ᐅ Which type of heating system is best when replacing a unit after 36 years?
Created on: 14 Jul 2016 20:26
K
kiswiss
Hello, our newly purchased house currently has an oil heating system installed, which needs to be replaced before we move in.
It is a bungalow with 112 sq m (1206 sq ft). The boiler room is located in the basement. Next to it, there is a welded 4000-liter (1057-gallon) oil tank. Inside the house, there is a two-flue chimney. The previous owners also used a pellet stove in the living room as an additional heat source.
Now I am considering which type of heating system to choose. A gas connection is not possible since there is no gas line available.
My plan was to replace the oil boiler in the basement and additionally install either a water-heated pellet or wood stove in the living room. Possibly solar panels in the next few years as well (although I’m not sure about this yet, as I have often read that the benefits can be limited).
What would you recommend installing? Does it make sense to use a water-heated stove alongside the oil heating system? Or would a simple wood stove for occasional use be better?
It is a bungalow with 112 sq m (1206 sq ft). The boiler room is located in the basement. Next to it, there is a welded 4000-liter (1057-gallon) oil tank. Inside the house, there is a two-flue chimney. The previous owners also used a pellet stove in the living room as an additional heat source.
Now I am considering which type of heating system to choose. A gas connection is not possible since there is no gas line available.
My plan was to replace the oil boiler in the basement and additionally install either a water-heated pellet or wood stove in the living room. Possibly solar panels in the next few years as well (although I’m not sure about this yet, as I have often read that the benefits can be limited).
What would you recommend installing? Does it make sense to use a water-heated stove alongside the oil heating system? Or would a simple wood stove for occasional use be better?
86bibo schrieb:
Regarding your information, something seems off because the energy consumption appears extremely high to me. I have 30,000 kWh per year, You were right, I checked again, 55,000 kWh over 3 years. According to the energy certificate
Then 1000 liters per year should be sufficient, and I would just start by having the heating system replaced and then see how things develop over the next 1–2 years. Solar thermal systems, as mentioned, are more a matter of belief. At present, they usually don’t save much money unless you have a very high demand for hot water. The heating support they provide generally doesn’t offer a huge benefit (although I would still consider it), since most of the energy is generated in the summer when very little heating is needed. Hot water, on the other hand, is usually free in summer (plus water costs).
Could photovoltaic panels be an alternative to solar thermal systems? While they don’t help save on heating costs, they do reduce electricity costs and usually make more financial sense. Whether this is better ecologically is another question.
Could photovoltaic panels be an alternative to solar thermal systems? While they don’t help save on heating costs, they do reduce electricity costs and usually make more financial sense. Whether this is better ecologically is another question.
E
ErikErdgas19 Jul 2016 09:35Hello kiswiss,
Since the energy certificate is based on consumption, it is important to be cautious when interpreting it to avoid misleading conclusions due to the potentially significant impact of user behavior.
A gas heating system with a liquefied petroleum gas (LPG) tank can be an attractive alternative. The specific price varies significantly depending on the region. However, an advantage is the use of conventional system technology, as proven in gas condensing boiler systems.
Replacing the radiators does not necessarily make sense upfront. It would be more reasonable to have a heating load calculation carried out first. This will determine the heating demand of your building and individual rooms, as well as how large the heating surfaces need to be at certain system temperatures. After that, you can assess where adjustments may be necessary.
Best regards, Erik von moderne.heizung
Since the energy certificate is based on consumption, it is important to be cautious when interpreting it to avoid misleading conclusions due to the potentially significant impact of user behavior.
A gas heating system with a liquefied petroleum gas (LPG) tank can be an attractive alternative. The specific price varies significantly depending on the region. However, an advantage is the use of conventional system technology, as proven in gas condensing boiler systems.
Replacing the radiators does not necessarily make sense upfront. It would be more reasonable to have a heating load calculation carried out first. This will determine the heating demand of your building and individual rooms, as well as how large the heating surfaces need to be at certain system temperatures. After that, you can assess where adjustments may be necessary.
Best regards, Erik von moderne.heizung
I’ll join the discussion here.
We have been living since March 2016 in our own semi-detached house from 1972.
Heated area (ground floor/upper floor/attic) is about 135 sqm (1450 sq ft).
Fully basemented (not heated).
Triple-glazed windows with a recent U-value of 0.8* installed.
The roof was insulated and retiled in 2009.
