S
Sebastian18 Jun 2009 12:24Hello
we want to insulate our roof ourselves. We have a few questions.
1. What materials are needed, and what is the typical roof construction (from outside to inside)?
2. Which type of insulation wool should be used if we plan to convert the attic into a room later? There are different thicknesses and some have aluminum foil on the back, while others do not.
3. How much did it roughly cost you? We need to insulate about 223m² (roof area to be insulated).
Best regards
we want to insulate our roof ourselves. We have a few questions.
1. What materials are needed, and what is the typical roof construction (from outside to inside)?
2. Which type of insulation wool should be used if we plan to convert the attic into a room later? There are different thicknesses and some have aluminum foil on the back, while others do not.
3. How much did it roughly cost you? We need to insulate about 223m² (roof area to be insulated).
Best regards
Hello Sebastian,
The design of a roof depends partly on the preferences of the homeowner and partly on the associated costs.
If the homeowner is more environmentally conscious, a different approach is chosen (possibly using Isofloc insulation) than if they are looking for a more cost-effective solution.
Another option is continuous insulation above the rafters with visible rafters on the inside, which is usually more expensive than the standard solution.
For a self-build project, I would most likely recommend a standard solution that is relatively easy to install and promises a high insulation value. This setup has been used by most of my clients.
The construction from outside to inside:
1. Roof tiles, preferable to concrete roof tiles
2. Roof battens 3/5 cm (1.2/2 inches)
3. Counter battens 3/5 cm (1.2/2 inches)
4. Breathable underlay membrane
5. Rafters according to structural specifications (usually 8/16 cm (3/6 inches)) with glass wool or mineral wool insulation in between, e.g., 16.0 cm (6.3 inches) insulation batts
6. Cross battens 4/6 cm (1.6/2.4 inches) with 4.0 cm (1.6 inches) additional insulation between them
7. Vapor barrier foil—here, it is crucial to ensure airtight connections between each other and all adjoining components (proper adhesion)! Otherwise, there is a risk of mold growth.
8. Counter battens 2.4/4.8 cm (1/2 inches) or similar as support battens for
9. Plasterboard 1.25 cm (0.5 inches)
10. Wallpaper of your choice
This roof construction has a total insulation thickness of 20.0 cm (7.9 inches). If possible, fit roof windows on the south side with roller shutters.
In the area of the collar beams or wall plates, instead of parts 1–4, use tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of 2.2 cm (0.9 inches).
If you take this information to your building materials supplier and tell them the area you need to cover, they will likely be able to provide a detailed offer for the materials required.
This way, you will know exactly how much the materials will cost.
I hope this has been helpful to you.
The design of a roof depends partly on the preferences of the homeowner and partly on the associated costs.
If the homeowner is more environmentally conscious, a different approach is chosen (possibly using Isofloc insulation) than if they are looking for a more cost-effective solution.
Another option is continuous insulation above the rafters with visible rafters on the inside, which is usually more expensive than the standard solution.
For a self-build project, I would most likely recommend a standard solution that is relatively easy to install and promises a high insulation value. This setup has been used by most of my clients.
The construction from outside to inside:
1. Roof tiles, preferable to concrete roof tiles
2. Roof battens 3/5 cm (1.2/2 inches)
3. Counter battens 3/5 cm (1.2/2 inches)
4. Breathable underlay membrane
5. Rafters according to structural specifications (usually 8/16 cm (3/6 inches)) with glass wool or mineral wool insulation in between, e.g., 16.0 cm (6.3 inches) insulation batts
6. Cross battens 4/6 cm (1.6/2.4 inches) with 4.0 cm (1.6 inches) additional insulation between them
7. Vapor barrier foil—here, it is crucial to ensure airtight connections between each other and all adjoining components (proper adhesion)! Otherwise, there is a risk of mold growth.
8. Counter battens 2.4/4.8 cm (1/2 inches) or similar as support battens for
9. Plasterboard 1.25 cm (0.5 inches)
10. Wallpaper of your choice
This roof construction has a total insulation thickness of 20.0 cm (7.9 inches). If possible, fit roof windows on the south side with roller shutters.
