to varying degrees, so document every step and check all rooms carefully.
WARNING: Solar gains can distort the results.
Therefore, perform this process only under overcast skies and when outdoor temperatures are low enough to keep the heating running.
The goal is not to set all the controllers to the same value.
It is about providing each room with exactly the amount of flow needed to reach the desired temperature.
Here’s a rough approach:
Turn off the electric radiator (Err).
Turn all Taco valves fully open.
Set the curve to 24.
Now, most likely all rooms will be too warm.
Gradually lower the heating curve, but only in the smallest increments.
Wait 24 hours.
Repeat this process until the first room becomes too cold.
Then, in the rooms that are still too warm, reduce the flow via the Taco valves in very small steps until the temperature is correct.
Only adjust one room at a time and wait 24 hours after each change.
Caution: Each adjustment affects the other rooms to varying degrees, so document every step and check all rooms carefully.
WARNING: Solar gains can distort the results.
Therefore, perform this process only under overcast skies and when outdoor temperatures are low enough to keep the heating running.
No, I have 12 heating circuits.
I have attached photos of two manifold units.
Our whole house was too hot and too cold at the same time this spring (when we moved in).
The heating curve on the system was set to maximum, with supply temperatures all over the place...
So I can say for sure, no matter how the thermostatic valves were set... It was definitely not correct.
That’s why I prefer to adjust the heating myself.
I did the same with the ceiling outlets of the mechanical ventilation with heat recovery. That way, I know everything is set up correctly.
Now I know how to proceed! I’ll adjust the individual rooms solely by controlling the flow rate.
If the room should be warmer, I will increase the flow. If it should be cooler, I will reduce the flow.
I will leave the heating curve as it is for now...
I have attached photos of two manifold units.
Our whole house was too hot and too cold at the same time this spring (when we moved in).
The heating curve on the system was set to maximum, with supply temperatures all over the place...
So I can say for sure, no matter how the thermostatic valves were set... It was definitely not correct.
That’s why I prefer to adjust the heating myself.
I did the same with the ceiling outlets of the mechanical ventilation with heat recovery. That way, I know everything is set up correctly.
Now I know how to proceed! I’ll adjust the individual rooms solely by controlling the flow rate.
If the room should be warmer, I will increase the flow. If it should be cooler, I will reduce the flow.
I will leave the heating curve as it is for now...
T
T_im_Norden17 Oct 2020 17:14That is not what I wrote!
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