An 8 kW wood stove is located in the living area (ground floor) – living room/dining room/kitchen are all combined in one room.
The front door, with at least the same insulation value as the windows, will be replaced soon.
Heating and hot water, apart from the wood stove (used only for heating) on the ground floor, is provided by the oil boiler, which is in the basement along with the 6000-liter (1585-gallon) tanks.
The oil boiler is still the original, so over 40 years old... but it still works, although it’s far from efficient.
We need to replace it, but I’m thinking we’ll stay with oil since the exterior of the semi-detached house is not insulated.
In mid-January of this year, I refilled 2000 liters (528 gallons) of standard heating oil as the tank gauge was showing zero, meaning it had run empty or almost empty.
As of August 12, 2016, the tank gauge shows about 40 cm (16 inches) left in the 6000-liter (1585-gallon) tank (4 welded 1500-liter (396-gallon) tanks, all visually intact).
We are still getting to know our consumption, but I assume that most of the 2000 liters (528 gallons) will be used up within the first year. (2 adults and 2 children (3 years, 3 years)).
What would you advise me regarding the heating system?
For your information, we live in Baden-Württemberg!
Best regards
We have been living since March 2016 in our own semi-detached house from 1972.
Heated area (ground floor/upper floor/attic) is about 135 sqm (1450 sq ft).
Fully basemented (not heated).
Triple-glazed windows with a recent U-value of 0.8* installed.
The roof was insulated and retiled in 2009.
An 8 kW wood stove is located in the living area (ground floor) – living room/dining room/kitchen are all combined in one room.
The front door, with at least the same insulation value as the windows, will be replaced soon.
Heating and hot water, apart from the wood stove (used only for heating) on the ground floor, is provided by the oil boiler, which is in the basement along with the 6000-liter (1585-gallon) tanks.
The oil boiler is still the original, so over 40 years old... but it still works, although it’s far from efficient.
We need to replace it, but I’m thinking we’ll stay with oil since the exterior of the semi-detached house is not insulated.
In mid-January of this year, I refilled 2000 liters (528 gallons) of standard heating oil as the tank gauge was showing zero, meaning it had run empty or almost empty.
As of August 12, 2016, the tank gauge shows about 40 cm (16 inches) left in the 6000-liter (1585-gallon) tank (4 welded 1500-liter (396-gallon) tanks, all visually intact).
We are still getting to know our consumption, but I assume that most of the 2000 liters (528 gallons) will be used up within the first year. (2 adults and 2 children (3 years, 3 years)).
What would you advise me regarding the heating system?
For your information, we live in Baden-Württemberg!
Best regards
...Edit: Fuel gauge display goes up to a maximum of 200cm (79 inches).
Is the calculation correct?
40cm (16 inches) / 200cm (79 inches) x 6000-liter (1585-gallon) tank capacity = 1200 liters (317 gallons) of heating oil remaining in the tank!
So approximately ± 800 liters (211 gallons) consumed from the refilling date until now!
Is the calculation correct?
40cm (16 inches) / 200cm (79 inches) x 6000-liter (1585-gallon) tank capacity = 1200 liters (317 gallons) of heating oil remaining in the tank!
So approximately ± 800 liters (211 gallons) consumed from the refilling date until now!
Good evening everyone,
I would like to share what has been done so far and ask you another question regarding the heating system.
An oil boiler was installed because there was a sibling oil tank with a capacity of 6,300 liters (1,664 gallons) available, and there is no gas connection.
The house does have full thermal insulation.
What I would like to know now is: what do you think about using fully demineralized water in the heating circuit? My heating technician says it is better for the boiler and the radiators. What bothers me a bit is that every time water needs to be refilled, I have to get it from him.
Does it really make that much of a difference whether fully demineralized or regular water is used?
He also recommended a water softening system.
What would you say about that?
Thanks in advance
I would like to share what has been done so far and ask you another question regarding the heating system.
An oil boiler was installed because there was a sibling oil tank with a capacity of 6,300 liters (1,664 gallons) available, and there is no gas connection.
The house does have full thermal insulation.
What I would like to know now is: what do you think about using fully demineralized water in the heating circuit? My heating technician says it is better for the boiler and the radiators. What bothers me a bit is that every time water needs to be refilled, I have to get it from him.
Does it really make that much of a difference whether fully demineralized or regular water is used?
He also recommended a water softening system.
What would you say about that?
Thanks in advance
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