ᐅ Base platform for washing machine and dryer in the basement, DIY
Created on: 12 Apr 2012 08:42
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WolverineW
Wolverine12 Apr 2012 08:42Hello,
I am currently planning to build a base for my washing machine and dryer in my basement.
I would like to construct this base using aerated concrete blocks (Ytong). The blocks should be arranged in a U-shape to create an additional shelf below the washing machine. I plan to screw a 3cm (1¼ inch) thick chipboard or kitchen countertop onto the aerated concrete blocks, which will be plastered or skim-coated afterward.
What do you think? Is this a feasible approach?
More importantly, do I need to decouple the frame from anything? I was thinking of using edge strips, like those used when installing a screed. I would place these strips between the aerated concrete blocks and the house wall.
I assume the floor does not need decoupling, right? Also, this way I can better bond the base to the building’s foundation slab.
Thank you very much.
I am currently planning to build a base for my washing machine and dryer in my basement.
I would like to construct this base using aerated concrete blocks (Ytong). The blocks should be arranged in a U-shape to create an additional shelf below the washing machine. I plan to screw a 3cm (1¼ inch) thick chipboard or kitchen countertop onto the aerated concrete blocks, which will be plastered or skim-coated afterward.
What do you think? Is this a feasible approach?
More importantly, do I need to decouple the frame from anything? I was thinking of using edge strips, like those used when installing a screed. I would place these strips between the aerated concrete blocks and the house wall.
I assume the floor does not need decoupling, right? Also, this way I can better bond the base to the building’s foundation slab.
Thank you very much.
Hello!
Is this still common practice? It probably doesn’t cause any harm.
But has the whole thing been thought through? The edge strip along the wall isn’t necessary since the structure is built with masonry and not poured concrete. The base should already have a 15cm (6 inches) clearance from the wall for plumbing and wiring anyway.
Adding a decoupling layer under the wooden board won’t hurt, but
- why place a platform under the machine; do you like crawling around on the floor?
- if the device tends to move, I would also secure the board with battens to prevent it from sliding off – it could be quite a fall otherwise.
Best regards,
TomTom1
Is this still common practice? It probably doesn’t cause any harm.
But has the whole thing been thought through? The edge strip along the wall isn’t necessary since the structure is built with masonry and not poured concrete. The base should already have a 15cm (6 inches) clearance from the wall for plumbing and wiring anyway.
Adding a decoupling layer under the wooden board won’t hurt, but
- why place a platform under the machine; do you like crawling around on the floor?
- if the device tends to move, I would also secure the board with battens to prevent it from sliding off – it could be quite a fall otherwise.
Best regards,
TomTom1
W
Wolverine12 Apr 2012 12:34The water supply and drainage come from above, not from below. This is also one of the reasons for raising the height, so the washing machine doesn’t have to pump water up too high.
It makes sense to only decouple the wooden board. The rest seems unnecessary to me.
The shelf under the machine is mainly for placing the laundry basket underneath.
Our machine hasn’t moved so far. However, you can definitely install some small protection as a precaution.
What is your opinion on the kitchen countertop? I am a bit concerned that it might swell due to the higher humidity in the basement.
It makes sense to only decouple the wooden board. The rest seems unnecessary to me.
The shelf under the machine is mainly for placing the laundry basket underneath.
Our machine hasn’t moved so far. However, you can definitely install some small protection as a precaution.
What is your opinion on the kitchen countertop? I am a bit concerned that it might swell due to the higher humidity in the basement.
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perlenmann13 Apr 2012 07:29Hello,
I have a solid platform, probably filled with rubbish or debris.
But if you want a compartment underneath, there are metal platforms with drawers available at hardware stores. Before I started building with masonry and then putting a kitchen countertop on top, I would go with the platform.
I have a solid platform, probably filled with rubbish or debris.
But if you want a compartment underneath, there are metal platforms with drawers available at hardware stores. Before I started building with masonry and then putting a kitchen countertop on top, I would go with the platform.
N
Neubau201316 Apr 2012 22:47My suggestion (which I have successfully implemented several times):
Use sand-lime bricks (2 DF) to build three pillars (left, center, right) at the appropriate spacing. I would recommend a platform length of 2 machines + 20 cm (8 inches). Wood is not an option for me. Better to use box lintels as a cover: much greater mass means vibrations are less likely to be transmitted quickly. Wood will always creak and rot….
Use sand-lime bricks (2 DF) to build three pillars (left, center, right) at the appropriate spacing. I would recommend a platform length of 2 machines + 20 cm (8 inches). Wood is not an option for me. Better to use box lintels as a cover: much greater mass means vibrations are less likely to be transmitted quickly. Wood will always creak and rot….
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