Hello everyone!
I am planning to convert an old utility building next to my house into a garage. The exterior walls and the ring foundation will remain as they are. Only new openings for garage doors will be made, and the floor needs to be redone.
And that’s exactly what I need advice on: the correct floor construction.
1) From bottom to top:
Paper / foil as a moisture barrier
Concrete slab
Insulation
Floating screed
2) From bottom to top:
Concrete slab
Foil against groundwater
Insulation
Floating screed
3) Or a completely different approach?
I would appreciate a short, helpful answer.
Also, regarding insulation: what do you recommend? What thickness makes sense, and at what point is it just a waste of money? (The garage will be heated).
Thank you!
I am planning to convert an old utility building next to my house into a garage. The exterior walls and the ring foundation will remain as they are. Only new openings for garage doors will be made, and the floor needs to be redone.
And that’s exactly what I need advice on: the correct floor construction.
1) From bottom to top:
Paper / foil as a moisture barrier
Concrete slab
Insulation
Floating screed
2) From bottom to top:
Concrete slab
Foil against groundwater
Insulation
Floating screed
3) Or a completely different approach?
I would appreciate a short, helpful answer.
Also, regarding insulation: what do you recommend? What thickness makes sense, and at what point is it just a waste of money? (The garage will be heated).
Thank you!
nms-Georg schrieb:
Thank you.
So, underfloor heating is not necessary, so that’s off the table.
The rest sounds good. That’s actually how I had originally planned it. Until I heard that a 10 or 15 cm (4 or 6 inches) thick concrete layer (the slab) can’t be finished as smoothly as screed concrete. That’s why the screed layer is supposed to go on top...It’s not necessary. In our laundry room, we also skipped the screed; the concrete can be smoothed quite well. You just need to measure the heights properly beforehand and set up timber guides for screeding. A concrete vibrator is also very helpful. We poured about 40 square meters (430 square feet) and then tiled without any issues.
Hello
I consider a gas heating system to be the worst option.
It is noisy, and the exhaust gases remain inside the room, which also causes a significant amount of moisture.
If there is already a water-based heating system in the room, the cost for a few meters of underfloor heating pipe is negligible.
Olli
I consider a gas heating system to be the worst option.
It is noisy, and the exhaust gases remain inside the room, which also causes a significant amount of moisture.
If there is already a water-based heating system in the room, the cost for a few meters of underfloor heating pipe is negligible.
Olli
N
nms-georg9 Mar 2019 16:45The heating would indeed be in the adjacent room. However, I still have two XXL radiators (quite large) left over. I will install them instead of the underfloor heating.
So, I have spoken with the first screed contractor. His suggestion:
12cm (5 inches) base layer (treated on top with some kind of hard granulate)
5cm (2 inches) XPS
Foil / roofing felt
The next contractor is scheduled for Monday. Let’s see what he says...
So, I have spoken with the first screed contractor. His suggestion:
12cm (5 inches) base layer (treated on top with some kind of hard granulate)
5cm (2 inches) XPS
Foil / roofing felt
The next contractor is scheduled for Monday. Let’s see what he says...
M_Neubauer15 Mar 2019 06:51hampshire schrieb:
For me, a low-end solution would be sufficient. Level the floor slightly if needed and install plastic PVC panels where the cars are parked and in the workshop area. When it gets cold: gas burner heating.
Of course, the solution suggested by Olli is better. Same opinion! I have been using PVC panels for my garage floor for years without any problems.
E
eleheller196416 Mar 2019 06:29M_Neubauer schrieb:
Same opinion! I have been using PVC tiles for my garage floor for years without any problems.Hello Mr. Neubauer,
Three years ago, we sealed our garage floor with a resin coating. Unfortunately, tire marks are visible in the area where the car is always parked. Have you experienced the same issue with the tiles? I can’t imagine how the tiles protect the floor. Doesn’t water get through the joints? Our concrete floor is C25/30.
M_Neubauer18 Mar 2019 06:35eleheller1964 schrieb:
Hello Mr. Neubauer,
Three years ago, we sealed our garage floor with a resin coating. Unfortunately, tire marks are visible where the car is always parked. Are you experiencing the same issue with the floor slabs? I can’t imagine how the slabs are supposed to protect the floor. Doesn’t water seep through the joint? Our concrete floor is C25/30. We regularly park one motorcycle and two cars in the garage. After more than a year, no marks have appeared so far. However, the surface seems very sturdy. Caution!: According to the contractor, the coating must be fully glued down; otherwise, water will penetrate through the loose joints. For our 50m² (540ft²) garage, we received a total of three quotes from four companies, ranging from €1500.00 to €6000.00. So it definitely pays off to compare!
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