Hello everyone,
I currently live in an old building with only minimal insulation.
The U-value of the façade is 0.965 W/(m²K).
Now, my house has many very large window areas; the south side is almost entirely windows, both at the top and bottom. These windows will naturally be expensive, and I could only get financial support if I use triple glazing.
However, these new windows mostly have a lower U-value: between 0.81 and 0.93. Is there a high risk of mold developing in this case? Would it be better to choose double-glazed windows instead?
I currently live in an old building with only minimal insulation.
The U-value of the façade is 0.965 W/(m²K).
Now, my house has many very large window areas; the south side is almost entirely windows, both at the top and bottom. These windows will naturally be expensive, and I could only get financial support if I use triple glazing.
However, these new windows mostly have a lower U-value: between 0.81 and 0.93. Is there a high risk of mold developing in this case? Would it be better to choose double-glazed windows instead?
WilderSueden schrieb:
You forgot to heat properly.
If you have cold walls and air temperature of only 20°C (68°F), everything will condense on the walls. This can especially be an issue in the bedroom, since it’s usually heated less.Thanks, so that means even if the hygrometer shows a good humidity level, for example 40%, mold can still develop?
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Benutzer20023 Mar 2022 16:56taskyyy schrieb:
Thanks, so that means even if the hygrometer shows a good humidity level, for example 40%, mold can still develop?At 40% humidity and 20 degrees Celsius (68°F), the dew point is around 6 degrees Celsius (43°F) – so the surface of your external wall should be warmer than that. Reaching 6 degrees Celsius (43°F) at the surface is already quite difficult, even in older buildings. At 60% (two people in the bedroom and the door closed) and 18 degrees Celsius (64°F), the dew point is just over 10 degrees Celsius (50°F).You can calculate this yourself online.
WilderSueden schrieb:
This can especially be a problem in the bedroom since it’s usually not heated as much there.Is that really the case? I usually keep it around 20-21 degrees Celsius (68-70°F), and also use a 30-degree Celsius (86°F) waterbed. You don’t have to sleep in a cold room – 18-20 degrees Celsius (64-68°F) is completely fine.W
WilderSueden23 Mar 2022 17:16We have a corner with the problem that a cantilevered concrete part of the balcony draws in cold air, which then causes dampness. I don’t want to cause unnecessary alarm—at 40% humidity, this isn’t a major issue—but you first need to get the humidity down to that level. I find ventilating during calm weather (Lake Constance area = still air zone) quite difficult. There is simply not enough air exchange, even when we ventilate throughout the whole apartment by creating a draft (the bedroom only has windows on one side).
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Bauenaberwie23 Mar 2022 17:49taskyyy schrieb:
Hello everyone,
I currently have an older building with only minimal insulation.
The facade’s U-value is 0.965 W/(m²K).
Now, my house features many very large window areas; the south side is almost entirely windows, both at the top and bottom. These windows will naturally be very expensive, and only with triple glazing could I qualify for a subsidy.
However, these new windows mostly have a lower U-value: 0.81 to 0.93. Is there a high risk of mold developing here? Would it be better to choose double-glazed windows instead? I would advise anyone replacing windows in an existing property to always ensure adequate ventilation. Everything else simply won’t work. We currently have a well-insulated apartment built in 1999, and in winter we need to air out at least 4-5 times a day. This is really annoying, especially when it’s windy and the doors slam or things get blown around! So don’t skimp on something as simple as that. There are windows with integrated vents (trickle vents); maybe that could be an option. However, I don’t have any experience with those.
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