ᐅ Semi-detached house – Which type is best? Does anyone have experience with this?
Created on: 8 Oct 2018 11:18
D
Dirk78
Hello everyone,
I am currently considering building a duplex and am looking for ideas on how it could or should be constructed to ensure a sustainable building in the long term. Of course, it also has to remain affordable.
On the internet and from building planners, you often hear that "this particular method" is the best, depending on the preferences of the contact person. Perhaps someone here can share how they built theirs or what could be done better or differently, so I can get a clearer picture for myself.
Thanks in advance to everyone who takes the time to help!
Best regards,
Dirk78
I am currently considering building a duplex and am looking for ideas on how it could or should be constructed to ensure a sustainable building in the long term. Of course, it also has to remain affordable.
On the internet and from building planners, you often hear that "this particular method" is the best, depending on the preferences of the contact person. Perhaps someone here can share how they built theirs or what could be done better or differently, so I can get a clearer picture for myself.
Thanks in advance to everyone who takes the time to help!
Best regards,
Dirk78
For the Passive House standard—meaning no conventional heating system, only a ventilation system with additional supply air heating—there are no fixed required U-values. Unlike all KfW efficiency house standards, a fixed value must be met here: a maximum heating load of 15 W/m² under design conditions (outdoor temperature between -10 and -16°C (14 and 3°F), depending on the region). All other standards from the Energy Saving Ordinance and KfW are based solely on technical equipment, such as individual building components, thermal bridges, and system technology.
The Passive House standard is also the only one with a solid physical basis, making factors like building volume, orientation, and window areas crucial.
Because heat is supplied via the room’s incoming air, at a maximum still comfortable air exchange rate and an acceptable supply air temperature (I do not recall the exact values), no more than 15 W per m² of usable energy area can be heated. Otherwise, a water-based heating system would be needed, and it would no longer be a “Passive House.”
The U-value of the floor slab plays a rather minor role, especially without underfloor heating, due to the equivalent U-value for ground-contact components (factor 0.4). Much more important are reducing thermal bridges, the glazed area and its orientation, heat storage within the building to minimize peak loads, as well as location and building volume. With smart planning, energy demand can be reduced most sustainably even without additional material use—also in non-Passive House buildings.
The Passive House standard is also the only one with a solid physical basis, making factors like building volume, orientation, and window areas crucial.
Because heat is supplied via the room’s incoming air, at a maximum still comfortable air exchange rate and an acceptable supply air temperature (I do not recall the exact values), no more than 15 W per m² of usable energy area can be heated. Otherwise, a water-based heating system would be needed, and it would no longer be a “Passive House.”
The U-value of the floor slab plays a rather minor role, especially without underfloor heating, due to the equivalent U-value for ground-contact components (factor 0.4). Much more important are reducing thermal bridges, the glazed area and its orientation, heat storage within the building to minimize peak loads, as well as location and building volume. With smart planning, energy demand can be reduced most sustainably even without additional material use—also in non-Passive House buildings.
That's it ... it should be a passive house with a ventilation system that includes additional supply air heating.
A foundation without a screed (and without underfloor heating) with Foamglas seems reasonable to me. Can anyone comment on the issue of impact sound insulation?
And are 100mm (4 inches) of concrete better or worse than 60-70mm (2.5-3 inches) of screed?
Which walls and windows/doors are suitable for such a house?
If I am on the wrong track, please stop me.
A foundation without a screed (and without underfloor heating) with Foamglas seems reasonable to me. Can anyone comment on the issue of impact sound insulation?
And are 100mm (4 inches) of concrete better or worse than 60-70mm (2.5-3 inches) of screed?
Which walls and windows/doors are suitable for such a house?
If I am on the wrong track, please stop me.
DirkB schrieb:
That’s it ... it’s going to be a passive house with a ventilation system and additional supply air heatingYou only have 400,000 for everything, excluding the land. With that budget, building a passive house is not feasible.
dertill schrieb:
Maximum heating load of 15 W/m² under design conditions (-10 to -16°C (14 to 3°F) outdoor temperature depending on region).I need to correct myself here: It’s actually 10 W/m² heating load and 15 kWh/m² annually – just to make sure this doesn’t get misunderstood anywhere.
Regarding building components and insulation values for passive houses, all search engines can help you very well, and many manufacturers especially for windows offer a dedicated product line for this.
But as already mentioned: Technology isn’t everything in a passive house! Detailed planning and room layout are just as important.
I wouldn’t categorically say that $400,000 isn’t enough for a passive house – it just means it will be smaller.
A semi-detached house built to passive house standards will not fit the budget. More likely a single half of a semi-detached house.
Orientation towards the sun.
Few windows on the north side.
Minimize exterior surface area; therefore, a square shape is practical and efficient. Simple, rectangular or square form.
Shading from neighboring buildings.
Orientation towards the sun.
Few windows on the north side.
Minimize exterior surface area; therefore, a square shape is practical and efficient. Simple, rectangular or square form.
Shading from neighboring buildings.
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