In the area of the collar beams or wall plates, instead of parts 1–4, use tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of 2.2 cm (0.9 inches).
If you take this information to your building materials supplier and tell them the area you need to cover, they will likely be able to provide a detailed offer for the materials required.
This way, you will know exactly how much the materials will cost.
I hope this has been helpful to you.
S
Sebastian24 Jun 2009 10:24Hey Danton
Thank you very much for your great contribution! It was very helpful to me!
All I can say is that I have no further questions
THANK YOU!
Thank you very much for your great contribution! It was very helpful to me!
All I can say is that I have no further questions
THANK YOU!
Hello Sebastian,
I am a bit surprised that no one has answered your question(s) so far.
In my opinion, this is mainly due to the way you have phrased your inquiry.
In a time when "being thrifty is still seen as cool," no one is likely to easily tell you that converting an attic is not only one of the more challenging construction tasks but can also be quite expensive.
At least if the work is to be properly planned, executed, and inspected. This is important because there is a high probability that public building regulations will come into play.
This primarily concerns compliance with the state building code and the energy-saving regulations.
Providing even a rough estimate for your energy retrofit case is hardly possible given the rather limited information provided here.
My advice: Find a knowledgeable building energy consultant and commission an on-site consultation. Pay special attention to details like thermal bridges and airtightness to achieve the most holistic and future-proof assessment of your house’s energy upgrade needs.
From this, you can also derive which coordinated individual measures make sense and what costs you can expect. In this context, advice on possible funding opportunities is also important...
Best regards from Erfurt
KPS
I am a bit surprised that no one has answered your question(s) so far.
In my opinion, this is mainly due to the way you have phrased your inquiry.
In a time when "being thrifty is still seen as cool," no one is likely to easily tell you that converting an attic is not only one of the more challenging construction tasks but can also be quite expensive.
At least if the work is to be properly planned, executed, and inspected. This is important because there is a high probability that public building regulations will come into play.
This primarily concerns compliance with the state building code and the energy-saving regulations.
Providing even a rough estimate for your energy retrofit case is hardly possible given the rather limited information provided here.
My advice: Find a knowledgeable building energy consultant and commission an on-site consultation. Pay special attention to details like thermal bridges and airtightness to achieve the most holistic and future-proof assessment of your house’s energy upgrade needs.
From this, you can also derive which coordinated individual measures make sense and what costs you can expect. In this context, advice on possible funding opportunities is also important...
Best regards from Erfurt
KPS
S
Sebastian18 Dec 2009 15:01Hello KPS
On one hand, my question is exactly six months old, and on the other, Danton’s answer was actually sufficient for me.
It’s not correct to say that no one is responding to my questions, since there is already one answer.
Whether attic conversion is one of the more expensive trades ... sure, it costs something, but nothing comes for free. If you have been careful and thoughtful with your financing, I don’t think it should be a problem ;o)
Now, I wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
On one hand, my question is exactly six months old, and on the other, Danton’s answer was actually sufficient for me.
It’s not correct to say that no one is responding to my questions, since there is already one answer.
Whether attic conversion is one of the more expensive trades ... sure, it costs something, but nothing comes for free. If you have been careful and thoughtful with your financing, I don’t think it should be a problem ;o)
Now, I wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
Hello homebuilders,
if you really want an exposed roof structure, it will probably only work with exterior roof insulation.
Avoiding thermal bridges can then be reliably achieved. However, compared to insulation between rafters, this option usually involves higher costs and lower sound insulation performance.
Possible alternative solutions (regarding sound and summer heat protection as well as their respective costs) can certainly be presented by the designer.
Kind regards
KPS
if you really want an exposed roof structure, it will probably only work with exterior roof insulation.
Avoiding thermal bridges can then be reliably achieved. However, compared to insulation between rafters, this option usually involves higher costs and lower sound insulation performance.
Possible alternative solutions (regarding sound and summer heat protection as well as their respective costs) can certainly be presented by the designer.
Kind regards
KPS
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