Hello everyone,
we would like to carry out the following work in the kitchen of a ground-floor old building flat:
-remove the current floor (tiles)
-insulate the floor (since it is on the ground floor with a cold basement below)
-install underfloor heating
-lay a new floor covering.
Which type of floor covering would you recommend? It would be great if it is a durable floor covering and one that is resistant to stains and dirt.
On the current floor, there are some stains that no longer come out.
The floor should definitely also be compatible with the underfloor heating.
Thank you very much in advance,
we would like to carry out the following work in the kitchen of a ground-floor old building flat:
-remove the current floor (tiles)
-insulate the floor (since it is on the ground floor with a cold basement below)
-install underfloor heating
-lay a new floor covering.
Which type of floor covering would you recommend? It would be great if it is a durable floor covering and one that is resistant to stains and dirt.
On the current floor, there are some stains that no longer come out.
The floor should definitely also be compatible with the underfloor heating.
Thank you very much in advance,
Is this your apartment and the basement underneath as well? I would rather insulate the basement ceiling, otherwise you lose a lot of headroom in the living space.
I would recommend new tiles in the kitchen. But basically, any other type of flooring would also be possible. The stains usually occur only if staining liquids have a long time to act. However, this can discolor any flooring, except maybe glass.
I would recommend new tiles in the kitchen. But basically, any other type of flooring would also be possible. The stains usually occur only if staining liquids have a long time to act. However, this can discolor any flooring, except maybe glass.
@Axel900:
In principle, any type of flooring can be damaged, but also stained—whether it’s carpet, elastomer flooring, or even an industrial resin coating.
Regarding thermal insulation: what "Tolentino" suggested—installing the insulation (as it should be) on the cold side—is the best solution.
Anything related to "internal insulation" must be carefully calculated to avoid bringing the dew point into your living room (not a joke!).
Even if insulation is possible in the basement level, simply removing the tiles will not provide the necessary height for the warm water underfloor heating. For a code-compliant installation, you will need about 55 to 60mm (2 to 2¼ inches) for the heating screed plus around 5 to 7 cm (2 to 2¾ inches) for the thermal insulation (this needs to be calculated based on the specific project data). That means a total buildup height of around 10 to 13 cm (4 to 5 inches) plus the floor covering and leveling compound.
If this buildup height is not available, you need to carefully consider every option for gaining or saving height.
Keep in mind:
Trying to achieve the desired construction purely through impulsive actions without expertise can result in total failure of the floor structure—and similarly damage your budget...
But let’s stay optimistic!
------------------
Good luck: KlaRa
In principle, any type of flooring can be damaged, but also stained—whether it’s carpet, elastomer flooring, or even an industrial resin coating.
Regarding thermal insulation: what "Tolentino" suggested—installing the insulation (as it should be) on the cold side—is the best solution.
Anything related to "internal insulation" must be carefully calculated to avoid bringing the dew point into your living room (not a joke!).
Even if insulation is possible in the basement level, simply removing the tiles will not provide the necessary height for the warm water underfloor heating. For a code-compliant installation, you will need about 55 to 60mm (2 to 2¼ inches) for the heating screed plus around 5 to 7 cm (2 to 2¾ inches) for the thermal insulation (this needs to be calculated based on the specific project data). That means a total buildup height of around 10 to 13 cm (4 to 5 inches) plus the floor covering and leveling compound.
If this buildup height is not available, you need to carefully consider every option for gaining or saving height.
Keep in mind:
Trying to achieve the desired construction purely through impulsive actions without expertise can result in total failure of the floor structure—and similarly damage your budget...
But let’s stay optimistic!
------------------
Good luck: KlaRa
I believe that old buildings always call for wood. I may be biased. However, a kitchen with heavy, long wooden floorboards is durable, looks great, can last for many decades more with sanding, and creates a wonderful indoor climate. Scratches and dents can be frustrating, but over the years they actually add to the room’s character.
@KlaRa A professional came today and confirmed the same. He advised against installing a traditional underfloor heating system (which in our case would be connected to the district heating) and recommended an electric one instead. What is your opinion on this? I have some concerns about the high electricity costs, but we would keep our radiators (relatively small for an approximately 20m2 (215 sq ft) kitchen with 3.60m (12 ft) high ceilings) as additional heating.
@HausiKlausi I personally like wooden floorboards too, but the rest of the apartment (owner-occupied) already has old parquet, and I think I wouldn’t like how it looks if there were different types of wood flooring everywhere.
@HausiKlausi I personally like wooden floorboards too, but the rest of the apartment (owner-occupied) already has old parquet, and I think I wouldn’t like how it looks if there were different types of wood flooring everywhere.
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